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ducker

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Got the sled back from the shop early last week. Goes forward and reverse, very happy. Going through deeper powder last night and gave it full throttle to power through and felt like the track slipped not that the track spun but slipped. It happened again later but not all the time. Just at rapid acceleration. 2000 Panther. Would that have anything to do with the suspension being cranked up as high as possible for two riders and carrying the auger? It could have been a chain slip but felt like the track slipped where it meets the drive mechanism.

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Its very possible that it "slipped". Its called ratcheting and usually happens when the track is too loose and under a harder accelleration. The track is actually jumping over the drive cogs on the drive shaft when you hear it. Make sure the track does not hang (generally) any more than 1/2 inch from the slides when you suspend the rear of the sled. Make sure to check it after you ride it for a short while. If you do tighten it up, make sure to turn the adjustments equal amounts on both sides to keep it in alignment.

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Its very possible that it "slipped". Its called ratcheting and usually happens when the track is too loose and under a harder accelleration. The track is actually jumping over the drive cogs on the drive shaft when you hear it. Make sure the track does not hang (generally) any more than 1/2 inch from the slides when you suspend the rear of the sled. Make sure to check it after you ride it for a short while. If you do tighten it up, make sure to turn the adjustments equal amounts on both sides to keep it in alignment.

Yes, what he said.

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I think Mac55, maybe right on this one, but let me ask. Were you on a lake in deep snow when this happened? Sometimes you can hit a small slush pocket and your track will spin a bit and you may never know you hit slush if you kept going and never looked back. confused

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Nope. I was in a ditch the first time it happened and then on a groomed trail and decided to hit the gas. IT definitely sounds like ratcheting. Going to check the track tension tonite. Assumed the shop would have checked that when they setup the suspension but you know what assuming does.

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Since I bought the sled the track has been pretty much snow covered. It thawed out and I noticed the cogs on the inside of the track that guide the idler wheels are pretty beat up. Is that normal wear and tear for a track with 1600 miles on it? I'm trying to figure out why they would have been chipped and ground down to about half their normal size. Help again please.

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Its not normal wear at all, but is possible if the track has been loose and ratcheting for a while or if one or more of the drive cogs are damaged. Thats what is happening when itracheting is the track is jumping over the cogs.

Also check the ALL the idler wheels to make sure there are no chunks missing from the rubber part.

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Quote:
Macguyver, it is the cogs/knobs on the track, not the drive cogs. It is the center two rows that are beat up. I will check the shock
I understand that, and the shock idea is a good bet too! What I was saying is that a loose track jumping/ratcheting for a long time could damage it in a similar way too, especially if the drive cog has damage. They are a much harder material than the track and it may have been doing it to the previous owner for a while too. Its tough to say without seeing the damage, but its likely that if its damaged enough to slip, a new track will be needed.
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Macguyver, it is the cogs/knobs on the track, not the drive cogs. It is the center two rows that are beat up. I will check the shock.

Is it on one side of the track or both sides? If it's only on one side your track alinement is off. If it's both your track maybe to loose as others have said and your track wonders back and forth from one side to the other out of alinement with the lugs.

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Also if it is a bearing the chain could be jumping on the sproket.Look underneath at the ends of the driveshaft and see if the shaft is still centered in the flange.If it is bad you should be able to notice it pretty easily.These bearings usually dont get greased enough as it is even hard to notice the zerk fitting down below the clutch.

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Not good...You need a track! Did the suspension arms and shock mounts look ok? If so, I'd take a really good look at the condition and alignment of the drive cogs when you have it out.

One time I replaced a track for a guy who had studs, and one of the studs tore partially out and somehow got folded inside and was chewing up the drive cog pretty bad. It didnt look near as bad as yours though, but made a pretty good rumbling noise.

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This happened to me when I changed tracks and drive bearings recently. put everything back together, went for a ride to the end of the driveway and back and knew something wasnt right. apparently spring tension pushed the mount over when the suspention was out of the track and I overlooked it when I put it back in, I only nicked a couple of the drive lugs tho. I used a winch strap to hold it in position while putting the suspention back in the second time around.

Just a guess..I suspect that the guy you bought it from had it apart to fix something (drive bearings etc) and when it went back together he had something screwed up in the chain case that caused your original problem and the mount was over looked upon replaceing the suspention.

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doubtfull, only if he had the suspention out. to stiffen, the adjustment is done by turning the 2 blocks (part 18) to the thickest position. should be in your manual. Or, did he put heavier springs in?

So, is the shock mount in the wrong place?full-24-5428-image.gif

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They didn't put heavier springs in. The sled is back at the shop so I can't tell you if the shock mount is in the wrong place. I'm going to check on that though. I know they did more than turn the two blocks. I guess I could call the previous owner and ask if they had any work done on the track/drive/suspension. Stay tuned.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • got this tackled today took about 3 hours to get both sides done. Didnt even get to use a torch....   Thought I was golden with just jacking it up and I could get to everything but no luck. Had to remove the entire axle hub and brake assembly to get to what I needed. Was a pain but still better then taking off the entire pivot arm.    Axle bearings were already greased and in great shape thankfully. Got both leaf springs installed and its ready for the road again.   Probably going to have my electric brakes checked, I am not touching anything with the brake drums. Based on what I saw it doesn't look like my electric brakes have been working anyway. Brakes are nice to have if its slippery out
    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
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