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giddyup99

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About giddyup99

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    HotSpotOutdoors.com Family
  • Birthday 09/15/1979

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  • Location:
    Fargo, ND
  1. giddyup99

    refinishing laminate wood floors

    I wouldn't use TSP myself, but it isn't something you necessarily shouldn't use. TSP is a powerful emulsifier (soap) and if you get it on any unfinished oak it will darken it as it reacts with the acids in the wood (almost immediately, and would likely require sanding to remove) You can use it, but be very careful, especially if you have worn through the existing finish of your floor in any areas. Better yet, call a local hardwood flooring guy and see if you can buy some of the chemicals he uses to clean before recoating floors. Bona Prep and Basic Coatings IFT are good products. Both are phosphate free as well. Like MN_Bowhunter said - factory finished floors are often difficult to recoat with success.
  2. giddyup99

    Carpet?

    Whats the square footage of the area you are doing? Couldn't tell you anything without real numbers. $2700 for 1100 sf would be cheap. Especially considering the cost of the carpet is $3.00/sf. The HD in my neck of the woods basically GIVES you the install, as long as you buy the carpet from them. Like $99 or something to do the entire house. Can't really beat that.
  3. giddyup99

    Refinishing hardwood floors

    Looks pretty good! Nice job. The treads are fir, but the landing sure looks like maple to me.
  4. giddyup99

    More harwood floors

    The menards sander probably won't work for this. Most likely an oil or shellac finish on your floor and that machine will not cut it. See if you can find a drum sander to rent somewhere that runs on 220v. Probably have to hit it with a 36g first and work your way to 100g. 36g-50g-80g. Make 2 passes with the 50g, with the first being an angled cut (not a steep angle), then pull it straight with the 50g. Make sure all the finish is out of the floor after that pass and fill holes, then final sand. There is a lot of info online on how to use the drum sanders, its not rocket science, but easy to screw up.
  5. giddyup99

    More harwood floors

    He probably means the general condition of the floor is decent, but the finish is worn. If it hasn't been refreshed since 1928, it will need a good sand. As far as removing the old wood you want to replace, first remove the 1x6 and start marking out on both sides of the void what boards you want to cut out for the new stagger. Some of the boards will have butt ends that you can cut to, but some will probably be further than you want to cut out. i.e. I wouldn't cut out an entire 8 foot board, just mark it back further and cut it with a cutoff tool or zip saw. Be careful not to cut into the adjacent boards! Now that you got all your boards marked and cut new butt ends in some, take a circular saw and set it to the depth of the flooring. Cut 2 lines down each board from the void to the marked butt end. This will make it very easy to pull the center out of the board and room to chisel out the tongue portion where the nails are. You should be able to work it loose pretty easily. Clean up your area, and drop in your new wood. You may have to cut the bottom of the groove side off in order to get the new piece to drop in. Use some PL400 or Liquid nails to set the boards. Top nail if necessary, you should be able to blind nail most of it. Good luck!
  6. giddyup99

    Refinishing hardwood floors

    I would not use Basic's Streetshoe on a set of steps. It is very slippery. They do make a product called Hydroline that would be better for steps. Or just go with the Bona Traffic product, Its very durable and is not nearly as slippery - just doesn't look as nice as Streetshoe. Good luck with your project. Post some pics!
  7. giddyup99

    How do you get your dog to stop eating ...

    I have a beagle that did this when she was a pup. Can't remember if the vet got it for us, or got it off the shelf, but there is a powder that you can sprinkle on their food that makes their "business" taste bad. Worked for my beagle right away...had to use it for a couple of weeks to break her from the habit. Good luck!
  8. giddyup99

    How do you keep up?

    I got a dog from the same litter as fishroger and mnpurple. I will call her back and make her work more slowly if she is trying to run a bird down. I won't run or jog after her and more often than not she will pick up the trail again and eventually get the bird up. If we don't get it up, so be it. I like watching her work the field and she needs to hunt at my speed and not hers. She has tons of drive and sometimes its very hard for me to call her off the bird if the trail is hot. When I first began to work with her in the field I worked with a 30 to 50 foot check cord and as she began to take off, just before she hit the end of the cord I would give her the command to slow down. It took a few times of her hitting the end of the cord and getting corrected for her to figure it out, but 9 times out of 10 now when I tell her to slow down she will stop and wait for me to get there. Or she will loop back around and begin working back towards me. If the trail is hot, she won't move until I get caught up, and will begin working the same scent. I'm not saying that is the correct way to train your dog, but it did work for me. I'm glad I put so much work into that command early on, because this dog does not respond to nicks, beeps, vibrations or otherwise if she is hot on something. It may be poor collar conditioning on my part, but she is in another world at times and I can give her the full correction with the collar and can see her body lurch from it, but she keeps going. It will turn her eventually, but for only being a 60 lb dog, you'd think she'd respond more quickly to such a harsh correction.
  9. giddyup99

    WATER BILL??

    I think he means that you can make sure all your water outlets are shut off and go down and look and see if the wheel is spinning. The meter would not know or care the difference, but the person checking would know that no water was being consumed at the moment, and thus there is a leak somewhere.
  10. giddyup99

    Lund S14 remodel project

    Thanks jwmiller for the responses. Looks like your boat is coming along nicely. I was thinking I would try and sneak the livewell up front. I could probable put one between the support system in the front casting deck, but am going to pack a cooler along for the time being and see how it affects the performance and stability depending on the spot I place it in. It's not a must at this point, but if I can do it I would like to. The boat is rated for a 35hp, but currently has a 20 on it. 35hp would appear to be ALOT of motor for the current setup! I have looked through the 90 pages in this forum and have gained a ton of information - I know that some of the stuff covered will be redundant, but the search function doesn't work the best and I was more or less looking for some positive/negative feedback on the finished project.
  11. giddyup99

    Lund S14 remodel project

    I just bought a nice little Lund 14'er and am planning to do a little remodeling with it. Here is what I want to do: - Remove middle bench seat and add carpeted/vinyl floor - Add casting deck by extending front seat to nose of the boat - Add livewell (somewhere) - Add rod storage along either side - Add in-floor storage in casting deck - Add splashguards - Bow mount trolling motor - Repaint exterior - Plan on running electronics through rocker switches to simplify things and clean things up I am planning to keep the deck at the level of the front seat. Does this make the boat really tippy? WEIGHT... all this stuff is going to add a fair amount of weight. I plan on playing around with the arrangement of livewell, battery, etc. to see what works best, but if anyone has any input, please fire away! I do plan on stuffing as much marine foam into the spaces available as I can to offset some of this, although I have read through a ton of posts and some have stated the extra weight actually made their boat more stable. Here's were I need help...I know several guys have done this project or similar ones. What am I missing? Am I being too ambitious for this little boat? Are there things you wish you did not do to your project, or vice versa; What didn't you do that you wished you had? I'll add some pics and update this thread as I make progress.
  12. Looks like a nice boat...couple of ?'s Is this a pull start or electric start motor? How wide is the boat? How deep from floor to siderails?
  13. giddyup99

    new pup freaking out

    Maybe your dog is protecting his space. Might be a territorial thing, or if the daycare kids are around, it may be somewhat protective of them if a stranger walked in. Get your dog out of the kitchen and have some strangers approach it, see what happens. Definitely do not send strangers with treats to him. +1 on giving your dog a crate to call home.
  14. giddyup99

    Pike - wierd injury... safe to eat?

    Yeah...seen that before. Sounds like a lamprey was hitching a ride on your fish. If that is what it was you should be ok to eat it.
  15. giddyup99

    Garage door opener button question

    Each button has its own set of wires.
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