Building a deer stand

[Mnfisher]

I want to build a freestanding deer stand about 5x5, about 10' tall. I can't really find the kind of plan I want, so may just come up with my own. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated. Is 10' high high enough? Can I use 4x6 green treated lumber for the 4 support poles? 2x6 okay for the cross bracing? Do I need to set the posts in the ground? 2 ft? 3 ft? Thought I'd use 4 4x6 green treated posts 14' long so I would come up about 2' above the platform, then could add enclosure on that or a higher rail at a later time. That would mean digging in the posts 2'. Any good online plans that anyone has found? I've done some searching but can't find exactly what I need/want. Thanks.

[TooTallTom]

Hi Mnfisher,

It sounds like you've got a pretty good start on things as far as materials to be used. One thing that sticks out at me, though, is your 5'x5' size. Sheet goods typically come in 4'x8' dimensions, so your life might be a bit easier if you worked off that.

As far as height, 10' is plenty. Just getting up enough to change your perspective helps a whole lot. You'll want to pay special attention to how you locate the windows if you decide to enclose the stand.

If you haven't already searched the forums for other threads on this topic, I'd encourage you to give it a shot. I remember at least one discussion about this within the last 6-9 months. You might get some good insight from reading that.

Good luck with your project, and definitely post up any specific questions you have.

Tom.

[LightningBG]

I love build threads. I'll whip up some ideas for ya.

Edit....

Well this is what I'm envisioning so far. I'm thinking about 6x8ft platform.

I like 6 ft across to be able to look out both sides, but not feel cramped. I like 8 ft long because you can have 2 people in there and it doesn't really cost any more, due to lumber lengths.

This is kinda the progression I would use while building.

by the time your at stage 3. This is the lumber that you'd be in (for this drawing).

(4) - 4x6x14 green treated post

(4) - 2x8x8 regular wood (around outside of top)

(9) - 2x6x8 regular wood (floor joists and outside of bottom)

(2) - 4'x8'x3/4" plywood (floor)

(10)- joist hangers (not totally needed, but they are nice)

couple pounds of lag bolts

a box of nails or screws

Personally I like using regular wood when ever possible for a couple reasons...

less special fasteners needed

can paint it (camo)

cheaper

less weight

[TooTallTom]

Also, be sure that all your fasteners are okay for use with treated wood. Nothing worse than getting up in your stand and discovering that the fasteners have all been eaten by the wood.

[BoxMN]

Don't forget crossbracing of some sort, and think about how to enter the blind once you get there. We have some welded out of good solid angle iron, but right where you enter at top has a bar across at 4' high, so you need to duck and be kinda an acrobat getting in Wish that wasn't there.

[Bear55]

Don't forget crossbracing of some sort

Good advice here, it will do wonders to the overall solidness of your stand. I would also stick with your 5 by 5 plan or even go a touch larger 5 X 6 or 6 X 6 if you want to bring the kids along.

[Mnfisher]

Thanks for the good advice so far. I will definetely make sure fastener's will be ok with green treated. Lightning...I like those plans. I won't forget the cross braces. What about burying the posts into the ground? 2' or just let it set on top....maybe a 2x6 brace on each side (in addition to a couple of side braces) that would set on the ground? I will check out previous threads also. I checked back aways yesterday and didn't find any, but I'll do a search. Thanks again. Jim

[Bear55]

I would dig in the posts if it were me, any extra stability is a good thing. Especially when you are talking box stand and high winds, tt takes a pretty big storm but I have seem a couple of them tip over from high winds. If you want to go the extra mile I know a few people who run guide cables to a stake in the ground to make extra sure a strong wind won't make them a little tipsy.

[Crow Hunter]

Recently some of us participated in a thread named box stand tips, search for that. I don't know how to attach a link to the thread or I would do so.

The one i built was 4x6 and I cemented the posts in; it is rock solid with the cross bracing I added. How far to dig them in depends on soil type, etcetera, you don't want the frost heaving them. I also used treated wood for the floor joists. I am building another one this year that will be 5x5. I can't cement the posts in where this one will go (too wet) so I am using metal fixtures for the legs, google 4x4 elevators to see them. I will then drive in metal fence posts at each corner, bend them at the top in to the leg, and wire them in place for stability. We did that with another stand and it worked real well.

