broadhead question

[Fish&Fowl]

Not trying to start a debate on what brand or type is best...just trying to get an explanation. I have been having a hard time getting various fixed-blade broadheads to fly like my field points, but really don't want to shoot an expandable. Tonight I shot some G5 Montecs and they were hitting low.

I am wondering how some people can get these to fly like their field points while others can't. If an arrow is straight and the bow is tuned,what would cause one bow to shoot them fine while others don't...maybe arrow spine?

I refuse to move my sights or rest as everything is in line and my field tips are flying like lazers. Are expandables really my only option?

[Archerysniper]

It will require a little tuning to get them to fly like your field points. If the are dead center but low you have to lower you knocking point.

[Kettle]

Paper tune it with your field points if you have not done that yet, you can get awesome groupings with field points even with a bow not properly tuned through paper. Once that is done your broadheads will fly strait, and yes even the fixed blades

Kettle

[Powerstroke]

Could be a spine issue. Could be a small change is needed on your rest or nocking point. First I would get it paper tuned to make sure that looks good. Next thing I would do is test a couple different broadheads. If they are all doing the same general thing then I would look at the changes that need to be made to correct that. Another thing this to consider is if you hold the bow differently with a broadhead on if it sits close to the riser and your hand. SOmetimes things like that are subconscious.

If your primary goal is to hunt with your bow, I wouldn't really care where your field tips are hitting. I would be most concerned with getting your broadheads to hit where you want them.

Moving your sight should be the last resort. If your field tips and broadheads weigh the same, then they should hit the same.

[mrklean]

Paper tune it with your field points if you have not done that yet, you can get awesome groupings with field points even with a bow not properly tuned through paper. Once that is done your broadheads will fly strait, and yes even the fixed blades

Kettle

+1 had my one bow paper tuned last year and the field points and broadheads were almost shooitng the same, the groupings were only and inch or two off

[Scoot]

Most people who own a bow have no idea how to tune it. Most people who claim to know how to tune a bow don't actually know. Several good suggestions above, all of which may play a role. The reason your field points and broadheads aren't hitting in the same spot is because your setup isn't tuned properly. If you're not sure how to fix it you're probably best off bringing it to someone who knows how to tune it.

Talk to the guys on here and find out the name of a person at a bowshop near you who knows what he's doing. Importantly, don't just get the name of a shop- not all employees are equal. I do most of the work on my bow myself (and sometimes with my brother's help). However, when we're stumped, we bring it to a local place and make sure the same knowledgable guy works on it. There are a couple other guys who work there that I would let touch my six year old son's bow...

[Cheetah]

In my experience broadhead tuning comes down to adjustments made at the rest and nocking point on the string. You can also try different spined arrows. Checking if the broadhead has any wobble when spin testing. Larger blade 3-blade heads are tougher to tune, and 2-blade heads have been super easy for me. Sometimes an arrow shaft is just funky, could be a slight bend you can't see in the mid/back, maybe the fletching is off a bit, or maybe the tip isn't perfectly square. If it doesn't fly right and the others do, don't use it for broadheads.

There are a lots of good guides online on other forums that explain how to make the various adjustments. I don't bother with paper tuning because when I have done it, the paper says I have a slight problem, but the arrows with multiple types of heads all shoot fine. That's what works for me, and someone will probably say I am doing it wrong, but it works for me.

Some guys even have a different sight set up just for broadheads if they hit consistently but are x inches apart from the field points.

[snapcrackpop]

I refuse to move my sights or rest as everything is in line and my field tips are flying like lazers.

If you're unwilling to move anything I'd learn to aim high...

[Scoot]

If you're unwilling to move anything I'd learn to aim high...

LOL- that's funny and well said!!!

+1 snap!

[Fish&Fowl]

Guess I'll be shooting expandables then cuz they ain't moving! Thanks for the info guys, bow was just all tuned by a very knowledgable guy at a pro shop last weekend and it is shooting very tight groups up to 60 yards. Bow is also paper-tuned.

[snapcrackpop]

Glad to hear that.

You should keep buying broadheads till you find one that works.

Then if you are still having trouble, reconsider above advice.

Good luck next weekend.

[1johntimm]

Try Slick Tricks. After going through the same expierience and listening to a few opinions on here, I tried them and they have killed a few deer for me, and are also very accurate.

[Archerysniper]

Try Slick Tricks. After going through the same expierience and listening to a few opinions on here, I tried them and they have killed a few deer for me, and are also very accurate.

+1000 Also scary sharp and hold a great edged and I haven't been able to break one yet even tried a cinder block the arrow failed the broadhead didn't

[Scoot]

...bow was just all tuned by a very knowledgable guy at a pro shop last weekend and it is shooting very tight groups up to 60 yards.

If your broadheads and field points aren't hitting in the same spot, your bow isn't tuned properly. Doesn't matter how knowledgable the guy at the pro shop is- he didn't tune it properly.

Expandables are an option. Other fixed heads are also an option (slick tricks are great and often group well when other fixed heads don't). Regardless of what you do, good luck!

[Archerysniper]

With most tuning done it is close enough to shoot great groups with field points however the fixed blade broadheads will show you it is not 100% perfect because of the difference in flight between the two group. Most times to get them to fly the same it is only a 1/32 of a inch change in the rest or knocking point.

