Separating a ball joint from a steering knuckle.

[caseymcq]

I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT I am trying to do some work on. One of the hurdles I have not been able to get over is getting the steering knuckle separated from the lower control arm (ball joint). I have tried with a pickle fork and I am guessing the fork just big enough to put enough "wedge" between the two.

Anyone have any suggestions? Tips? Tricks?

[Scott K]

2 Big hammers. One on one side of the knuckle where the joint goes in, then strike the other side with the other hammer. A good 3-4 hard whacks, and it should pop right out!

[jeffreyd]

i concur, but you have to use a decent weight hammer. a claw hammer wont get it. mini bfh is best. good luck

[leech~~]

2 Big hammers. One on one side of the knuckle where the joint goes in, then strike the other side with the other hammer. A good 3-4 hard whacks, and it should pop right out!

Throw some heat to it as well!

[caseymcq]

I just beat that thing like it owed me money... wouldn't budge. I am using a pretty good sized hammers. Do I need to get one of those separator tools?

[Scott K]

I just beat that thing like it owed me money... wouldn't budge. I am using a pretty good sized hammers. Do I need to get one of those separator tools?

Are you using two hammers? 3-5 lbs each?

[caseymcq]

The one hammer is definitely at least 3 lbs. The one hammer may be a little smaller... should I get another bigger one. I was whaling on it with the bigger of the two.

Just so I am under standing you right, one hammer basically on the "front" side of the knuckle and one on the "back" side of the knuckel, right? (front and back relative to the front and back of the truck). And then smacking the knuckle with one of the hammers.

I am seriously considering a horse with the way this job is going... ...

[Scott K]

Yes bigger hammer may be needed, they can be a pain. From where the balljoint is in the knuckle, hold one on to one side of it nice and tight, the other beat hard!

[leech~~]

If I remember right there are two sizes of pickle fork gaps, one smaller then the other. Does the one you have fit pretty tight or does it have a pretty good gap around the joint? If it is the loose one you may not be getting any good pressure out of it?

[mechanico]

Yes, hammers are good! Be careful to leave the castle nut on by several threads, and keep some of the tension from the spring on it, and it'll help you pull it loose. If you don't leave the nut on the spring could hurt you.

[caseymcq]

I think I am going to stop beating now...

The knuckle started to crack. I am going to borrow a tool from a parts store that has that program and see if that will do the trick. That thing just won't budge. I soaked it in pentrating lube... beat on it, tried pickle forks... nothing. I am planning on replacing the knuckle and obviously the ball joint... hopefully I can get them off the truck...

[BobT]

Here's how I've taken most of my tie rod ends apart without that fancy mechanic's fork. Instead of using two hammers you might try this. Maybe it'll work for you.

Do you have a stout pry bar? Slip the bar in there in such a way that you can apply pressure to separate the parts. Now take one of your hammers and give the side of the socket a good pop. I've never had this fail even using just my 16oz. ball peen hammer.

This may seem like a dumb question and I don't mean to belittle but in the photo you posted showing the crack, I noticed the nut was still on the rod end. Am I misunderstanding something?

[caseymcq]

Not a dumb question at all. The picute doesn't show the gap very well, the nut is still on but very loose (I took it all the way off and then put it back on with my fingers). There is more than enough room for the knuckle to pop.

Turned out the parts store didn't have the tool I was talking about...

[leech~~]

It maybe Torch time!

[311Hemi]

Is there enough room to get a ball joint press in there? Harbor Freight usually sells them pretty cheap.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Do you have the upper separated already?

[caseymcq]

The upper is separated already. There again, it is still on, but it is just on with the nut put back on with my fingers. I figure I would have everything still in place so in the event this came loose there would be some "boundaries". This is one of last things to have to come loose... and of course it is being the most difficult... ... ... Gotta love the truck...

I don't think there is enough room right now to get a press in there. I am having an equally difficult time getting the hub assembly off so the cv joint / axle is still restricted in how far it can be moved. Gotta love all the corosion holding these parts in place

Is getting that ball joint out of the lower control arm / A-arm too terribly tough? Is pressing a new one in tough? I have seen the presses (they look like clamps?) and I know the parts store has them available on a "loan-a-tool" program.

I work on it all a little bit at a time. I have been spraying penetrating lube on the parts and letting it soak a while. Then I try working it a little more. On a postivie note, I have got some new tools out of this "adventure". God bless the inventor of the 25" 1/2"-drive breaker bar That was able to loosen bolts that my impact wouldn't budge.

It is times like these it makes me happy we have three vehicles...

[Macgyver55]

I've had to get "creative" with some of these before. Try this, leave the nut on loose like you have it, then use a bottle jack, and position it directly under the stud. Jack it up so the weight of the vehicle is supported by the stud on the jack. Then, give it a few good cracks on the side of the knuckle hole where you were hitting before. Make sure you have jackstands in position to support the vehicle if it drops some when/if it comes loose. If this doesnt work, heat is about the only thing left to try.

[jeffreyd]

they can be buggers to come off, i worked with a guy who could get them apart using the 2 hammer method every single time. I would spend days beating and cussing walking away from it for a bit, go get him, he would simply sneak up on it and smack it once and it was out.

[caseymcq]

FINALLY!!!

I went to the hardware store and bought some MAP gas. Put that on my propane torch and heated the knuckle for about five minutes. Once it was good and hot I put the pickle fork in, pounded it all the way in, gave it three good wraps and it came loose.

Good bless that man or woman that put MAP gas in a bottle and sold it. My garage looked like Cheech and Chong were visiting but I really think that did the trick.

I want to thank everyone who posted with advice, lessons learned, shared experiences, etc. You were a good support group.

[mechanico]

ATTABOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Scott K]

Good to hear!

[leech~~]

Throw some heat to it as well!

And how many days ago did I say that!!! Glad to hear!

[caseymcq]

I had been throwing some heat on it just not enough. I had started with the propane torch which apparently just didn't get it as hot as it needed to be. Tha MAP gas seemed to be what I needed.

Thanks again to all you guys.

I am leaving it alone until after Christmas (we have family at our house) but the next adventure will be pressing out the lower ball joint.

[croixflats]

What I do with the ball joints is take the whole knuckle assembly into a shop and have them press the old ones out and put the new ones in. Sometimes they can be a bugger getting out also. One set I tried torching the middle out to relieve pressure. It worked but after the second one's red hot insides blew past my head like an asteroid I wont do that again.