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Setting an Auger so it idles. Help.


Agronomist_at_IA

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I have done this many times, both with my own augers and for many friends, It is the same process no matter what brand of two stroke motor you are tuning. As mentioned above, I assume your carb is clean and the passages are free of gunk. You cannot adjust a dirty carb with any reliability.

First, start the auger and run it until it is warmed up. Now, the low speed needle is on the left and the high speed is on the right, away from the motor. Get a piece of paper and pencil and then gently turn the low speed needle in until it seats. Record how many turns you turned it. Repeat with the high speed needle. Turning in the needles may loosen any crud that has collected on the needle seat and it gives you a baseline for the next steps.

Now, turn the low speed needle out 1 ¼ turns, and the high speed needle out ¾ turn and start the motor (Note that this is for the Jiffy/Tecumseh motor only. on other motors reset to the turns that you recorded). If it does not keep running turn up the idle screw until it keeps running. With the motor running turn the low speed needle in until you notice a decrease in RPM or roughness, and then back out about 1/8 turn. Re-adjust the idle speed screw to the RPM you want and low speed is done.

To set high speed you really need to be on the ice at temperature but this will get you close. Hold the throttle wide open and turn the high speed needle clockwise until RPM drops, then back it out until it runs a little rough. Your mixture will be a little rich but out in the cold air it will be very close. For fine tuning repeat this process out on the ice. When you get it right you will hear the motor clear out and run smooth under load while drilling through the ice.

Note that you do not have to re-adjust the low speed needle out on the ice. But you may need to bump up the idle speed a bit in colder weather

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I have done this many times, both with my own augers and for many friends, It is the same process no matter what brand of two stroke motor you are tuning. As mentioned above, I assume your carb is clean and the passages are free of gunk. You cannot adjust a dirty carb with any reliability.

First, start the auger and run it until it is warmed up. Now, the low speed needle is on the left and the high speed is on the right, away from the motor. Get a piece of paper and pencil and then gently turn the low speed needle in until it seats. Record how many turns you turned it. Repeat with the high speed needle. Turning in the needles may loosen any crud that has collected on the needle seat and it gives you a baseline for the next steps.

Now, turn the low speed needle out 1 ¼ turns, and the high speed needle out ¾ turn and start the motor (Note that this is for the Jiffy/Tecumseh motor only. on other motors reset to the turns that you recorded). If it does not keep running turn up the idle screw until it keeps running. With the motor running turn the low speed needle in until you notice a decrease in RPM or roughness, and then back out about 1/8 turn. Re-adjust the idle speed screw to the RPM you want and low speed is done.

To set high speed you really need to be on the ice at temperature but this will get you close. Hold the throttle wide open and turn the high speed needle clockwise until RPM drops, then back it out until it runs a little rough. Your mixture will be a little rich but out in the cold air it will be very close. For fine tuning repeat this process out on the ice. When you get it right you will hear the motor clear out and run smooth under load while drilling through the ice.

Note that you do not have to re-adjust the low speed needle out on the ice. But you may need to bump up the idle speed a bit in colder weather

Hydro did what you said and it idles great. Problem is that the drill bit turns without giving it gas. Which one needs to be adjusted to stop that? Or is there a problem with the clutch/break on the auger?

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I can talk you through making adjustments to your Jiffy ice auger engine.

1. Read through the whole list before you start adjusting.

2. Close both jets GENTLY

3. Open the Low speed 1/4 turn

4. Open high speed jet 1 1/4 turn 5. Start engine.

6. Adjust low speed until idling smoothly.

7. Open her up wide open.

8. Adjust High speed until engine transitions smoothly from idle to high speed without bogging.

9. Shut engine off. Let it cool.

10. Once engine is cold. Fire it up and let it idle for 30 secs. Open it up wide open again. Adjust if necassary.

NOTE 1: The trick with the Jiffy's is to tune them during cold (ice fishing) weather.

NOTE 2: Low speed screw,the one on the left.

NOTE 3: High speed on the right.

Good luck ice fishing!

