Boat Rigging Discussion

[Borch]

Well I'm in the process of getting my Warrior 1890BT rigged up to add downrigger and dipsey rod holders to my current setup. My first hurdle is determining downrigger location and given my boat is a tiller and I have livewells and baitwell in trhe back of my boat that would make it difficult to access rigger in the back of the boat. So I'm planning in mounting them on the gunnels about 1/3 from the back of the boat with 4ft booms and use swivel mountgs. Next issue is that my gunnels are slightly rounded. In checking around I've found a couple of potential options but was thinking about using HDP cutting boards and shaping them to the gunnel contour and cutting them the same size as me deck mounting plates and bolting them in with some additional backer for added strenth. Use a little silcone caulking and call it good.

Next the dipsey rod holders. I've picked up a set of Bert's custom dipsey rod holders and plan on adding them up front in 6" tracks to minimize the clutter as I already have a dozen or so scotty hold holders that work well for walleye and some Salmon application but not liking them for magnum dipsey setups.

Any thought or recommendations? I hope to get started soon and will add pictures as I do.

[Transporter]

Sounds good so far. Hopefully the riggers won't be forward far enough to give you any problems getting the cable too close to the prop in certain conditions, say trolling in a beam sea when one side will have a tendancy to get closer to the boat.

Only thing I would change is eliminate the silicone caulk for a polysulfide caulk like Lifecaulk or Sika, they make a much better bedding compound, cure if wet or dry, (actually better when wet), have better adhesive capability and last forever compared to silicone. 3M 5200 is another choice but overkill in this application.

[Borch]

Thanks for the heads up on the adhesive.

When I get close to adding the rigger s I'll enlist some help and do some cable angle scenarios to ensure that the cable in the prop is unlikely to happen.

[Jim Hudson]

Sounds like you are right on track, Borch..

I custom mounted my riggers on my Tundra, due to the rounding of the gunnel. Used hard plastic just as you are describing. Worked slick!! Also, yes, I recommend to strength the gunnel with a backing plate.

For the dipsy holders, IMO, the best holders for these are down easters. They are 10 times easier to deploy the rod from when they are hit by a big fish. Getting them out of a tube rod holder can be a pain in the you know what at times, especially when they are torqued over. I use Bert tracks and then a the Berts adapter for the down easters. The only downside is that the rod butt sticks into the interior of the boat. But, the plus is better then the minus if you ask me..

[Sutty]

I would be a little nervous about mounting the riggers forward, a wicked current could ruin your day. I am certainly not an expert but I have not seen any mounted anywhere but towards the back of the boat.

If you haven't already (you probably have) check out some boats already set up. It is a lot easier than reinventing the wheel!

[Borch]

Well here's a pic of the back half of my boat.

Like I mentioned it's a tiller. I have fished in a few boats set up simuliar but maybe a foot further back than where I was thinking. Was thinking about mounting one about 6-12" behind the steering control on the right side of the boat and 6" behind the flush mount rod holder on the left gunnel. I would think it would be tough reaching over locators and the livewell to work the riggers.

[Borch]

Sounds like you are right on track, Borch..

I custom mounted my riggers on my Tundra, due to the rounding of the gunnel. Used hard plastic just as you are describing. Worked slick!! Also, yes, I recommend to strength the gunnel with a backing plate.

For the dipsy holders, IMO, the best holders for these are down easters. They are 10 times easier to deploy the rod from when they are hit by a big fish. Getting them out of a tube rod holder can be a pain in the you know what at times, especially when they are torqued over. I use Bert tracks and then a the Berts adapter for the down easters. The only downside is that the rod butt sticks into the interior of the boat. But, the plus is better then the minus if you ask me..

I really looked hard at the down easters as their salty rig looks bullet proof. I decided to go the Bert's for the reason you mentioned keeping the long rod butts out of the boat. When I run with 3 guys in the boat thought it would be good to keep the floorplan as open as possible. Maybe I'll change my mind after I fight to get them out of the holder. At least I'll have the tracks in place if I decide to make the change.

[Sutty]

I don't think you have to worry about getting them out of the holders. When you first get used to removing dipsey rods with fish on it is a bit of a struggle but you get used to pushing the rod a little forward as you slide it out and it comes out just fine. Another option some guys do is to just loosen the drag before they remove the rod and than tighten it back up.

[Surface Tension]

I think you'll be alright with the location of downriggers. I have 4 downriggers and the have 2 mounted 6' up the gunnels. Those outdowns get wingers attached between the ball and cable.

I don't like long booms for the fact you have to swivel them in to attach a line to the release and don't think they're necessary. You can use a ball retriever but both swivel and ball retriever is one extra step.

Since you have the swivels you don't have to run them at a 90 degrees to the boat. Run them at a 45 that way you can get at the ball and that sets the end of the boom closer to the stern.

Next thing to think about is tending the ball and release. Are you going to have to lay your belly on the gunnel and lean over to attach a release. Will anything be in the way with the booms at a 45 degree.

