Driveway Problems.... Pics Included

[mnvikingsfreak]

hello I have a few issues with my driveway im getting the classic cracks and buckles in the asphalt where it meets with the garage last week I parked my boat tounge on the crack and the weight made a hole in the asphalt I would like to try doing this myself but what I was thinking is filling the hole actually its the holes in the foundation blocks 22 inches deep with rock or sand and the top 3 inches use pothole filler and stamp it down and then sealcoat the whole driveway I used a chalkline 6 inches down from the garage where I can use a diamond blade circular saw and cut across the whole driveway and then chip away at the buckled asphalt well my question is am I getting over my head here and the steps I mention the correct ones to take to do this the right way? any tips or advice would be great! http://img379.imageshack.us/my.php?image=driveway2ih6.jpg

http://img379.imageshack.us/my.php?image=driveway1lo8.jpg

[Shack]

Mnvikingfreak,

I would say (IMO), the best and only way to cure this is to put in a 3-5’ concrete apron the width of the garage.

If not, it will only come back in time or look really bad. I have never been a fan of having asphalt all the way up to the garage slab. Never really seems to work out.

I always like rebar in an apron that has been put in place to cure this situation, but at least a series of rebar into the face of the garage slab with about 6” holes into slab and at least 6”’s of rebar out into apron and garage slab. After this, it would not be much to just do some 2’ on center rebar and tie off to the rebar stubs coming from garage slab.

Good luck!

[Roofer]

A little overkill, but I agree with shack.

[Shack]

Ya, it may be a little over kill, but tying in the apron to the garage slab is a must (Again IMO). It is very cheap to do (only cost’s a couple bucks and using a hammer drill), but you will know the apron will never pull away from the garage slab.

I know the cost of steel has trickled down to rebar, but it still is very cheap, easy to set up/pour around and last’s a life time.

Personally any concrete I pour for my self, family or friends, has 2’ on square rebar. Over kill: YES, but pouring in MN, it just holds those slabs and cracks much tighter. Most use 4' on center and is just as good as they say.

[MuleShack]

I had same situation at our old house and rented diamond saw and cut 2' out all the way across and filled block with class V and then poured concrete in. I did it myself as it seemed a small job but didn't use any rebar. We moved 2 years later so dont know if it the slab moved or not...but rebar couldn't hurt.

[mnvikingsfreak]

thanks for the advice everyone I did a little research on the internet and I found using pavers will work too next year I want to add a parking spot for my boat on the side of my house and I was going to use pavers for that so I could just have pavers for the front of the garage going into the side parking spot here is a picture of what it will look like http://img299.imageshack.us/my.php?image=paversdrivewaylj6.jpg I only have to replace 6-8 inches of buckled asphalt beyond that the driveway looks great its not sinking or anything.... yet thats why I have to jump on this now before it does how much is concrete to have it poured? could I just use the DIY bag mix?

thanks again

[King Canada]

The pictures reveal that the builder didn't corefill the block which caused the blacktop to simply settle in. Fix that problem and just about any material will perform successfully.

[boatfixer]

The mud will run you approximately $100-$110 per yard, but because of the small amount, you should expect to see an additional charge. Now thats just the redi-mix. If you have someone do the work for you, that just something that you will have to get estimates on from a contractor.

[MuleShack]

You sound like a do it your selfer, so you could rent a mixer and pour your self too. they even have the ones on wheels. you can mix like 4-5 bags at once and your done in no time with only a foot wide chanell to fill.

[mnvikingsfreak]

Yes I like to do things myself also im a little limited on funds I dont have $500.00-$1,000 do give to somebody else at this moment thats why I'm seeking advice I dont want to get over my head I bought a $30.00 diamond blade for my circular saw does anyone know if that cut through a asphalt 16 foot wide path pretty easy?

[sparcebag]

With that blade make your cuts shallow and make a few passes,I'd start at about 1" depth,I 'd also do it when its cool not in the sun it'll gum everything up and clog the cutting blade. Personally I would have purchased cheap concrete cuttin discs,cheaper and they wont gum up so much.But yet make a few shallow passes.

[Surface Tension]

As said, you'll need to core fill the block.

Cutting with a circular saw won't be easy. Its more of a matter if your saw will last the 16'. The amount of gumming, binding, and load will determine that. Take it easy, take series of multiple cuts setting your depth an 1" deeper each pass. Use a board as a fence to keep the edge clean and reduce the binding.

If your going to ad a parking area with pavers you could them as well against the slab. IMO it would make a nice accent.

[Tom7227]

I had an identical problem 15 years ago with my then 25 year old garage floor. I found a void under the floor that was huge - at least 3 feet long and 12-16 inches deep. I put in a lot of concrete pieces and washed in an incredible amount of sand to fill those voids and then even more to try and fill in the blocks. Over time it is clear that the void still isn't filled as I can hit the floor with a hammer and tell that it is hollow.

You may want to try to check and see if you've had some loss of material under the garage floor. Mine has cracked badly and there is some concern about it breaking free and the floor collapsing. Now is your chance to avoid the problem I am dealing with.

Good Luck.

Tom