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stuck on the ice


Champs

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I have never really snowmobiled. But I bought one 10 days ago for ice fishing...winter boat. 2000 Polaris Indy Classic 500 touring. Anyway I took it from my house out on the lake so about 7 mile ride and when I got to my spot the machine idle down low and immediately quit. I didn't think too much about it then. After fishing I went to start it and nothing happened at all. I had to leave it over night and then yesterday I went out there with new plugs and fresh gas and still couldn't start it. Went back again last night and checked to make sure the plugs were getting electricity and pull my portable in. Electricity was good. Then I noticed leaking gas coming from the exhaust pipe. So it is probably a needle and seat thing or something. But someone was telling me that if I remove these two little plugs on the side of the engine the gas that is leaking into the motor would come out and I might be able to get it started. What do you guys think?

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If it is gas coming out of the exhaust it is possible that the block has raw fuel in it. If so draining it is the only way you will get it going. Even then you'll need to correct the problem with the carbs before using it more than just getting it off the lake, or you'll be back in the same "boat" again.

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Hope you got it off the lake by now.

Yeah your carb(s)inlet valve(needle and seat)is letting gas by.

Either a piece of crud got stuck in there or the needle tip is worn out. Or the float level is off. For now shut the gas off so it isn't continually running through the carb and into the crank.

On the bottom of the carb you can remove a trap plug and drain the bowl. Turn the fuel on and remove the plug. Any junk will run out, the float will drop when the bowl drains and if there is any thing caught in the needle and seat it might get flushed out. Turn the fuel off and replace the plug.

If you look around you might find a drain screw on the lower crankcase, not sure though.

Remove the spark plugs and inspect. Throttle wide open, using the recoil turn the engine over repeatedly to blow out the fuel. Replace the plugs and try and start. Leave the choke off and fuel shut off. If it starts keep a high idle, turn the fuel on and get out of there and on the trailer.

No start then pull the plugs and inspect. If they're wet repeat the drying out sequence, replace the plugs and try again.

If the plugs are dry, turn the fuel on and choke like normal.

If it starts get out of there and back onto the trailer.

When you get home have the carbs cleaned and new needles and seat.

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Polaris machines will have 10mm drain plugs below and under the exhaust manifold, at the bottom of the crank case. Remove the drain plugs, and allow the raw fuel to drain. Replace the drain plugs. Sounds like the carbs need to be gone through.

dukhntr

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Follow above advice and you should be able to start it.

and I know this sounds dumb, but if all else fails check the kill switch. It wouldn't be the first time wink

and just as a heads up for something else to check. I had fuel intake hose break off in my tank last year. So it appeared that everything was working fine, but in all reality basically ended up running out of gas when the level dropped below the broken line.

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Follow above advice and you should be able to start it.

and I know this sounds dumb, but if all else fails check the kill switch. It wouldn't be the first time wink

hahaha i "thought" i ran out of gas on the ice this past weekend.. walked 3 miles home... get back and i accidentally hit the kill switch blush

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Hi everyone, thanks for your replies. I didn't get it started but I was able to get off the ice yesterday afternoon and onto my trailer. Kind of stinks to drive it for 15 miles and now have an expensive problem. Anyway I took the spark plugs out and unscrewed the a screw (I think it was the wrong screw) and then turned everything off and pulled the rope and gas just shot out of where the spark plugs go. I got all the gas out and then I was putting everything back and then I tested the plugs for electricity and now that was not working. And about then my dog was shivering and my help was due at any time. So I don't get the no electrical current with the spark plugs but I think I was getting close to getting it started but oh well. Off to the mechanics. But the good part was I learned some good stuff going through this and at least it was my local lake. Thanks all.

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After thinking about it when I was pulling my cord to get the gas blown out of the motor I have the key to off and the kill switch to off too. Maybe I needed to have the kill switch on after I got the gas out in order to check the electricity flowing to the spark plugs...seems like that may have been my error not turning that back on. I believe I was a kill switch away from trying to start it. But alas the kill switch was not the reason for being stuck on the ice. I think we determined it to be needle and seats problem. Thanks again.

Whats the etiquette on this situation? I only drove the sled 15 miles. Buyer beware; all sales are final...that kind of thing. Or should I try to get half the of repair bill from the 3rd party I bought it from? Probably not as I know that person pretty well and why screw up a relationship I suppose. He got every penny out of me for what the sled was worth...guess I'm screwed.

Champs

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Champs,

I would say that you are handling it better than i would. For the etiquette, as-is sale. Anyone would say to ask the person to pay for repairs, but in the end, if they say no, you have no recourse, and just more frustration.

But there is a bright side!! You will learn how to clean a carb. Very straightforward, and lots of information on how to do that. There is no need to pay someone else to do that. And a cleaning is an event you will want to do again some day, some do it every year. There are several big parts places online, cheap and quick shipping. With a sled, you have to know at least basic repairs, and they can be figured out, or ask here and people will help. And the satisfaction from self repairs is part of the fun. FUN??? Well it is to me anyways.

One suggestion, if you are taking the carb off, i would also get a fuel pump kit, and check all hoses going to the carbs. New fuel filter.

Good luck. And if you fix it yourself, and say parts are $75, if you know the seller well, maybe just mention that you only got 15 miles and it broke down and cost 75 to fix(said in a friendly sort of way) maybe he will feel bad and help pay. Never know.

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Ditto to what maxx said. The seller didn't know this was going to happen, and it is an older sled. Fix it yourself, you will find it easier than you think, and cheaper too. If I can do carbs, any other monkey can as well wink

The guys here helped me through an outboard carb rebuild job, that turned into fuel pump rebuild, that turned back into a carb job because I put in float upside down! haha! But know I am not afraid to tear any carb apart, and know more about stuff should I get stuck on the ice or out on the lake.

Good luck, and ask questions here, ANY questions - the guys are really helpful.

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I think that is the same engine I have and I did my carbs pretty easily last year.

Turn off fuel supply

Remove airbox

Remove throttle cable

Remove Chokes

Remove Oil pump connection arm (this was the trickiest in my opinion)

Loosen rubber boot carb clamps

Pull carbs from rubber boot

Both carbs should be in one assembly so you don’t need to worry about mixing them up

Remove the bottom of carbs and you will find all the good stuff, floats, gaskets, jets, etc.

Clean everything up good with carb cleaner/compressed air and reassemble everything in the reverse order.

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Needle and seats is easy if you buy them. My outboard can as a "kit" not sure sleds do it that way or not. Just watch carefully how they come out and put them in EXACTLY how you took htem out. I actually took some pics and that honestly helped, as I could tell when I compared my upside down float to my original pics, ha!

edit - oh yeah, on the jet just put tape on screwdriver so you have a point for reference, then count the revolutions as you tighten it all the way in, usually about 1.5 turns. Then screw it all the way out and clean it and the carb, then screw it back in all the way, and then turn it out the 1.5 turns (or whatever it was set at).

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