Cast iron table saw bed

[Tom7227]

I just bought a used saw and I am wondering what you can use to limit the buildup of rust on it. The rig is in pretty good shape but I know things can happen fast.

Auto wax? Boeshield 9? Rainex? Pretty sure that oil and WD 40 are out.

Thanks for your time.

Tom

[Gordie]

I will use steel wool to clean mine up then wipe on a light layer of cooking oil thats if it sits for long periods of time without using it.

I know they do make some dry silicones but I haven't ever used then I also am thinking instead of the oil I will use a cooking spray less mess and easy removal.

[CAMAN]

If it's got a layer of rust on it now find some Rust Eater and spray it on and let it do the work and maybe hit the heavily corroded areas with some steel wool. Clean that up with some rubbing alcohol then apply a couple coats of Turtle Wax. I usually reapply wax in the spring and fall, but may need to be done more frequently depending on use.

Another way to remove the rust is find a flat medium grit bench stone, apply a little WD40 or Kerosene to the table and run the stone in small circular motions over the table. Clean it up well with alcohol then apply the Turtle Wax. This will ensure there are no dings or scratches on the top that could get in the way when sliding your material across it.

[PurpleFloyd]

If you are going to cut anything where you will be staining and finishing then stay away from things with silicones. WD 40 has been attributed to problems with wood finishing but I am not going to say that it does, only that it might in some instances.

Personally for the tables in my shop I haven't had many rust problems but when they occur or if they are on a used piece of equipment I bring in I just use an orbital sander and 220 grit until the rust is off and then Boe Shield on it.

Of course steel wool and elbow grease will work just fine too.

[chad austin]

I use johnson paste wax on mine after each use. Then before each use I wipe down the top with lacquer thinner. While I'm using the saw and have feed issues I will use "golf wax" which is just a bar of wax that you would apply like a kid coloring (in a Z pattern "with the saw OFF of course" )

[hydro]

I agree with Purple Floyd on his technique. I have done the "rust removal" and polish on many cast iron machine beds and the sander/paste wax is the way to go. I just finished rebuilding a 1979 Powermatic model 66 table saw and I used a random orbital sander with 150 grit discs to clean up the surface. Don't worry about ruining the "flatness" of the table as the sanding removes only microscopic amounts of metal. DO NOT under any circumstance use the belt sander. You can go to finer grits on the polish but I like a micro scratch pattern to keep the work moving freely. Once the top is polished, I apply 2 or more coats of good old Johnsons paste wax to protect the metal and make it nice and slippery! Periodically repeat the wax process to keep the surface in condition. Here is the saw that I recently rebuilt:

[Tom7227]

There are swirls in the metal on the main part of the table. I take it those are there for a reason. Hydro mentioned the desire to keep things flowing and so my guess is that the swirls help with that. I was thinking about how I could get rid of those assuming that the previous owner had gotten carried away with some clean up. Good thing I read this before I got started.

[PurpleFloyd]

I agree with Purple Floyd on his technique. I have done the "rust removal" and polish on many cast iron machine beds and the sander/paste wax is the way to go. I just finished rebuilding a 1979 Powermatic model 66 table saw and I used a random orbital sander with 150 grit discs to clean up the surface. Don't worry about ruining the "flatness" of the table as the sanding removes only microscopic amounts of metal. DO NOT under any circumstance use the belt sander. You can go to finer grits on the polish but I like a micro scratch pattern to keep the work moving freely. Once the top is polished, I apply 2 or more coats of good old Johnsons paste wax to protect the metal and make it nice and slippery! Periodically repeat the wax process to keep the surface in condition. Here is the saw that I recently rebuilt:

You did a great job on the resto. Those old 66's are great tools. Do you have any before photos?

[hydro]

Sorry, I did not take "before" pics. The saw was in sound mechanical shape but dirty and beat up from years of use as a dado saw in a cabinet shop. I tore it down to parts, cleaned everything and re-assembled with some minor performance mods, built the rolling base and rear folding table. Also replaced the three phase motor with a single phase.

[Ufatz]

Nice job Hydro!! And a solid looking old saw.

All the above suggestions re: rust etc. are pretty valid. It's amazing sometimes how you can go away for a couple weeks and come back to find light rust on things.