Trailer work

[bassfshin24]

I have a few things I want to do with my trailer and not sure where I could take it. For some reason the rust really got to my trailer this winter. I would really like to get it repainted...what's something like that cost? Also I need to put new bunks on...is that something I could do myself? Where is a good place around Roseville I could take it? Or if this is something I could do myself, where could I order new bunks

[TR21HP]

bassfishin24, There is an autoshop/marine repair shop just south of Co. Rd. C. and west of Fairview that I know of that could do that work. You can order bunks from the trailer manufacturer and put those on yourself but, depending on where the rust is it might have to be blasted, primed and repainted - considerable work but not impossible. Sorry I can't remember the name of the shop but it's right off C.

[mamaboy]

As far as bunk repair, just goto menards or home depot and get pre- treated wood and marine carpet and do it yourself. alot cheaper.

[bassfshin24]

Thanks for the info TR. I think I know what place your talking about.

[CHM]

I was quoted $400 to sand blast and powder paint a trailer.

[bassfshin24]

I am going to start this topic again. I never did end up having this done. I would really like to have the trailer sand blasted and painted. Has anyone done this recently? The bunks definitely need replaced as well. I just don't have the tools to do something like this. I'm not what you would call good with my hands. I'm sure most places need the boat off the trailer to do the work too. If anyone can provide some info on what I should do or if anyone has done this by themselves before I would be willing to pay ;-)

[RumRiverRat]

Removing a boat from a bunk trailer can be done.

Need a couple good bottle jacks, a couple dozen cement blocks and several 6x6 posts cut to various lengths. Along with the help of 1 or 2 friends.

Using a gently sloping driveway you want the tounge of the trailer at the same level as the back of the trailer. This can be accomplished by placing a cement block under the wheel of the tongue jack and having the tongue jack all the way down.

Place cinder blocks and 6x6 post section directly under the keel.

Crank tongue jack all the way up, this will drop the rear of the trailer and the keel will be resting on the blocking

You just want the boat off the bunk, 1/8" or less clearance between bunk and hull.

Depending on placement of cross members on the trailer the next steps are either relatively easy or exceedingly difficult.

You want to place a cement block and 6x6 post section close to the rear side of the cross member at the front of the trailer under the keel.

Lower the tounge jack down until the keel is supported by the block.

At this point the boat will just be off the bunks. Pull the trailer forward enough to allow you to block the port and starboard chines.

Then with a bottle jack placed on a cinder block and a piece of 6x6 on top of the jack and the jack placed just forward of the cross member lift the boat enough so you can move the blocking that was just behind the cross member before you moved the trailer forward into position just behind the cross member. Lower the jack so the boat is again resting on the blocking. Pull trailer forward again. Repeat this process until you have blocks under the keel just before the point where the keel transitions from the bottom of the hull amd angles up towards the bow.

At this point you can pull the trailer forward until the axle is at the blocking. Repeat the same process to get the blocking behind the axle.

Once the blocking is behind the axle you can completely pull the trailer out from under the boat.

Getting the boat back on the trailer is just a reverse of the process I just described.

I have actually done this process twice. Once with a 19 foot Larson fiberglass boat on a bunk trailer and once with a 18 foot Lund aluminum boat on a roller trailer.

The roller trailer was much easier.

Do a youtube search and you find a couple videos showing the method I just described.

[Craigums]

I've seen pre-carpeted bunks in BPS catalogs for reasonable prices. You could probably drop your boat in a lake and tie it off to a dock on a slow day (mid week, day time) and just change out the bunks while in the parking lot of the launch. Take a look first but they are probably just held in with bolts and nuts.

[bassfshin24]

Thanks Craigums. I just looked it up and it looks like it is going to be a lot cheaper to do it myself. Ive been doing research and it doesn't look too hard.

Now Rum that sounds like a lot of work haha. I think I'll try and figure out a place that can do it with the boat on haha.

[bemidjibasser]

X2 what craigums said. You probably can get this job done yourself with a couple wrenches and some wd40 to loosen nuts that are likely rusted. Drop the boat in, tie up and get to wrenching...maybe an hour of work if the bolts are rusted. A cordless sawzall would be good and replacement bolts and nuts if they are really rusted on.

[MN BassFisher]

I'd imagine this is work you'll want done before Bass Opener but if not, I could definitely give you a hand on it once I move back!

[Deitz Dittrich]

Better yet, find a landing where you can just beach the boat.. then you dont take up dock space...

[hydrashack]

Saw some bunks on Minneapolis hsolist. Might take a look to see if they work and help with cost and time.

[TurnUpTheFishing]

I replaced my trailer bunks several years ago. Its simple all you really need is a drill, some drill bits and a wrench. Buy some treated boards to match your current bunks. Buy some outdoor carpet, cut down boards, and staple on the carpet. Drop your boat in at a launch, unscrew old bunks, put the new ones on, drill some pilot holes and screw the new ones on. The whole process can be done in an afternoon.