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question AMSOIL


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This is a wide open question. I will attempt to give good, general answers, difficult to do without posting an overt commercial type answer, but I will attempt ---

AMSOIL lubricants are all synthetic, designed and built to do the best job in their intended applications.

The 2-cycle oils are ashless, burn away clean leaving no carbon behind. They will run smokeless or nearly smokeless in all applications.

The 4-stroke oils are superior PAO, group IV basestocks with the best additives - they are designed and built on the molecular level.

What does this mean? They are slicker, reduce wear, give better fuel economy, whether in a 4-stroke outboard, a 4-stroke ATV, lawnmower, your car or truck or anything else.

Greases, filters, spray lubes, fuel additives - all are just designed to do a better job than the competition.

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A question for Theoilman. I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla. Toyota recommends Mobile 1. Is or would Amsoil be a major step up in protection? I currently change the oil once a year regardless of miles (typically under 10000). I also have an 2003 GMC with the 5.3. I am using Mobile 1 in it too. Would it also be advantageous to use Amsoil in it? Thanks for any advice.

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Tyler23 --

4-stroke - yes, AMSOIL does not break down like petroleum oils do.

To understand what makes AMSOIL better, you first need to understand what petroleum oil is made from. Petroleum oil is made up out of Brontesaurus, Terantesaurus, Teradactyls and Gopher Wood trees: whatever decayed, got buried in the earth, broke down and became crude oil. We are determined to pump it back out of the ground, distill it off and make gasoline, diesel, lubricants, waxes and tars and a whole host of other things. Because every molecule that went down is different, everymolecule of petroleum oil is different. It is a very complex hydrogen-carbon molecule with long irregular chains, that under the heat, pressure and loads in an engine tangle, tear apart and break down.

AMSOIL however is not made out of any part of what goes into making the petroleum "fossil" oil. AMSOIL is designed and built on the molecular level from smaller, lesser molecules so that all the molecules are the same and are nearly round without the long irregular chains.

Petroleum oil actually tangles, drags itself along actually making friction and heat. AMSOIL rolls and tumbles, is much more slippery, and the rolling and tumbling helps carry heat away.

Saber 2-stroke oils:

There are 2 different ones.

AMSOIL Saber Professional is for your air cooled 2-cycle pre-mix engines (auger, chain saw, string trimmer, blower, etc.) and AMSOIL gives you a safe lubricantion guarantee in all these at the lean ratio of 100-1 (stock engines only, high performance competition chain saws etc will have to be richer for sure). Many here on FM choose to be safe and use it richer, 80-1.

AMSOIL Saber Outboard is for your pre-mix water-cooled 2-cycle outboards, and as its companion product it too can be used at the lean 100-1 ratio.

Do NOT interchange the two products! It is NOT recommended!

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gunmunky --

Your Toyota dealer is apparantly the one recommending and selling you the Mobil1. Mobil1 is good oil, no doubt about it, however AMSOIL is better.

AMSOIL had an independent lab do an extensive test study of a number of different brands of lubricants, then printed the results with all the brand names.

Engine Oil Test, on-line version

Oil Test, pdf version

AMSOIL tested the best, Mobil1 averaged a good 2nd place. AMSOIL is definitely a step up in protection and performance.

For your vehicles I recommend the 5W-30 prod code ASL. It carries an up to 1 year or 15,000 miles severe duty service interval, whichever comes first. The AMSOIL oil filters are built with a synthetic nano-fiber media, not using a celulose base as others, and will do a better job lasting the full oil change interval. Part number EaO09 for the 1ZZFE 1794cc Toyota engine, EaO10 for the 2ZZGE 1796cc Toyota engine, EaO64 for your GM 5.3 engine.

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Many who are unconfortable to go that lean go in steps. If you are currently running petroleum at 40-1, start with the Saber at 60-1. See an improved performance. If the spark plug is filmy wet and the exhaust port is wet go leaner - another step to 80-1. Many FMers prefer to not go to 100-1, but settle on 80-1.

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ok so let me get this straight. it will benefit my engine to run a synthetic saber leaner than a petroleum richer? ive only ran 2 tanks of gas threw my new auger and i ran it with 40:1 intercepter since i already had that for my sled. it didnt smoke at all when i ran that stuff will the sabor be better?

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Compared to petroleum lubes yes.

However, comparing the performance of AMSOIL Interceptor being used as a pre-mix (leanest recommended ratio 50-1) to Saber (leanest recommended ratio 100-1) you will get little difference in performance due to the lubricant. However, you will probably get a performance improvement with the Saber due to less octane dilution - but still a performance improvement!

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Don, you mentioned chainsaws. I've run a Stihl MS290 for several years with Stihl oil at factory specs mix ratio. If I understand you correctly, you'd recommend Saber Professional (which I run in my auger at 100:1) for the Stihl at 100:1, correct?

Next question. I've got a 1989 90 hp Merc outboard that has pretty low hours and runs great (pre-mix, not oil injection). Anything for me to consider when switching to Saber Outboard at 100:1?

I got an old Yamaha 1980 Exciter 440 (oil injection) a few years back and switched to Amsoil Interceptor and noticed a difference in performance. I'd run Amsoil in my vehicles, but since they both burn and leak oil a bit, it would get too expensive. I've been sold on Amsoil since 1984, when my former father-in-law (an Amsoil rep and Air Force pilot) showed me the ropes. smilesmile

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Steve, you can expect the same performance with Saber Professional in your chain saw that you get in your auger. If you are unconfortable as lean as 100-1 use it at 80-1. I run my chain saw at 80-1 (a cheap Poulan I use for trimming around the house).

Your pre-mix outboard, just mix the next tank with Saber Outboard . With a permanent tank in the boat you will have a mixture of your previous mix oil - no problem, AMSOIL is compatable to mix with others. 8oz bottle per 6 gallons, qt per 25 gallons.

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Steve, my Stihl MS290 really likes running on the Sabre Professional at 80:1 as do the other pieces of Stihl equipment I have at the house and the Ice Auger. It's nice having one mix that covers all of my small two-stroke motors summer and winter. Only one can of gas to keep track of.

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Tyler23, DON'T be afraid to run the Amsoil!! I have 1 can of mix in my garage for my air cooled 2 strokes and I run them all @ 100:1. Ice Auger, It has been fed Amsoil since the 2nd tank of fuel from new. It ALWAYS starts easily, It has more power, NO big cloud of stinkin' blue smoke and I can open the holes in my perm without globs of black goo from the exhaust on the walls by each hole. Stihl Chain saw, Starts easily, runs smoother,more power, less engine maintainence, NEVER a fouled plug, exhaust smells good. String trimmer, same as the saw. I run Saber Outboard in my 3 outboards all at 100:1, including a 77 Jonny 25 that was a nightmare to keep running with dino-oil. Now it just purrs along smoothly and pushes the pontoon almost silently. I just recently changed my Motorcycle to Amsoil Motorcycle and in the 600 miles I've put on it since, I can see the difference in the performance, Turns over easier and runs smoother, I believe I've even picked up a 2-3 mpg increase in fuel economy. If you're more comfortable mixing at 80:1, start out there and see the improvements then you can lean out the mix to 100:1 later. Either way, you WON'T regret switching! Phred52

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