[snapcrackpop]

If your broadheads and field points aren't hitting in the same spot, your bow isn't tuned properly. Doesn't matter how knowledgable the guy at the pro shop is- he didn't tune it properly.

I have READ that a FEW bow setups will not tune to the point that they get the FP & BH to hit together...regardless, the end fix is the same... dial in the BH.

And I shoot Slick Tricks too.

Another option is the RAGE, they expand your kill zone, dontcha'know.

[Fish&Fowl]

Okay well I will be trying the Slick Tricks as early as this week as my dad's buddy just shot them for the first time the other night and had them grouping nicely with his field points.

Scoot,

So assuming the guy did something right and my cams are timed correctly, are you saying that all I need to do is move the rest until they fly the same and then it's "tuned" or is there something I'm missing?

[Archerysniper]

If your leaning towards expandables, I have shot both the rages and the NAP spitfires and prefer the spitfires they are very durable and sharp. The rages I used never seemed sharp enough so I had to touch them up.

[Powerstroke]

Getting "tuned" is more than just timing your cams. Its also important to have a proper relationship between your rest and nocking point. Also grip and shooting form is very important. Field points will fly nicely because they have less wind resistance and recover quickly.

Add in a fixed blade broadhead that grabs a little more air and it will show the flaws in your system very quickly. Even though I have difficulty getting my Xforce perfectly tuned on paper, my field tips and broadheads fly to the same spot and is reliable. Don't get so caught up in how field tips fly if the ultimate goal is to shoot broadheads.

[snapcrackpop]

Magnus broadheads have a great, simple video called "tuning basics" that take some of the mystery out of the "Eastman's Tunning Guide".

When I started shooting there was no way I was going to "adjust" my bow myself...now I feel confident moving the rest. But I am still hesitant about moving a loop or nock point myself. If I mess up I can take it back to the shop... no biggie.

[Fish&Fowl]

Thanks again for the info guys. I am going to do some tweaking tonight, I will post the results. For the record I'm shooting a Hoyt Maxxis 31 @ 67 lbs. with a 28 1/2" draw length and 400 spine Easton ST Epic NFused with blazers.

[Scoot]

I have READ that a FEW bow setups will not tune to the point that they get the FP & BH to hit together...regardless, the end fix is the same... dial in the BH.

Yes, I hear this frequently too. I imagine it's occasionally possible- I know of a couple people who are super-bright regarding bow tuning who have had bows that they simply couldn't get tuned. That being said, I think 90+% of the time the issue is with lack of knowledge in tuning a bow...

[Scoot]

Scoot,

So assuming the guy did something right and my cams are timed correctly, are you saying that all I need to do is move the rest until they fly the same and then it's "tuned" or is there something I'm missing?

Lots of good advice above. Powerstroke's dead on, and the other info is also good stuff. Just for clarification, checking the timing of the cams is only part of tuning. Some people think it IS tuning. What the guy at the store may have done (and I obviously have no way to knowing) is to checking the timing of the cams and send you on your way. This is extremely common and only is a good start...

Check out the video snap recommended- it's got good basic info in there for you.

As mentioned earlier- it's typically a quick tweak to the knocking point or the rest. If the knocking point is right, it should just take teeny tiny microadjustments of your rest to get it fixed. One thing to keep in mind- just because you get them hitting the same at 20 yards doesn't mean they are still the same at 40 yards, so be sure to check that your POI is the same at multiple distances.

Another thing to look into is called "walk back tuning" or "step back tuning". It's related to what we're talking about and looking into it will help your cause. Also, and I know this will get people's undies up in a bunch, but many very knowledgable guys have gone away from paper tuning and believe it's not worth squat. I haven't gone this far, but I do firmly believe it's not nearly as important as some think it is. Importantly, I'm thorough convinced it's not the end-all-be-all I once believed it was.

Good luck!

[Gopher_Man]

Great Post Scoot!

He is dead on with tuning I totally agree that paper tuning is not the end all, walk back and broadhead tuning are great ways to help fine tune your bow more. Sometimes it is just a very small adjustment that needs to be made.

Just this past fall, my wife's bow was paper tuned and walk back tuned great, put broad heads in and made it slightly off of field points. Made a very small adjustment to the rest and it fixed everything. Both have the same point of impact now.

Good luck moose hunting by the way!

[DonBo]

Just this past fall, my wife's bow was paper tuned and walk back tuned great, put broad heads in and made it slightly off of field points. Made a very small adjustment to the rest and it fixed everything. Both have the same point of impact now.

I know this won't be a very popular response either but here goes. I spend all summer getting my FP to fly perfectly with all the above suggestions. Now I put broadheads on and low and behold they don hit exactly the same place as my BH. My broadheads still fly great, just don't impact the same spot. Am I going to tweak my set up away from what I believe to be perfectly tuned JUST so my broadheads hit the same spot? No. You only have to look at a fixed blade broadhead to see it won't cut the air the same as your field points. Move your site and move on.

I know this isn't for everyone, and that's fine. As long as you can hit what you're shooting at and you feel comfortable with your set up then you should be good to go.

Good luck!