Mechanical Broadheads fly like field tips?

[B mac]

Has anyone had any luck with mechanicals flying like their field points?

I've shot muzzy's for years with minimal difference in flight compared to practice tips. However, this year they've decided to fly a little different.

I'm shooting better than ever this year with consistent accuracy out to 50 yards. So, I'm very reluctant to re-sight with broadheads. Plus, it's always a pain because of ruining an arrow or two when the arrows collide in the target. I'm thinking of switching to NAP Spitfires. Any thoughts?

Also, I'm dialed in at 90 grains. Noone, that I can find, makes a mechanical in 90. The closest is 85 or 100. Will there be a substantial difference between 85 and 90?

[Fish- N- Hunt]

Can I ask you what you like about mechanical broadheads? I myself have never used them, but I have heard that alot of the times to don't open up in time. I can count up to six different times when butchering deer that I shot, that I found mechanical broadheads that where still in the deer that where still closed. I have only found one fixed broadhead though. In my opinion, after seeing this I am a very firm believer in fixed broadheads. Have you ever considered fixed broadheads?

Fish- N- Hunt

[Rolly22]

I've tried the mechanicals before and like the way they fly, but had a quartering away shot and put it where I wanted to but the blades didn't open properly and the arrow just deflected off the animal. I use the 100 grain Muzzy's and come next year I will switch to the Montec G5's in the 100 grain. I know they're more expensive, but I've heard they fly great.

[NELS-BELLS]

I've used mechanicals for 4 seasons and I've never had a problem with them. I shot three blade fixed Muzzy's before. I shoot 100 gr. mechanical Sidewinders now, but I can't think of who makes it. They shoot the same as my field tips and I've killed 4 deer with them and every time the arrow passed clean through and opened as it should.
I like them and I especially like the fact that I know they are going right were I aim.

Nels

[B mac]

The Muzzy's I shoot now are fixed broadheads (90 grain 4 blade), but they are not flying true to the field tips. For this reason, I'm considering the switch to mechanical. I certainly appreciate the responses.

I would appreciate more opinions. Thanks.

[HOF#13]

I shoot the 3 blade 100 grain Muzzy's. I have found that I have to use a 125 grain field point when practicing to get the same accuracy as the broadhead.

Jason

[nuts]

NELS-BELLS -
The Sidewinders are made by Rocket. I'm going to be giving them a try this year. I hope they perform like you and everyone else I've talked to say!

[B. Amish]

test

[B. Amish]

test sorry

[This message has been edited by B. Amish (edited 09-01-2004).]

[metrojoe]

Sorry, can’t help you with expandables, but something must have changed with your set up from this year to last for your arrows to fly different.

You'll have to re-sight either way. Might as well save yourself a few bucks and use what you've got.

To avoid arrow collisions use multiple targets and shoot one arrow at each.

I still shoot 125 gr Muzzy’s but it seems 100 gr has become very popular with a lot of shooters.

[bigbucks]

I've shot 100 grain Thunderheads for years, they shoot fine, they're easy to find, & shoot almost as well as my field tips.

I can't really say too much about mechanical broadheads. My cousin shoots them & likes them. He did shoot a button buck one time, he thought it was bigger, & only 1 or 2 blades opened & it wound up just slicing the deer open from underneath. Fortunately it was open enough & a small enough deer it killed it within a very short time. On a larger deer, had that happened, he may not have been so fortunate. That wouldn't have happened with a fixed blade.

[Pooh]

fish n hunt
how do you know that the mechanicals never opened up? there is a good possibility that the arrow worked its way backwards and shut the blades on it. just puzzeled i guess. never heard of the ratio on finding broadheads like that. just curious. do you remember if the arrows attached to those broad heads were carbon or aluminum??

im a fixed blade man! they never fail. they shoot close enough to tips and are stupid proof!!

------------------
this is just my 2 cents
Pooh

[Fish- N- Hunt]

Pooh
That's a good thought that I can't really answer, but the majority of them were in the lower spine area above the vitals with no shaft on them. But for the ones that there was a part of a shaft on them, they were alluminium for what I recall. They all were lodged into the bone, so I have a hard time believing that they backed up? Like I said earlier though I have never shot retractables, but shoot fixed and have never had any get away on me yet.

Good Hunting
Only a couple weeks away!!!

Fish- N- Hunt

[TomBow]

I'd say metrojoe has it right, unless you've changed bows, arrows, rest, nock point or something else there's something else that has changed that is causing the broadheads to "suddenly" fly worse than previous years. Extreme temps can have an effect on bow hardware so you should never leave your bow in the trunk of your car, on a very cold or very hot day. How old is your string and harness (assuming you shoot a compound)? Have you papertuned your bow lately? If you've had the Muzzy's flying good before and they don't now, go back and look at your bow tune first before changing broadheads.
If the bow is out of tune, the string stretched, cam bushings are warped or the cams aren't firing at the same time, the arrows may fly well with field points (less wind resistance) but broadheads will exaggerate any bow-tune issues.
Best of Luck!

[Pooh]

thanks fish n hunt
i was just curious on the tally on arrow shafts. i know there was a post earlier that was asking about who likes which shaft. thanks for the recolecion on arrow shafts i will have to remember that

------------------
this is just my 2 cents
Pooh

[Iceman77]

If you shoot the same grain field points as you do broadheads then they will hit in the same place when tuned appropriately.

In many cases subpar strings and buss cables are the reasons to blame and will stretch with time, temperature, moisture content in the air...etc. There are many no stretch strings on the market today that I suggest to any bow owner. I custom make my own sets and use BCY 450 Premium for my hunting and target setups. This string material has no stretch when correctly made.