[TooTallTom]

I can't cement the posts in where this one will go (too wet)

I thought concrete would set under water? Maybe I'm just remembering wrong (again)...

[LightningBG]

Cross-bracing is good cheap insurance, but I wouldn't worry too much as long as those posts are into the ground 3-4 ft.

For 10 ft high, I wouldn't go to the length of putting cables or support beams going out to the ground. (assuming those posts are well into the ground.)

The other thing I would say is...

dig your holes and plob your posts into them. build your top and bottom frame (around the perimeter), then go back and fill around the posts. this way you can make sure everything is square before you lock them into the ground.

[LightningBG]

I thought concrete would set under water? Maybe I'm just remembering wrong (again)...

For a deer stand there are ways to get around it.

Dig your hole, put a tarp in the hole, insert a footing tube, post inside tube, pour concrete in tube. Trim tarp.

(or dont put a post in the tube and bolt the post to the top of the footing.)

[Crow Hunter]

I am afraid the sides would just fall in as I dug the hole, but who knows for sure. Thanks for the idea.

[Mnfisher]

I think I will go 6x6 (floor space)...not 100% sure yet though. I checked one out down the road and it is 6 x8. Way too big for me and not needed for two even, I don't think unless you want a bed in there. Think I will definetly sink my posts in footings with cement. The one I saw today was made with 4x4 green treated posts with 2x4 cross braces and 4 steel fence posts pounded down diagonally. Not sure how deep the posts were though but the whole thing looked very sturdy. They used 2x8 joices though and I though that was maybe too much. Thanks for all the good information. Jim

[jay83196]

I just built a 6+6 its a good size enough room for two I can't figure out how to post a picture on here or I would show you...how do I post pictures on here I can't seen to remember?

[Mnfisher]

I have a hard time with that too (posting pictures). Thanks for the thought though! Yes, 6x6 seems like a good size.

[jay83196]

6x6 deer stand 15' high, pictures with deer in them taken from trail camera last year. Just have some more inside trim to do carpet and a little paint outside and then done.

[Mnfisher]

Wow! The Taj Mah Hal!!! Quite the work of art! Thanks for sharing. Mine won't be quite that elaborate but should be functional.

[3pronghook]

a buddy built this for me and the nice thing about it was it comes apart and can be eaily transported to the hunting spot and set up. we did build the legs in his yard but they could easily be assembled in the field. I hauled this on a 8x 10 snowmobile trailer. we attached the base to legs ands tipped it off the trailer. then its one wall at a time. walls are insulated and made of lightweight materials so one guy can carry up ladder where the screw to platform and to each other on the corners. after 3rd wall up, the roof is carried up and set into notches on the walls and screwed into place. 4th wall sets into place and is fastened down. the panels overlap the base and extra screws added for stability. from trailer to assembled in less than an hour. more time to finish, but thats all a one man deal. access is a trap door and the windows are tilt up or down and sealed. this is 5x5 and roughly 6 feet tall at peak. i pounded a fence post by each leg and drilled two holes in the legs and bolted a heavy duty "c" clamp around the post and to the leg. Heavy clay soils. The legs are actually a 2x6 and 2x4 screwed together. the plans are in his head, but though pictures might give some ideas.

[jay83196]

That's cool to make it mobile, smart idea if you hunt multiple locations.

[rkhinrichs]

cool i like the pics!

[MJ1657]

Thats exactly how I want to build mine 3prong.

I wish you guys were closer I would like to have a look at it.

[Crow Hunter]

Very nice, 3 prong. The windows "tilt up or down and are sealed". I would like some more details on how the windows are made and how they work, if you don't mind. I will be building a similar stand this summer and still deciding on how I want to do the windows. Thanks.

[3pronghook]

the windows fit into the opening that is shown in the pictures. the window is two part, the frame and the pane. the pane is trimmed in wood to fit in the frame and then hinged either to either open up or down. I hinged to open down and lock them up with a sash lock. Having them open up allows you to leave them hang open for draft. windows are plexiglass and once in place I sealed all the cracks with caulk to help keep bugs out.