refinishing laminate wood floors

[ripper]

Anyone have experience with a "buff and coat" process instead of a complete stip/sand/refinshing to their wood floors. My issue is I have a laminate and not a solid wood floor. I'm thinking this is my only option short of puttting in a new floor. They are not bad just in need of a refresh. A few scraches, normal wear and tear for a 10 yr old floor. Thoughts?

[Tom7227]

We are in the process of buying a floor now. There are very clear differences in the products. One had maybe 1/8 inch of the outer material and it was explained that that was a product that was made by peeling the log and getting sheets of veneer. Another product was about 3 times as thick and I think that was called saw cut. Perhaps you know what you have and so you can tailor your actions to the product. It was clear to me however that you would be hard pressed to successfully sand and re-coat the first material I mentioned.

[WallEYES]

If it is a laminate...you will get one sand and coat out of it...buff and coat hmmmmmm

[cavalierowner]

If by "laminate" you mean a Pergo-type floor, I wasn't aware you could refinish it. If you know who the manufacturer is, I would suggest calling the manufacturer and ask them or, if you don't, just ask one of the major manufacturers. Just ask for tech support.

[CAMAN]

Pergo type floors cannot be refinished, they have a printed surface on them.

Engineered wood floors have a veneer on the face with a plywood type substrate. And typically have one or two sandings in them.

I've never seen a buff and coat in person, but the concept is pretty sound. Like most everything you want to refinish, you rough up the surface slightly and put a new finish on. The only issue could be if the finish isn't quality and it doesn't adhere properly. But go with a proven company and that shouldn't be an issue.

[PurpleFloyd]

First off as was said, you need to know if it is actual wood or a wood print. The latter is not something you can repair or refinish.

If it is wood, either solid or veneer then you have options. If it has enough wood to completely sane to bare wood then you have that option which is fairly straight forward. For what you are doing I have developed a few techniques over the years that work well when going over existing surfaces.

You first need to thoroughly clean the floors and wash with TSP, then scuff with 220 grit sandpaper. Thoroughly clean and then apply a coat or two of a high quality water based finish with a brush, roller or lambs wool applicator.

Some will say WB finishes don't hold up but that is old data. The finish that is on the floors now if it was pre finished is probably a UV cured waterbased finish and I have been using waterbased finishes for over a decade and they are light years ahead of where they used to be. They are much more forgiving in terms of compatibility than solvent or oil based finishes and they have cross linkers now that cure it in a manner that is comparable to solvent finishes today. And most of them, unless they are oil modified or contain dyes won't turn yellow over time.

[ripper]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. It is not a printed finish, it does have a wood veener. I have no idea who the manufacture is but what I may do is test an area (under the stove or in closet). I'm just not sure of the quality/thickness of the veener so sanding it too much make me a little worried. Ideally we would like to lighten the stain so sanding would be my preference. It does sound like at a minimun I can do the "buff and coat" process.

[mn_bowhunter]

Definately test in an inconspicuous area. As someone who has recoated, refinished and installed thousands of square feet of flooring I can tell you I've seen my share of homeowner screw ups. Newer factory finished floors rarely get adhesion on a recoat. Older floors such as yours may work. Purplefloyds method is what I do as well when recoating. Make sure you allow the test to dry and cure, then give it the scratch test with a fingernail. If it flakes don't waste your time.

[giddyup99]

I wouldn't use TSP myself, but it isn't something you necessarily shouldn't use. TSP is a powerful emulsifier (soap) and if you get it on any unfinished oak it will darken it as it reacts with the acids in the wood (almost immediately, and would likely require sanding to remove)

You can use it, but be very careful, especially if you have worn through the existing finish of your floor in any areas. Better yet, call a local hardwood flooring guy and see if you can buy some of the chemicals he uses to clean before recoating floors. Bona Prep and Basic Coatings IFT are good products. Both are phosphate free as well.

Like MN_Bowhunter said - factory finished floors are often difficult to recoat with success.