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  • Birthday 04/13/1976

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    Zimmerman, MN
  1. are these what you are talking about? I had these last year, but they didn't stay aroung for long. Now they are back again this year.
  2. It was not the vent. I had it happen again last night, so with is still vapor locked I opened the vent coupling. It never relieved any pressure. Once I opened the discharge coupling, it relieved the pressure and worked properly. This morning I drilled a small hole just above the water line. Everything is working just fine so far. I has been through at least 20 cycles with no vapor lock. Thanks for all the help and hopefully this problem has been solved. I'm still not sure what caused this problem though.
  3. Well, it happened twice in a row now. Last night when the wife showered and this morning when I showered. All I needed to do is loosen the clamp on the coupling and then the water is pumped out fine. This gets rid of the vapor lock at the time. Tonight I will drill another small hole above the water line where the switch turns the pump on to see if that fixes this problem.
  4. The vent is actually screwed to the top of the cap using Teflon tape for the sealant on the 2" male threads. The street elbow is cement to the female side of the adapter and you can see from there on. So I know it is way above the water line. I haven't had any problems since this post started. I think the next time I have vapor lock, I will drill another small hole above the water line where the float turns the pump on. Thanks for all the input.
  5. Here is a pic of my set up. Let me here your thoughts.
  6. Good Point. Maybe I can get some pics tonight and post.
  7. Surface Tension, the hole I drilled is just above the 2" NPT discharge port on the pump. This might not be above the water line to relieve the pressure. Maybe I need to install a new section of pipe and drill the hole about 8-10" above the discharge port? I'm thinking out loud here, what do you guys think? So far it sounds like there is no clear answer to the vapor lock problem that I'm having. I'll keep gathering input from all of you to see if we can pinpoint something. Thanks again.
  8. This is exactly how I cure the problem. I loosen the union clamp until all the pressure vents then tighten them back up. I might go 3-4 weeks between happenings but I want to completely eliminate them.
  9. The pump that I purchased is a solid cast iron sewage pump with a grinder for solids. I have had no problems with the pump itself as it discharges 8-9 gpm. When I installed the new switch I cleaned it thoroughly to make sure of no blockage or build up of paper. I don't think that not enough water is an issue. We mostly use the sewage pump for showers, washing machine and going #1. You mentioned a good point of a good air tight seal. I think that might be my problem. When I went to replace the switch, the vent line was completely hard plumbed. To remove the lid I needed to unbolt the vent connection, but one of the bolts was stripped. I had to install a new bolt with a washer and nut on the backside. I think I might need a rubber gasket on the bolt head to get an air tight seal.
  10. The check-valve is cemented to PVC and not with coupling. I installed a spring check valve instead of a flapper per recommendations from research. So I need to ask if removing this would be just more work or should I still remove it? The pipe only holds about 2 gallons as you said. I learned this when I change locations of the check-valve as a shut-off valve wasn't installed. I had to place a bucket under the valve for the trapped waste to go. That was interesting. I should have come to FM first with my questions as I get real answers. Anyone can be writing advise through other forums. Sparcebag, this is a sewage/ejector pump for my basement waste. You are thinking about a sump pump for overflow of ground water. I have one of those also but it is always dry as I live on sandy soil. Thanks again
  11. Thanks for the advise Backlash. If I'm following correct I should remove the check valve or reposition it vertically like it was before, right? I wasn't a big fan of the clunking noise as I could here it throughout the house. I don't want to eliminate the check valve if it serves the purpose. After it leaves the basin it goes through a couple elbows and straight up, about 7' until it hits the grade. Should I still leave in the shut-off valve in to do maintenance? I would still need the couplings if the switch were to go bad, right? Does the hole hurt anything? It might not be helping but it would eliminate installing a new one? Thank for all your help
  12. Backlash I'm not sure I understand getting rid of the check valve. Everything I have read and even in the installation instructions of the pump has a check valve in the horizontal position. If you don't have a check valve in place the waste water in the line will go back down into the basin. Why get rid of the pipe I drilled the hole in? I called a plumber and that is exactly what he told me to do when I had the vapor loc the first time. It also clearly states that in the installation instructions. I'm not questioning anything you have said as I'm trying to understand it. Could you explain please. Thanks
  13. I'm not sure how many of you have a sewage pump in your basement, but this thing has caused me many headaches. I'll never buy another home with this again. Anyway, I have pretty much redesigned this set up from the original builder with new PVC pipe, new pump, new check valve and added a shut-off valve. My original problem was that the float would get stuck and fail to engage the pump and we had over flow. I fixed that problem with proper placement of the pump and float in the basin but still noticed the large clunk noise (water hammer)after the waste was pumped out. I then did some research and change the position of the check valve from vertical to horizontal. That worked wonderfully. Now I seem to get vapor loc occasionally and all I have to do is loosen the coupling and that fixes the problem until it happens again. I can go 2-3 weeks between happenings but if I'm not home when the water softener regenerates, I think I could once again have overflow. When I added the new pump and PVC I drilled a 3/16" hole in the PVC just above the pump discharge. I thought this was supposed to help but didn't. Anyone have any advise on how to get rid of this vapor loc?
  14. Kevin Smith against Atlanta
  15. He always has a down turn in the middle of the year. Pending any injuries, there is a chance for a 2 for 1 trade. Like I said, it would be an injury pending trade if I had him.
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