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Rapala Jiggin Shad Raps


BigWadeS

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Wade, the smallest size works well on crappies, too. You can vertical jig with them in summer for any species that is a fish-eater and responds to vertical jigging. The profile with its tall body most closely resembles young-of-the-year panfish, shad and cisco (tulibee).

They also are great for lake trout through the ice.

I don't know if they're a must-have, but I favor the jigging rap line for many, many species, and I have three larger and four smaller jigging rap shads.

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The Jiggin' Raps are my best friend and worst enemy. I hooked 3 GREAT eyes last winter on Devil's Lake, only to loose them when the Raps front hook became hung-up on the edge of the ice hole.

Friggin Jiggin Rap. I love to curse you.

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OK, Todd and others, here is a tip for you. I've been a HUGE jigging rap fan for a long time. I too got sick of losing fish because of the front or rear hooks catching the hole, so I cut them off with a wirecutters flush to the lure. I started doing that about six years ago. I only did it after realizing that almost every fish I caught (while they might have had one of the front or rear hook embedded once in awhile) had the middle treble securely hooked in their mouths.

So I cut those hooks off a couple raps, leaving only the center treble, and I didn't notice any falloff either in hits or hooking. None at all. So I've cut those hooks off all my other jigging raps and nils master jigger shads and any similar swimming lure and have never looked back.

This modification is no secret. The In-Fisherman guys talked about doing it years ago, and Doug Stange in particular has been a jigging rap fan for a long time, but I can tell you that it works, and of course there's no more catching those evil front/rear hooks on the edge of the ice.

I also didn't notice ANY difference in lure action between the hookless and the originals. My conclusion? Those front/rear hooks are there to hook fishermen (they sure make the lure LOOK tough), not to help land fish.

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No matter what my main line, I tie a ball-bearing swivel to it, add two feet of fluorocarbon and then a cross-lock swivel. The ball-bearing swivel eliminated line twist, as mentioned, and the cross-lock swivel, aside from making it easier to change lures, also allows your lure more freedome of movement (better lure action) than most knots tied directly to the lure.

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