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    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
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Sandmannd

Wave Wackers

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Looking for more information on them. I don't do a lot of back trolling and have a bow mount trolling moter. My boat is also a console boat. But the gas tank is down where the motor sits and I get water that comes up over the back. I'm sure this would cut down on that. What are other advantages? What are the costs of these? Are they worth the coin?

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I dont use them, but everyone that i have talked to about them, adn the people that have bought them, love them and would never get rid of them. There not to much money, but i dont know what they are selling for being i never use them.

If you are looking for something to stop the problem that you have, this is what your going to need.

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Shane, they are nice to have even just for backing into waves for whatever reason. It's nice to stay dry.

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Thanks, where can I pick some up and are the Splash Guards cheaper. Kinda looking for a les expensive way of doing it cause I'm cheap smile

Boatfixer, just noticed you live in Grand Rapids. I was just up there for a wedding this last weekend. I shoulda looked you up.

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Take a look at whitecap brand splash guards. They're cheaper than the wave wacker brand splashguards. I think the Wave Wacker brand ones are a bit nicer, but they both do the job adequately.

marine_man

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Thanks Rob as Whitecap is the brand I have.

Sandmann, check the Chaska or Shakopee area phone book. They will ship to you and they are very easy to install with very few tools.

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I've been considering these also for my Crestliner Sport Angler, but I'm wondering if I can still snap my cover on without removing them. I have 3 snaps on each side of the transom. Then the cover actually goes into and around the splash area of the motor.

Anybody know if they have to be removed for that type of cover to fit. I'm going to see if they have a web site with pictures.

Nels

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if the purpose to back troll is to slow your trolling speed, why not just get windsocks or troll with 5 gallon pails on each side?? i use 2 5 gallon buckets on each side when trolling and it does slow you down

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Nels - I'm guessing you'll have to remove the splash guards to make your cover fit.

tacklejunkie - the advantadge of back trolling is that you don't have to contend with windsocks or 5 gallon pails, ropes and concerns about tangle.

marine_man

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I know a lot of folks back troll with tillers. I haven't with my main motor in my boat. Is it fine to do with a console? Harder to do?

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There's nothing that says you can't backtroll with a console. It'll be more difficult to do though as you can usually get better backtrolling control on a tiller motor than you can on a console. Hence the tiller vs console discussion.

marine_man

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Yea, that's the part I was getting at. But I just might have to try it once I get my boat back and will probably put some form of wackers on it before doing it as well.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
    • Perfect that awnsers my question. Why spend $250 when I could spend $150 on a new lazer bit and cuts faster, it’s more durable but still about same weight and a chipper but. Really a no brainer. What are you seeing for drilling time with that 8 inch lazer?
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