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Oil life reset


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Gotta use those buttons on the steering wheel. Bring up your oil life with one of those buttons on the left side, then on the right side of buttons use the arrow key to reset it.

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If you don't have the steering wheel controls I think you have to turn the key to the run position and pump the gas pedal a certain number of times. As airjer stated it will be in your manual.

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Thanks guys... the wife is at wally world so I had her pick up some oil and filters. Time to save a little money for gas for the beast so I figure now that it is warm I will change my own oil. Duh, never thought of checking the obvious!!! Have a great day!

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Let me ask a related question-Why doesn't the engine oil life model itself around 3,000 miles? I think it said seventy something percent oil life when I had my oil changed most recently at 3K.

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It's based on engine parameters other than mileage such as RPM, etc. I don't recall all the things the ECM looks at to calculate the oil life, but it always shows a higher percentage when I change my oil too just because I don't wait until 7500 miles or whatever the manual recommends and is probably where the computer is set too. But like I said, depending on how the vehicle is driven it may come on sooner or later than that too. I never use the oil life monitor, but reset it when I change the oil anyway (if I remember) so it doesn't go into alarm in the future.

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No reason to change oil every 3000 miles with a reasonably recent vehical. On my diesel Sierra the recommendation is once a year or what the DIC says, and that has been around 9000-11000 miles. You can easily run 5000 miles on a decent dino oil and at least 7500 miles between changes if you choose a decent synthetic. Of course the only real way to tell is to have oil analysis done periodically and change according the results.

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No reason to change oil every 3000 miles with a reasonably recent vehical. On my diesel Sierra the recommendation is once a year or what the DIC says, and that has been around 9000-11000 miles. You can easily run 5000 miles on a decent dino oil and at least 7500 miles between changes if you choose a decent synthetic. Of course the only real way to tell is to have oil analysis done periodically and change according the results.

I dont recommend doing this because of a few different reasons

1) now days people dont check their oil, if they wait until 5-7k or whatever before checking their oil, it may have burned 3-4 qts of oil in this time. If your car only has 5 qts, its trouble!

2) unless your running a diesel, oil changes are real cheap maint. I would hate for you to wreck your engine and only saved $20 from an oil change!

3) Most shops thoroughly inspect your vehicle during oil changes. I would want mine inspected frequently as possible. Whether new with warranty, or old without. If it has warranty get in and get the problems fixed while you still have warranty. If not, the more you bring it in the less chance of getting a huge list of problems, you may just get 1 problem or none. No huge supprises!

4) If it has warranty and you have engine problems and only changed your oil every year at 10k, you might as well consider that there is no warranty, it WONT get covered!

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1) you should check your oil every fill up, your strawman argument doesn't hold water. To follow your argument then you should have your oil changed weekly - because who know's it might have dropped a quart.

2)Extended drain intervals won't wreck your engine. As long as you have sufficient fluid and the additive package is working then the oil is doing it's job.

3) Jiffy Lube does an inspection - LOL !!!! Cheap lube places are clueless, they don't inspect anything. Dealers do inspections but then they charge a fair bit for their services (not a complaint, you get what you pay for). With the price pressures of the $20 oil change you are highly unlikely to have a trained mechanic look at your vehical.

4)I am following the warrenty in my truck if I change the oil once per year, 10000 miles, or when the DIC says whichever comes first. It helps if you actually read your manual and not just blather on. That's what the DIC's in newer vehicals are for.

[Note from admin: Please read forum policy before posting again. Thank you.]

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How much does an oil analysis cost? About $20 as far as I can tell. Isn't that about the same as an oil change on the average car?

You would be surprised to see how many vehicles come into the shop for oil changes with 4k to 5k+ since there last service and about a shot glass of oil comes out. Realistically a quarter to half a quart. Nobody checks there oil any more! If it starts and goes forward everything must be fine. Then when you let them know about the less than adequate oil level you get two reaction, yeah whatever or are you serious!

Recommending services beyond the manufacturers recommendation without stressing the importance of checking the oil to make sure it is full and the importance of sticking with the factory suggested maintenance while the vehicle is under the factory warranty is probably not a good idea!

Not all oil life monitors are created equally! Many today are still based exclusively on mileage and do not factor in run time, temp, driving habits or other inputs. I do not agree with the oil life monitors being the best way to gauge oil life especially if the are not as advanced as yours seem to be!

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I run synthetic oil and change my oil every 6000-7,000 miles. I also check my oil level all the time. I realize I probably over change my oil but my engines seem to go forever and give me very few issues.

I truely believe the best thing one can do for your motor is keep the oil fresh and then drive.

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I'm from the old school, 3000 mile oil changes for me. I have 3 vehicles, 243,000, 162,000 and 110,000 miles and always do my own service. I buy Valvoline in the 5 qt container at walmart for around $10, another 5 for a filter and I'm done. Cheapest maintenance you can find.

