Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

  • 0

K@N air filters


BottomPounder

Question

Was thinking of getting one for my 2003 chevy 1/2 ton. Just wonder if anbody knows much about them and if they are worth the $. I have been told that they actually draw more air than if u dont have a filter at all. Tahnks for any info in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

great if you like pulling more dust into your engine and then messing up your MAF sensor when you use too much oil on them. You should look into the aftermarket non-oiled air filters. There are much better product than K&N out on the market.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Are you talking about just the air filter or are you talking about the entire air intake kit? I put just the filter in my 05 Ford Screw and to be honest, I dont know if it made a difference or not. Sorta a spending air filter if you dont notice any difference. I used it for a couple of years and just went back to the regular filter. In my opinion, I dont think its worth the extra money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I use a K&N on my Expedition.

I like it for the reclean function. I got mine free and bought the reactivation kit for $7.00 and clean it regularly.

I did have to modify the sealing surface with 3M foam tape the last time I cleaned it, but it has been with me now 50,000 miles.

I will say after I clean it, I do see a little MPG, but nothing to brag about.

If you follow the instructions to a “T” when cleaning and reapplying oil, I have not had an issue yet.

I just have the filter, no induction kit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

My company put the induction kit on my work truck plus rechipped the computer. Night and day difference compared to my personal 6 liter. Step on the gas any time as hard as you want and hang on. Even power all the way up. Our truck guy is thinking better economy and improved towing. About a thousand bucks though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Shack I ran one in my truck for about 60k, free one too I might add! I took it out, and reinstalled factory airfilter. I didnt want to maintain it anymore was the reason.

The reason these filters allow more air then factroy filters is because they dont filter as well. They do not allow more air then not having a filter in, but I strongly dont recommend that! If you clean them regularly, and dont over oil them, they can be a good filter, but hardly no one keeps up with the maintanence on them. In the shop we would charge $25 to clean and oil them, you would need to do this every 20-30k miles. Or spend the time yourself doing it. You can buy new oe filters cheaper then that, and that doesnt even include the high initial cost of buying one. Unless you are fortunate enough to get a free one, I wouldnt put one in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

 Originally Posted By: Bryce
My company put the induction kit on my work truck plus rechipped the computer. Night and day difference compared to my personal 6 liter. Step on the gas any time as hard as you want and hang on. Even power all the way up. Our truck guy is thinking better economy and improved towing. About a thousand bucks though.

On diesels power chips can make a HUGE difference! Heads up, 6.0L diesels headgaskets dont like them!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

On a 6.0l Ford diesel, I would spend the money for head bolt/ studs change over installation kit, before any air induction kit (LOL). Ford should have put the extra stretch bolt per cylinder from factory.

Ya, I do my K&N cleaning about 7,000-10,000 miles. I am just glad this $7.00 kit has held me this far. Clean, clean, clean or do not buy it. I have never been a fan of changing the factory induction air system.

I can only bet how you got your K&N free, 4wanderingeyes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I figured as such, because there was not a couple (contact us please)'s after your post grin.gif...

I have been waiting to get the head stud comment in for awhile.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

 Originally Posted By: Fisherman For a Lifetime
I used to run K&N. Used Oil Analysis shows HIGH Silicon with them - don't do it.

Sodium Metasilicate Pentahydrate is in K&N cleaning fluid. Were you rinsing the filter enough?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I've used the same K&N in my '97 F150 and my 2003 F150. It had about 200,000 miles on it with no problems to either vehicle. Just follow the cleaning instructions and don't over oil it. BTW I always left mine to dry for a day or two before oiling it and the other filter came in handy when I was cleaning the K&N.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Just went back to this thread, anybody else have there 2 cents?? I have read the testimonials on there page, but who knows how deep that is?? Most people claim a 1-2 MPG gain..this day and age that would mean a lot!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

This discussion is as old as Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge. Some love the filters some don't, it's a personal choice and a 50/50 outcome.

Consequently you will get mixed responses all the times.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
    • Sketti...  not out of a jar either!
    • Lol yeah I watched that
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.