Having a tiller, a plus side to the DRs forward is now you can see and tend the rigger that would be on your blind side if it were mounted at the stern.

I like the Berts rod holder you've chosen just because the rod butts won't be sticking in the boat.

[End of the Line]

I agree with Frank. Keep the booms short so there isn't so much side load placed on the gunnel, and add the wingers. The only other thing is try a maybe think about using a 12" track mounted to the gunnel if you can and making the "shim" the entire length of the track. This will help with rigidity and allow you to move the riggers slightly, or add another rod holder later if needed.

Here's the wingers:

[Borch]

Wingers...

That's new to me. Hadn't heard of them before.

Looks like a snubber connecting it to the ball?

[Transporter]

They do the job at spreading the outside riggers, not a snubber though. I make leaders out of 100# mono and use them between the ball and the cable or winger if using them. Some of the areas I fish are full of rock reefs that come up very fast, rarely but once in a while you will hang a ball on bottom or the rocks. The leader will break before the cable and you sacrifice the ball, saving the terminator, clip, release and time.

[End of the Line]

Yes, that is a snubber below the winger in the picture on my riggers. I have also used weed wacker string too.

[Borch]

What kind of knot do you use on the weed wacker string? I have lots of that laying around not being used.

[Borch]

Some of the areas I fish are full of rock reefs that come up very fast, rarely but once in a while you will hang a ball on bottom or the rocks. The leader will break before the cable and you sacrifice the ball, saving the terminator, clip, release and time.

Friend of mind making their maiden voyage out toe Lake Michigan lost 2 balls when it suddenly got shallow and they were slow on the draw. So I might use something like this at least until I get a good feel for the area.

[Transporter]

I don't tie knots in them, although you could just tie a clinch or improved clinch knot if you wanted. I have a bunch of the right sized crimp sleeves and a crimp tool so I use them. I made a bunch up ahead of time so it's a quick change if I need to.

[tunrevir]

The wingers are new to me as well. Why not use pancake weights with the adjustable fin to slide baits out to the side? Seems like an awful lot of turbulence to be created with all the hardwear. Just curious as to what the advantage is by having a winger and a ball over a pancake weight with a metal fin?

Tunrevir~

[End of the Line]

Pancake weights have been known to tangle. I have heard horror stories. I have not personally tried them myself, but know the stories well.

There is little turbulence behind the winger in my opinion. I like them for a few reasons other than the obvious of a spread action. I like it because if for some reason I would hit the bottom, I still have the winger and only lose the ball. Second reason is that I can change weights below the ball in the spring to a 6 or 8 lb and still use the winger to move my spread further yet from the boat as shallow depths. This saves me from having many more expensive weights to buy. Also I know at 100' down the ball is apprx 18' off to the side of the boat with a 12 pound weight, I don't think you can get that kind of side action out of a pancake weight. Just my 2 cents.

[Surface Tension]

10 & 12 lb balls are cheaper and the are molds available for those that cast their own.

Having all the same type weights means your spare balls on board will work on every rigger.

Fish and pancakes weights are bad for dragging or bouncing on bottom.

IMO there is less turbulence and blow back with a ball and winger compared to a pancake.

If you bend the fin on a pancake the whole thing will track at an angle.

A winger stays parallel to the boat.

Joel, I see we were posting at the same time.

What were going to find on this forum is that different Great Lakes and even Ports will have different techniques used unique to the area.

[Tom Linderholm]

Borch,

It sounds like you have a pretty solid plan together, in my old 22 footer I had my outdowns mounted forward of my rear riggers by 3' and used 8# pancakes without any issues (still use the pancakes).

On the rod holders, I picked up a couple cannons with the 360 degree swivel and easy up tilt for my dipsey's. Absolutely love them, never had the downeasters but these are my all time favorites as I can just grab the rod tilt it up and pop it out with fish on!

[Borch]

I looked at those new Cannon dual axis rod holders with one hand tilt and swivel. Couldn't justify the price for how often I'd be using them. Everyone who has them seems to really like them though.

After some playing around in the boat moving and swiveling the riggers I think I'm moving the one in front of me back behind my electronics instead of in front. Should still be decent to get at. The one behind me will stay where I had planned and be ultra easy access for me or my fishing partners.

[tacklejunkie]

Agree on the Down East rod holders.

Easy to get a rod out of them but tough to open any compartments on the inside side of the boats

[fsnrod]

Pancake weights have been known to tangle. I have heard horror stories. I have not personally tried them myself, but know the stories well.

There is little turbulence behind the winger in my opinion. I like them for a few reasons other than the obvious of a spread action. I like it because if for some reason I would hit the bottom, I still have the winger and only lose the ball. Second reason is that I can change weights below the ball in the spring to a 6 or 8 lb and still use the winger to move my spread further yet from the boat as shallow depths. This saves me from having many more expensive weights to buy. Also I know at 100' down the ball is apprx 18' off to the side of the boat with a 12 pound weight, I don't think you can get that kind of side action out of a pancake weight. Just my 2 cents.

I can see they would interfere with my dipsys.