Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Saw Fly Larvae on pines


FishNovice101

Recommended Posts

Every spring I dread the appearance of the SawFly Larvae. I grew up around pines, but is was not until about 4-5 years ago that I found these nasty little worms on our pine trees in Andover. Nothing seems to take care of them.

Has anyone had any experience with these? Any luck getting rid of them?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My weakness in the area of arboriculture is entomology. I can't really suggest a way treat the trees.

One thing I do know is that as soon as you see an infested tree, removed asap and dispose of the wood.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I searched on "pine sawfly treatment" and found this from Ohio State.

Control Hints

Best controls are obtained when the larvae are still small, so look for the straw-like needles left behind by the young larvae. Inspections should be made in late April and early May. The egg laying scars can also be seen by inspecting the needles in late winter.

European Pine Sawfly

Strategy 1: Natural Controls - Several parasites have been introduced to control this pest and native birds feed on the larvae. Rodents often eat the pupae in the soil. These agents are usually not adequate in urban settings.

Strategy 2: Mechanical Control, Egg Removal - If the needles containing overwintered eggs can be found before they hatch, they can be pulled off the plants and destroyed. Do not simply through on the ground since the eggs can still hatch.

Strategy 3: Mechanical Control - Colonies of larvae can be easily removed by clipping off the infested branch. Place these branches in a plastic bag and destroy. Colonies can also be knocked off by sharply striking the infested branch. Crush the larvae or knock into a pail of soapy water. If few colonies are present, they can be controlled using these methods but large infestations are better controlled by general spraying.

Strategy 4: Biorational Insecticide Sprays - Several horticultural oils (often called "summer" or "verdant" oils) and insecticidal soaps are labeled for control of sawflies on ornamentals. These usually work well when the sawfly larvae are small and thorough coverage of the colony can be achieved.

Strategy 5: Spot Sprays of Insecticides - Many aerosol or hose end sprayable insecticides are available for spraying of colonies. This is usually adequate for most home landscapes. Nurserymen and Christmas tree growers often carry a small hand pump sprayer with an insecticide mixed for spot treating colonies. See Bulletin 504 for a listing of currently registered insecticides.

Strategy 6: General Insecticide Spraying This sawfly rarely infests large acreages unless controls have not been used for several seasons. General sprays may be warranted if more than 25% of the trees are infested. See Bulletin 504 for a list of currently registered insecticides.

Or check out

http://www.entomology.umn.edu/cues/Web/128EuropeanPineSawfly.pdf

Is that the critter?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quetico - I like your response. We having been talking about getting rid of the trees for a few years.

We have sprayed them - with no success. We have 9 pine trees, and they are all infected pretty heavily with them.

It's pretty gross when you come outside in the morning and your vehicle is covered with worms. Yuck!!

Thanks for the advice

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We would always get the little buggers too. Usually only the new growth on our balsem/fir trees seemed to get eaten, the tougher older needles were left alone. If I remember right, we used a product called "Sevin" and would spray the new growth on the trees with it. I think that some fruit tree sprays may also contain it.

Good Luck

Brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the problem with European Sawflies on my norway pines last spring. We have 18 on our property that are maybe 25 years old. Maybe 3 or 4 of them had the problem. My understanding is that they lay the eggs in the fall and they will hatch in mid to late spring. A tree isn't necessarily infected for good. If you get rid of them and prevent them from laying their eggs, it should be okaynext year.

I used Sevin last year also for the lower 1/3 of the branches. I used a water blast to remove larvae from the middle 1/3 of the branches. Couldn't reach the top 1/3 where I wanted to.

If you have smaller trees, there is a granular insecticide you can apply late in the fall that will be taken up by the tree, Bayer Advanced Garden Tree & Shrub Insect Control. In the spring, the eggs will hatch and the larvae are poisoned when they go to eat the needles. Cost me like $50 though just for 2 trees, so not a great option for larger older trees. Guess I'll see if it does the trick for the two trees I tried it on. I'm also hoping that maybe the cold weather we had this winter eliminated some of them, it got down to -34 at my house once.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been fighting them with Sevin for the last couple of years, and it kills 'em for sure. Last year we had fewer, and according to the bug lady at the DNR, if I'm thorough enough I may be able to eliminate them over time. I sure hope so, because the trees are getting to the point that its hard to reach the upper branches with my garden sprayer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sevin?!? You guys are hardcore. That's some nasty stuff.

The good news is that sawfly larvae are easy to kill, the bad news is they are usually a perennial problem because its nearly impossible to get them all and anyone who's dealt with insects knows it only takes one to make 100.

I think we used talstar or something as simple as horticultural oil.

A general insecticide will work on them. For my mugho pines I just hit them with dish soap and water and spray them off the plan with the hose. I rarely have a lot of damage.

If you've got tall trees or a major problem, consider hiring a tree service that has the tree spraying equipment. With the right gun and the pressure it wan not problem to hit the tops of 80ft trees. Anyone who does that service should have a Commercial Pesticide Applicators license.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good point about the Sevin. I used it last year, and then REALLY read the label. Not sure I'll put it on again this year. Probably just blast em off the branches early in the year with a pressure washer. Thought I had read somewhere that they do not usually climb all the way back into the tree?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For those who don't know if you have sawflies or are looking for them, they are usually hard to spot until you find damage and even then they can be tricky. If you're seeing areas where the worms have eaten needles down to their bases, float your hand close over the top of the branch and watch for movement.

There are usually 3-4 worms eating a single pine needle and they rear back on the hind end to display. You'll see the whole branch "move" because the worms move. Then you know if you' have them or not. They don't move quickly so it should be easy to find them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone seen these show up yet? I checked over the weekend to see if the larvae had hatched on my norway pines. Looked a few low branches over closely and didn't see anything. I'm wondering if they died over the winter since it was so cold? Probably being overly optimistic, it's only May 12th and maybe they haven't hatched yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not to burst your bubble but I found them today on my mugho pines. I took some pics but they didn't turn out very well.

The larvae are about 1/2 cm long right now. I laid it on my pinky fingernail for comparison but that pic isn't great either.

They are there for sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I now honestly think a lot of these saw flies died this winter. My thermometer read -34 F one morning at our house. I've been checking my norway pines very closely and have yet to see one even though the new growth is well on it's way. Last year they were very thick by mid to late May.

Venturing into the trails nearby in the norway pines plantation, I see some of them feeding away. But only on the lowest brances in the most central part of the trees. Those on the outside must have been less protected and had 100% mortality.

Anyone in Andover (I'm west of you in Ramsey) see any saw flies this spring?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.