Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Changing decks on trailers


Neiko

Recommended Posts

I haven't had to do anything with the deck but I did replace the wood on the ramp last year on my 4 place Pro 100. I didn't take the time to find what I would imagine is a marine grade plywood, I just used ordinary plywood which turned out to be a little thicker than what was on there, I used a electric hand plane to cut it down just a bit on the edges so it fit back in the slots. Marked my supports and drilled new holes for rivets and it was done, pretty easy process and even easier if you had the right plywood thickness.

Your deck shouldn't be much different.

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did one on for our trailer treated ply wood made slots for the tracks that are on it and now the tracks are about level with the top of the plywood wroks great. re drilled the holes for the ski holds and put some other loops to use it as a utility trailer also

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced the decking on my floe a few. years ago. I just drilled out all the rivets, replaced the deck with treated plywood and screwed down with stainless screws. My trailer is 10' and I could only find 8' so had to do in 4 pieces. It turned out really well and has held up fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing I've heard, I dont know if its true. But when replacing your decking I've heard not to use the AC2 treated ply wood from Menards. Something about the AC2 treatment that corrodes the aluminum or any metal for that matter. Just something to think about, I used to work at Menards and thats what some costumers told me. So you can take it for what its worth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So if treat plywood is not good. Then what should a guy use?? Regular plwood, then paint?? How about maine grade or is that the same as weather treated?

Was looking to redo the deck on my trailer this weekend. Any advise would be great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can always buy regular quality plywood, and then water seal it with thomspons, or another brand. I was meaning to treat my deck with waterseal this summer but unfortunately never got around it. I'm not sure what the exact type of wood was on my deck from the factory, but it was treated. It will be going on three years old in decemeber, and I'd like to keep it in good shape. Looks like it's starting to dry out a bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I always thought that it was just the Menard's AC2 green treat treatment that made the aluminum corrode. Such as if you use Home Depot or Lowes plywood(since they dont use AC2) you dont have this corroding problem. I'd use some type of green treated plywood, your trailer probably came with green treated wood, I know our floe trailer did. Heres what I would do, call floe or a dealer that sells them, they should know what kind of wood to use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I called the floe technical guy he said to use brown or green treated wood. Didn't mention anything about corrosion.

Really? I emailed them a few years ago and they told me they use marine grade plywood on all of their trailers. Mine was 12 years old when I replaced the decking, and it would have lasted longer if I had taken precautions to protect it from stud damage from my sled. I went with marine grade (exact match) and everything fit perfect with no warping or swelling compared to the treated stuff I've used on other projects. If you are planning to keep it long term I'd reccommend going with marine grade. It is more cost initially but will easily outlast the treated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • got this tackled today took about 3 hours to get both sides done. Didnt even get to use a torch....   Thought I was golden with just jacking it up and I could get to everything but no luck. Had to remove the entire axle hub and brake assembly to get to what I needed. Was a pain but still better then taking off the entire pivot arm.    Axle bearings were already greased and in great shape thankfully. Got both leaf springs installed and its ready for the road again.   Probably going to have my electric brakes checked, I am not touching anything with the brake drums. Based on what I saw it doesn't look like my electric brakes have been working anyway. Brakes are nice to have if its slippery out
    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.