Here are the first things I do with a bow when things change.
1) Verify my shooting form has not changed slightly
2) Measure my true draw length on the bow to verify my string has not stretched(this would require that you have done this before and recorded the data)
3) Measure my draw weight and compare to previous data
4) Shoot the bow through paper and verify the tear still looks the same as before
5) "Creep tune" at 20 yards if the bow is a 2 cam bow. If you have a "solo cam" or a "cam and a half" bow then verify that you are in between the correct tuning marks. Contrary to popular marketing beliefs one cam bows also have a particular area they need to be within. Creep tuning on a 2 cam bow will guarantee that your cams are rolling over at exactly the same time. Too many archers believe you can measure the cams in a static "undrawn" position and make measurements and adjustments until it is correct. This would only work if you drew back on the string in the "dead center" vertical position. Also eyeballing at full draw doesn't get you close enough, therefore creep tuning is the only dynamic way to guarantee cam rollover. Very few people know about this process so if you want to learn post back and I will add the procedure.
6) Paper tune the bow so it shoots close to a bullet hole tear. Don't rely heavily on paper tuning as it has its flaws.
7) Bare shaft tuning. This is the key to having broadheads and fieldpoints hit the same spot from short to long distances. If you do not know how to do this procedure I can post that on here also. Each of my bows after bare shaft tuning will group broadheads in the same spot from 5-80 yards. After completing the above steps and having correct shooting form you can obtain your goals.

[TomBow]

For all, the Easton Archery HSOforum has the "Easton Tuning and Maintenance Guide" available for download. This contains great information on several tuning methods and basic bow set-up. It will really help you understand how a bow works and how to tune it for great arrow flight.

[frozen toes]

The expandables will fly as true as your field points. But My Thunderheads also fly just like my field points. As far as the blades not opening, I do not beleive that is true. If they have any penetration, they are going to open. Once they pass through and contact the ground, they "slam" shut, giving the false impression they did not open. If they are inside the animal, the arrow will work itself out and close the blades.

[B mac]

Again thanks for the information.

I purchased some mechanicals and they fly as true as my field points. I'm extremely consistent out to 50 yards. For this reason, I'm reluctant to change anything with the set-up.

I was a little concerned myself with the mechanicals not opening on impact because after they passed through the target, they were always closed. However, the cut through the target clearly shows it was opened. The instructions also had a similar warning about closing after the exit.

[Captain B.R.K]

I myself have mechanicals and am ready for the season to begin.
I had done a test with mechanicals (steelheads) and fixed (thunderheads). The arrows I was using was not able to hold up the fixed arrows. Every shot I took, everything was to the right of the target. When I shot a mechanical, it was as if I was shooting a field tip.
We'll see how they work with pentration to a whitetail and I will report.
From practice shooting, EVERYTIME my rubberband has broke and I've had the blades expand.....EVERYTIME.

Good luck.

[jblabsnduck]

I am not saying fixed broad heads are bad but I will never go back to them. I shoot the NAPs. IMO they are one of the best. I have NEVER had a problem with them not opening. Pass through shots every time.

[thore]

75 grain rockets work the best for me. I guess I'm curious why is everyone shooting such a heavy tip. I use the same set up from bear to turkeys to deer never had a problem. Would live to hear some philosophies about this subject. I believe penetration is the key to success in the field. Right next to waiting and making a good selective shot. As for mechanicals not opening up I can say that if you take a rocket and take the rubber band off and hold it up right the blades will open up.

My parting comment is if you have any doubts on the mechanical broadheads not doing their job then don't use them. Because confidence is a key element in bowhunting any game and you must have confidence in your equipment.

[TomBow]

Lemme see what I can do with the "heavy tip" question. My theory on this is previous to heavy use of carbon arrows which are considerably lighter, in most cases, than aluminums that are spined properly for a particular bow, heavier heads were used to balance the arrow, providing a better Front-of-Center (FOC) balance. In the earlier days of bowhunting in the U.S. (Fred Bear's era), the theory was probably to use a large head to get a better cut and a heavier arrow to get the most out of the energy coming out of the bow.
Nowadays, the mechanical engineers have produced bows with are capable of spitting arrows that weight very little in order to match or exceed the energy of the arrows of yesteryear (Jeez, I'm really diggin' up the creative vernacular here!). Lighter arrows are used today and some are well suited (balanced) to using lighter heads. I also think that there is more of a focus on shot placement so a smaller head can work just as well if it hits the animal in the right place and penetrates well (pass through). There's also the "it ain't broke..." issue, "this head worked for me and I get good flight so why change".
Why do you use those tiny little 75gr broadheads, you can't possibly kill deer with those (hey, I'm KIDDIN'!). Personal preference is in there too.
just curiou, What arrows are you using (brand, shaft model, length) out of what bow (draw length, model, draw weight)? There are alot of theories out there, I always like to get actual numbers so see what "real hunters" use and are successful with.
How'd I do??

[B mac]

TomBow,

Compliments on your archery knowledge. It's nice to have a resource like you to access for free info! Thanks. Do you run a shop? I'm planning to purchase a new set-up next spring and would like to buy from a knowledgable, reliable source.

[bigbucks]

Tombow, it is wierd about the grains on broadheads thing. When I started bowhunting, 14-15 years ago, almost everybody seemed like they used 125 grains. I decided to go with 100's because I was shooting well with that size field tip. Now I'm still shooting them & they seem like they're the "big ones" & a lot of guys use lighter ones than that.