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Let's talk about line choices.


DTro

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I talked with a Rep at the Sportshow today, he told me there is most definitely a difference between the 832 and the performance braid. The Performance has 30 picks (per inch I think) and the 832 has 32. Also the Gore fiber is not in the Performance. The Gore fiber makes it more abrasion resistant and also sheds water better.

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Those commercials are funny and accurate since there are no cat guys in it. Cat guys would be out fishin instead of at a nightclub talkin bout fishin. smile

Reminds me of one time I had to stop and pick someone up some off-sale. whistle Or should I say "try". Fishing the Honk Your Horn area has its advantages but depends highly on what side of the river you drive up to/over to though. Just remember Rob, it could and has happened. I remember one of the songs playing like it was burned in my head:

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I would do it again, if I had to.

As far as line goes for me I am on a blend of Power Pro and Sufix. Mid-spool and really have no issues. Always looking for good info on that next spool time though. Thanks Darren. smile

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I'm really anxious to try out that 832. I have had really good luck with Suffix Performance Braid (in 65#) but it's getting pretty tired now after 2.5 seasons. My wife's setup has 80# PP, and I have to admit I like the Suffix much more. Seems to cast smoother, but I think when push comes to shove, either line will hold up to a fish. Before using Suffix Braid, I used to use 30# Berkley Big Game, and after losing several larger fish, I switched and have not looked back! Granted, braid has less abrasion resistance, and costs a bit more, but most of my fishing is away from rock/sharp objects, and I don't mind shelling out a few more bucks for braid. I'm more confident with braided superline on my reel, and I think that's incredibly advantageous. There is a mental aspect to our sport as well.

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I figure if your reel is big enough for mono, why not use it? I forget that some of you can't, but I often fish mono next to braid. Mono seems to get hit a slight bit more in certain conditions. And if your fish gets wrapped around a log, which one is going to break first? I had really given up on mono until I got broken off like 5 times one night at an ugly spot.

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I will honestly say, I have never had 80# Suffix performance braid bust off. When I am in a snag, I have to grab my minnow net wrap it around the line about 20 times, and pull hard to get it to snap. But line is like a fishing pole, or a fishing hole, its all in what you like, and what you are confident in. If it is working for you, there is no need to change!

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I run 100# with 80# leader. I snell all my hooks. Typically in a snag I come back with a weight and swivel. My line fails after the swivel with a Palomar knot. No way my snell is coming loose from that hook. Either my hooks being bent straight out or my leader is failing.

9 times out of 10, I come back with a weight and swivel still attached with some line.

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That's why it's good to use a palomar knot. It will break close to knot most of the time.

If you are breaking loose at your knot, I would be using a different knot. Why create a weak link? You might as well just down grade your line to its breaking point.

I used to use 80# Suffix, then a 65# leader (braid), and when I snagged, it would always break in the leader. Perfect for saving line, and swivels, and weights, but if I wanted to save line, weights, and swivels, I would just stay home. I am not going to create a weak spot in my line, to save a few dollars a year. The fish in my avatar put my gear to the limit, and luckily I decided to stop using lighter line for a leader before I caught that fish, because I dont think I would have gotten it in if I had a lighter line on. In fact, my weak link, ended up being my pole, it didnt break, but I could feel it lightly cracking in my hand right above the cork handle. So this year I will be upgrading to a better pole, to eliminate the weak link again.

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I brought 2 packs of the #1s to the pour. I was at gander the night before and didn't remember what size was mentioned. Brian may have picked them up after people left. I probably should have said that I left them there so someone could use them in the future.

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If you are breaking loose at your knot, I would be using a different knot. Why create a weak link? You might as well just down grade your line to its breaking point.

I used to use 80# Suffix, then a 65# leader (braid), and when I snagged, it would always break in the leader. Perfect for saving line, and swivels, and weights, but if I wanted to save line, weights, and swivels, I would just stay home. I am not going to create a weak spot in my line, to save a few dollars a year. The fish in my avatar put my gear to the limit, and luckily I decided to stop using lighter line for a leader before I caught that fish, because I dont think I would have gotten it in if I had a lighter line on. In fact, my weak link, ended up being my pole, it didnt break, but I could feel it lightly cracking in my hand right above the cork handle. So this year I will be upgrading to a better pole, to eliminate the weak link again.

Everyone has a method to their madness, common fishing is way different from trophy fishing. I am just a common fisherman and feel better to have control over the known weak link rather than to chance it elsewhere. Since I'm sure that it's always my rod, that's the weak link in my set up. When it comes to lines, preservation of my main line is of another concern. I wouldn't want a weakend main line, due to pulling it free from a snag. Different knots with differnt holding strengths has beneficial use. I can therefore use the same line strength for a leader, while knowing I've got a slightly weaker knot for the leader end. Whereas trophy fishing is all about never creating a weak link, thus the logic as I understand is all about the right gear. Something that is typically beyond me, when I'm content to just hook up with something decent.

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That's why it's good to use a palomar knot. It will break close to knot most of the time.

I realize the knot will be the weak link, but if its breaking "close to the knot" then it has to do with how you tie the knot. Such as not using spit to lube the line when pulling the knot tight, or, not retieing the line often enough, when it has abrasions on it.

I know when I have a lot of line out, and I get snagged, I regret not having a weak link, but I just untie the boat, and try to recover as much line as possible, before having to snap the line.

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My problem is the knot isn't always the weak link as desired. Sometimes it just holds and the line is like imposibble to break. I hate it most when I'm hung up on timber. Sometimes the line breaks at the dowel where the line wraps overlaps and pinches onto itself.

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My problem is the knot isn't always the weak link as desired. Sometimes it just holds and the line is like imposibble to break. I hate it most when I'm hung up on timber. Sometimes the line breaks at the dowel where the line wraps overlaps and pinches onto itself.

Get your line snug then jerk it, should break ya loose real easy.

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Well, after 3 outings with the new Suffix 832 I have to say I like it. I have been fishing in an area with a fair share of rocks/stones, and so far no fraying to mention. I snagged up once, and it broke off right about my hook ... but it took a LOT of force to break 'er.

Oh, and I have noticed that it is considerably quieter than my old Suffix Performance braid. Just a fun fact.

Overall I am pleased so far, and at only 19 bucks for a spool, ya can't beat it! Go pick up a spool!

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