Found this on another site gonna try these screw adjustments to start with and see if that was the issue

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If the drill turns at idle, back the idle speed adjustment screw out to slow the RPM. The clutch is centrigugal and should not engage until it is spinning fast enough. If you cannot get it to run without the clutch engaging there may be an issue with a sticky clutch but that is unlikely.

If it is running smmothly at idle DO NOT readjust the mixture needle to change the RPM.

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Here is the scoop on the Jiffy carbs. On the procedure a couple of posts above, note that the low and high speed settings are WAY off for initial start up. The picture below is direct from the Jiffy tech guys.

full-711-27136-img.jpg

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Hey Hydro i just wanna say i used your advice on the adjustments and wow! Little backstory i got a Jiffy model 30 about 3 years ago from a buddy....traded it for the equivelant of about $100 bucks its in mint shape and used to be his dads. My buddy doesnt ice fish and wanted to see that it got used. Ever since i got it it would idle and run fine but under load it would never clear its throat. I even took it to a "proffesional" for 50 bucks to have it tuned up and got it back in the same shape i gave it. I took your advice in this thread and spent some time in the driveway and made the adjustments. The low speed screw was about 4 turns out and the high speed screw was over 2 turns out. According to the above that would put it way outta whack. Made the adjustments and immediately could hear and feel the difference, iddled smoother and at power ran cleaner and about double the shaft speed. Once again HSO comes thru.....Thank you Hydro!

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Josh, Remember that at 30 or 40 degrees it will sound a little rich. When the air cools (gets denser and has more oxygen molecules per unit of volume) it will like to have a little more fuel. That is why I originally stated that the high speed jet should be set a bit rich when tuning in the garage.

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Yeah I have had the auger for 4 years now and it ran great the first year but ever since it doesnt really matter if its super cold or 40 degrees on the ice it seems to bog down, I don't know if its getting too much fuel or not enough I guess

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I'm having the same problem with mine. Worked great for first year. Since then it'll start fine but then bog down and quits the second you put a load on it. Then it won't start again until it sits awhile then same thing, starts and revs fine but quits under load. So I talked to one of jiffy's authorized repair shops, they cleared it out and it ran a little better but still no luck. Put a new diaphram in with same results. Now he has a new carb and another part I can't remember on order. 140 bucks all together to fix a auger i bought at fleet farm for 325.

I only used 91 unoxygenated and jiffy oil. I sorta wish I would have tried to adjust the carb as stated above but the repair guy wasn't sure if I had a 1 or 2 year warranty so he had me bring it in. It was a one year warranty. Not to mention the jiffy book tells you not to mess with the carb and to bring it in to one of their approved shops.

Talked to jiffy rep at the show last Saturday and he was stunned that it was going to cost that much to repair. He said it shouldn't need a new carb with (2)half seasons of weekend use. He said he'll send me cover for the auger. Super excited to be able to cover my sweet auger haha. He also said that carb is 30 some dollars. I have't even used a full gallon of fuel in this auger.

The rep was nice and what can/should he really do. I emailed jiffy the entire story today and we'll see what they say.

Bottom line, i'm upset that I followed maintenance and care guide lines and baby all my equipment and this is my situation.

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I guess I should have mentioned mine is a 2hp stealth stx not a jiffy 30 but seen that the adjustments were for any 2stroke techumseh. My dad owns a 20 year old model 30 and that thing still runs like new, little sea foam every now and then and runs like a top, just won't fire it up in the garage again without hearing protection, man those things scream.

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Josh, Give my original process a try and note where the jet needles are when you first turn them in. If they are much more than 1 1/4 on low and 3/4 on high then the motor is indeed running rich. In any case you should be able to get it to run better. If not, get that carb cleaned and start over.

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Sure says alot about a product when guys don't give up on a 30 yr old auger cause it isn't running perfect. With some cleaning and a few adjustments guys are as happy with them as they were when they got the thing new or sencond hand. This is why I didn't hesitate to jump on the deal I got on mine. I called jiffy to figure out the age of it and it was made in 94-95. This thread has sure helped out alot of guys who were relying on shops to fix when you only need a screw driver.

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