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jiffy model 30


2eyesman2

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Bought mine new in the early 80s, replaced the blade once since then. Yes, it is a bit heavy and it has a strong voice, but it starts on the first or second pull every time and it drills like a madman. I'm not a big guy, if I can handle it, anyone can.

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I love my 30! It is the model that has one bar for a handle on the right side and you have to hold the other one that is above the recoil.

You can buy a D-Handle conversion kit for $30 bucks from Jiffy. Took me about 2 hours to do mine.

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I bought my 9" Model 30 back in 1984 I think. I had some carb work done on it to try and stop some leaking but that's all I've ever done. Sometimes I remember to drain the gas in the spring - sometimes not. I always start the season with fresh gas and it pops off in 2 maybe 3 pulls. They are heavy but it's like a Timex with a load tick.

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I bought a model 30 the first year they were yellow. 2 years ago i bought a jiffy 2500 lighting to get away from the weight. Last week i took the model 30 out and it took 4 pulls with new gas. I am thinking of buying a 10 inch and takeing it out of retirement.

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The 2500 a good auger or is this question answered by the 30 coming out of retirment? Or running 2 different sizes to have options? Can't beat the sound of the model 30 it is what you look back at your childhood and remember being on the ice hearing one augerand the sound echoing from the shoreline across the lake. The 30.

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I have a 1965? Jiffy that I got from my old man - has the single bar to hold onto. The thing is a beast. Always runs well after a tweak on the air screw ever fall and cuts like a SOB. Its quicker than a lot of the newer ones. Doesn't have removable blades and has never been sharpened...

I dont think I will ever buy a new one if she always runs and cuts like it does.

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I have a 1965? Jiffy that I got from my old man - has the single bar to hold onto. The thing is a beast. Always runs well after a tweak on the air screw ever fall and cuts like a SOB. Its quicker than a lot of the newer ones. Doesn't have removable blades and has never been sharpened...

I dont think I will ever buy a new one if she always runs and cuts like it does.

You need to post a pic of that thing. powerhead and blade.

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Also have an older Jiffy 30. It didn't seem as heavy 15 or so years ago. Got the 9" blade and it makes quick work drilling a few holes.

Started using Amzoil, mixed 80-1 and it starts, idles and runs too good to consider buying a new one.

A little heavy and somewhat noisy, but she gets the job done!

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
    • Or he could go with leech~~~~~
    • Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
    • Blessed Christmas to all.  
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