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Quote:
Many today are still based exclusively on mileage and do not factor in run time, temp, driving habits or other inputs. I do not agree with the oil life monitors being the best way to gauge oil life especially if the are not as advanced as yours seem to be!

Almost all GMs (if not all) with any version of the 'oil life' system use a very complex algorthim: first milage, then driving conditions, load, short trip, temperature extreme, heavy load and more. Most start with 100% at 7500 miles, a few as high as 100% at 15000 miles, and I have seen a few Corvettes hit 0% with as little as 1500 miles - high performance driving really chops off the life!

Many European vehicles also use complex algorithims. My Sprinter Van (Freightliner/Mercedes) starts 100% at 10000 miles. Right now I have just over 12000 since the last service/reset and it still shows 2600 miles remaining. -- The algorithims can go longer!

Oil Analysis? Yes, I use it! AMSOIL recommends "Oil Analyzers, Inc." and kits for them are available for $27.85 each (retail) (includes kit, UPS shipping, and analysis tests). This test includes complete physical properties, spectrum analysis - giving a report on wear materials, additives, oxidation, nitration, water, fuel, antifreeze, and more.

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So when on a vehicle with low oil, does the oil light come on? I hardly ever check the oil on my 2 Toyota's, I use Amsoil sythetic, and change it once a year. I have very good trust that my Toyota's are not oil burners, even the one with 190,000 miles.

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So when on a vehicle with low oil, does the oil light come on? I hardly ever check the oil on my 2 Toyota's, I use Amsoil sythetic, and change it once a year. I have very good trust that my Toyota's are not oil burners, even the one with 190,000 miles.

Thank you for making my point!

The answer to you question is the oil light will not come on until there is no oil pressure. The only time there would be no oil pressure is if you where out of oil or there was a problem with the lubricating system. I have drained less than a half a quart out of many cars including the Volkswagen that came in tonight with the engine making all kinds of noise. The quick lube sold her there premium synthetic oil change and told here one of the benefits was extended service intervals but never mentioned checking oil level periodically. Her mileage was 2k over what the sticker was at and I have no idea how many miles that was set at. Literally half a quart came out of the oil pan. A new filter, four quarts of Kendal synthetic blend, and the oil sticker set for a 3k service and the customer left with a vehicle that was considerably quieter than when it came in.

In the end it doesn't matter what oil you use or how long you go between services. It does matter how much oil is in the crankcase!!

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Now, the oil minder issue at hand!

First off, why do dealers and after market facilities still put in an oil minder sticker? I know it is a small amount of advertisement, but it is a firm reminder of when the oil is due to be changed. That is the main reason.

Second, “what if” the computer was to fail and give a false reading? Under warranty or over warranty, the blame would be placed on the owner for not following the mileage needed for his/hers service and if a failure was to occur. To place the sole responsibility on the oil minder is a farce. The factory will back that up.

The oil minder system’s are just an added feature to a vehicle and should not be taken to heart. It is not a cure all or a fail safe for the owner.

Contact your dealer with any further questions regarding your oil minder and maintenance schedules!

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It has always been and always will be the driver's responsibility to make sure the oil level in the engine is safe. Only a very few engines have oil level sensors on them that give a warning system to the driver.

No oil company (AMSOIL included), no car manufacturer, no engine rebuilder, no repair shop (that I know of) will guarantee their work or parts when the owner/driver runs it low on fluid.

I've even seen a heating and ac contractor that makes all the employees sign a statement on employment that if they drive a vehicle they are responsible to make sure the oil and coolant levels are safe - daily if need be. If they burn up an engine because of low fluid levels it is taken out of their pay! And one has been!

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Quick question, 97 Grand prix, 3.8, 113,123 m., the oil looks red and the oil change sticker says 110,251m. The reason I'm confused is that used oil should be black, why is min e not? Just got the car and wondering if It woulds be worth my time to use Synthetic now, since I don't know whats in it or stay with conventional. Oil change needs to happen.

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Which dipstick did you pull out? I know dumb question but the dipstick closest to the firewall is the trans and the dipstick dead center in the front is the oil.

I would not switch at this point. The 3.8 is a tough engine, as long as you keep it lubricated and keep it cool it will last a long time! Although eventually you'll have to replace the leaking intake gasket, Pull off the timing cover to replace the cam button (might as well replace the water pump and the timing chain while your at it), Replace the leaking oil pan, the valve cover gaskets, if it has the plastic plenum that will get replaced at some time also, then for good measure the starter will go out and you'll probably be replacing the fuel pump at some time. The motor however will run forever!

You would think with all the imports that you have seen me own and drive over the years you would have followed suit!!!! grin

Stop playin around on the internet and CHANGE THE OIL! lol grin

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On your 3.8 Grand Prix with 113K I agree with Airjer, I would recommend that changing to synthetic would probably be a mistake. 50K or 75K yes, but 113K no -- too many possible trouble areas -- as Airjer suggested take care of the gaskets and the other known potential trouble items, but stay with petroleum oil on this one.

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