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Cutting through plaster walls


SkunkedAgain

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If the hole is going to be on the small size I would use a hole saw. When I say small I mean under a 5" hole. Any bigger then that you are going to need power tools that could cause major cracking if you are not careful like a skil or jig saw.

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I need to do a hole in the ceiling big enough to mount a new ceiling fan (no hole or light fixture exists there). I'll also need to cut some rectangles for wall switches.

It looks like I'll finally be buying a Dremel or Rotozip. Is one better for this type of job? Does one have more universal applications?

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I need to do a hole in the ceiling big enough to mount a new ceiling fan (no hole or light fixture exists there). I'll also need to cut some rectangles for wall switches.

It looks like I'll finally be buying a Dremel or Rotozip. Is one better for this type of job? Does one have more universal applications?

Will you have power in the ceiling and what about running wires to the switch ?

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Our living room has a ceiling light fixture in the corner of the room with the associated light switch hidden behind a bookcase (bad renovation by the previous owner). I bought a new ceiling fan/light combo and will be cutting a hole in the center of the ceiling. I'm going to put a junction box where the existing switch is, run that power to the two new switches, and then up to the new fan/light fixture.

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If you can pull the wire to the switch to a new location that would be better then having a J box in your living room. Or at least put the J-box in the basement. Better yet would be to eliminate the J-box altogether in case you do improvements down the road where a J box would put a snag in new plans. Just back up to the box that feeds the switch and go from there. Remember you can't cover up a J box.

You'll need to get blocking or a hanger for the box that the ceiling fan is mounted to. Can you get access from an attic? If the rotozip is a one time use for you then just use a sheetrock saw or jig saw to cut the hole. What you have is plaster over a 3/8th plaster lath board, it looks and cuts like sheet rock.

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Yeah, I do have complete access to the attic which makes this project much easier. Good point about the j-box in the wall. I'll just pull the old BX cable, make a new connection in the basement, and then send that back up the wall to the proper spots.

The whole point of this post was to make sure that I didn't get a bunch of crumbling plaster around my hole.

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Check the local rental stores buy the right bit for the rotozip and go rent one to save some cash most plaster has mesh in it if there is no lath to hold it together wich can be really trick if not impossible to use a jab-sheet rock saw.

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Check the local rental stores buy the right bit for the rotozip and go rent one to save some cash most plaster has mesh in it if there is no lath to hold it together wich can be really trick if not impossible to use a jab-sheet rock saw.

We don't see much mess in residential around here but if the OP has that then for sure the rotorzip is the best way to go.

Good Luck

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My last house has plaster over gypsum board (or "rock lath") and I cut many clean holes for electrical access with a good old push type hand sheetrock saw. Why spend a bunch of money on a Rotozip for one or two holes?

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I taped around my spot in the ceiling and used a 4" bi-metal hole saw to go through the plaster. It worked perfectly! For the switches, I drilled pilot holes and then a regular drywall key saw to cut out rectangles and that worked perfectly too. Thanks for all of the help.

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