Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Walleye's


walleyemaster08

Recommended Posts

What lake? confused

Same structure as late fall typically. Morning/evening bites in 18-28 feet is typically where I get eyes in winter.

On some lakes walleyes can be caught super shallow in winter. For example, Little Birch Lake in Todd County. I've had walleyes in 9 feet of water.

Depends on the lake. Just search for them or find someone who knows the lake better.

Good Luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For early ice I also like the late-fall locations - rocky humps and reefs close to shore, steep breaklines close to shore that have weeds and rocks mixed on them etc. As early ice changes to mid-winter and late winter, the fish will slide out to the deeper basins and the off-shore structure. There will be fish in those spots at early ice too, but I like the shoreline-related and 1st break stuff for early ice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For early ice I also like the late-fall locations - rocky humps and reefs close to shore, steep breaklines close to shore that have weeds and rocks mixed on them etc. As early ice changes to mid-winter and late winter, the fish will slide out to the deeper basins and the off-shore structure. There will be fish in those spots at early ice too, but I like the shoreline-related and 1st break stuff for early ice.

I agree, and that is where I get them too. The one lake I fish, there is a sandy-mud flat that comes up to 6-9FOW and we normally get them until 1st part of January.

Sniffer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

for first ice walleyes, i like to find a feeding shelf/flat and it needs to have a steep drop off with deep water close by. I favor quick breaks that rise and flatten into a flat, or a "feeding flat". work these areas at different depths according to the time of day. Fast breaks maximize a walleyes use of energy and area. They can cover more depths in the small amount of linear space. It is best for these spots to have hard bottoms, preferably rock or gravel. The absolute best type of these spots is the ones that have whats left of the weeds and weed edges next to them. If you were open water fishing in the boat in the past 2-3 weeks, you should have taken note where the remaining weed patches were in the lake. If you can add this to the equation, you are in for some great fishing. My theory is NOTHING is too shallow or too deep when your talking weed edges. If you can find them, fish them! find the steep drop off that is next to the weed edge. Get out there with the auger and swiss cheese that structure. Drill a bunch of holes all the way from the shallowest point to the deepest. Get out of your portable and do some "trolling" (Tony Roach style). If you guys have ever had the privilege to fish with Tony like I have, you will see what it really means to be a mobile ice fisherman. Just grab your rod, flasher and a baitpuck with 10 minnows or so in it and hole hop!

There are a million other places I could talk about too for first ice, but I am going to keep it simple. Drop a Northland Rattlin Flyer Spoon or a Swedish Pimple tipped with a minnow head in one hole, and a setline with a shiner or chub in your 2nd hole (if you set up on the honey hole).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.