Auger Engine Break-In???

[Todd_J]

I finally rounded up the cash and pulled the trigger on the powerhead for my Nils Master. I should be arriving within the next week.

I did a few searches, but couldn't find any info on how to best break-in the engine. I recall a post not too long ago that had some really great info in it. Anyone recall the post? Or have info to share?

Thanks

[Eric Wettschreck]

The best way to break these augers in is to start and let idle. Go through 2 tanks of gas if you can.

Of course, if you don't go through 2 tanks, it will break in during use. It's just going to take approx 2 tanks of fuel to get good and broke in.

[sjburnt]

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[Lip_Ripper Guy]

I've broken in many 2 stroke racing motors in the last 15 years. The best way to break in an auger is to use your normal oil ratio that the manufacturer recommends, probably somewhere around 50:1. Don't worry about mixing extra oil with the gas. The first time you start it up let it idle for about 5-10 minutes, then shut it down. You'll want to let it cool completely (several hours), and repeat that about 3 or 4 times.

Then what I would recommend is to start it up, let it idle for 1-2 minutes to warm up, and then vary the throttle from idle to wide open and hold it there for 20-30 seconds as if you're drilling a hole. Do that for a few minutes, and then shut it down, let it cool off. Repeat that again 2 or 3 more times and then you are good to go.

The goal is do do a number of heat up and cool down cycles, and then let 'er buck.

[theoilman]

Many 2-stroke engine manufacturers recommend using the oil at double strength for the first couple of tanks.

You can use synthetic during break in - if using AMSOIL I recommend use it at least 50-1 or possibly richer for the break-in period.

[Todd_J]

Not really a consensus on the best way of breaking in a new engine, eh?

My Tanaka engine came today and it is currently breaking in out in the backyard. the dog went crazy, just like her master.

I've mixed the oil (Tanaka brand) a tad rich and will let that run at idle for 20 min, cool down, and repeat a few times. Then pretty much follow LRG's advice.

The only thing that stinks is that it will be bitterly cold up here on the tundra. I love ice fishing, but at -10 with 30 mph gusts I don't love it so much.

All good things to those that wait....

[Jim Almquist]

Todd when I broke in my Nils I mixed up some Amsoil at 50-1 and ran 4 tanks thru it. I would go out every 20 to 40 minutes and rev it up and after the 3rd tank I would go wide open for about a minute. It is so much faster,lighter and effortless then my old 30 Jiffy it is hard to believe. I feel sorry for you cause now that you have it you really got the itch to make swiss cheese and the forecast is a little cold for hole hopping

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

 Originally Posted By: Todd_J

Not really a consensus on the best way of breaking in a new engine, eh?

My Tanaka engine came today and it is currently breaking in out in the backyard. the dog went crazy, just like her master.

I've mixed the oil (Tanaka brand) a tad rich and will let that run at idle for 20 min, cool down, and repeat a few times. Then pretty much follow LRG's advice.

The only thing that stinks is that it will be bitterly cold up here on the tundra. I love ice fishing, but at -10 with 30 mph gusts I don't love it so much.

All good things to those that wait....

Honestly, my previous post aside, I don't think it matters all that much. I have my process that has worked very well for me, and I've had an opportunity to compare the exact same motors broken in multiple different ways. That being said, I've had motors that have gone WFO from the second they start up and run awesome, and I've had motors run WFO that didn't run awesome. I've had motors broken in the "right way" run good, and I've had them run bad. Engines in general are very forgiving, especially 2 strokes, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. Do a couple heat/cool cycles, and let it rip. Unless you're running 8,000 RPM's or more, it isn't going to matter a whole lot.

[MuleShack]

 Originally Posted By: Todd_J

The only thing that stinks is that it will be bitterly cold up here on the tundra. I love ice fishing, but at -10 with 30 mph gusts I don't love it so much.

Its a good thing that you will be able to drill the holes twice as fast to get into some heat...

[hanson]

I don't ever remember "breaking in" my Strikemasters when I bought them but I do know the Nils needs a little extra care right out of the box.

The trick is to do what you are doing and let them run through a couple tanks of gas. A little extra oil never hurt anything with a new engine so don't be afraid to mix it a bit rich.

Newer Nils augers tend to "bind" at the bottom of the hole for some reason as well. No need to worry... lift up a little bit and let it go again.

Most importantly, don't apply any downforce to the auger when you cut holes. The auger will "suck" itself through the ice, don't help it or force it. Let it do its own thing.

[Jim Almquist]

 Quote:

Most importantly, don't apply any downforce to the auger when you cut holes. The auger will "suck" itself through the ice, don't help it or force it. Let it do its own thing.

Great point Hanson I forgot that little tip and look real close at how they put the guard on your cutting blade so you will remember how it sits when it comes time to leave. I always put mine on the minute I am done cutting so no one kicks it with there boot cause they will be sorry.