What do i do to winterize my quad?

[Kallista]

What do i do to winterize my quad?

Is there anything special to do??

thanks

[BobT]

If you're not planning on using it for the winter I'd treat it like you would your boat. Add fuel stabilizer, fog the engine, remove the battery and place it inside, put a trickle charge on it periodically throughout the winter to maintain charge, etc.

Bob

[SomethingFishy*]

Quote:

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What do i do to winterize my quad?

Is there anything special to do??

thanks

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Change the oil and take it ice fishing

[McGurk]

In all seriousness, for winter ATV use, are there other things to do? I already have switched to Amsoil ATV 0w40, have got the carb cleaned out and running good, and adjusted the brakes. I have a shaft driven ATV, and plan to replace the rear end gear oil also, possibly with synthetic. Anything else for winter use with short term storage between trips?

[Kallista]

Ok not to be dumb but......

But ok i do plan on using it for winter, not alot maybe 1 or 2 times a week, it sits outside under a tarp.. I just bought it its a AC 07..

I have about 30 miles on it..

and i do not know what to do

All my life my brothers have taken care for everything lol

SO i need to change the oil?

What kind of oil?

is there anything else i need to do?

Sorry guys but i cant bait this, catch it, shoot it, clean it so i am a bit lost here with my quad

any help is very greatful

[McGurk]

Quote:

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Sorry guys but i cant bait this, catch it, shoot it, clean it so i am a bit lost here with my quad

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Ohhhh, I'm pretty sure you could catch it if it idles away from you, and you could shoot it with the hose, with leads to the fact that you can clean it!

Seriously though, look into the Amsoil synthetic lube I mentioned earlier. If you haven't done a change recently yourself (or had someone do it for you), make the switch now to the ATV specific 0w-40. If you take it somewhere, purchase a couple-3 quarts (and a filter if needed from the same place you got the syn. oil) and bring it in with you, and WATCH THEM put it in, and have them bring the empty bottles to you. It costs more than cheapo-oil, but will stay nice and fluid in practically any weather we get. I'm still waiting for responses to my questions, as they should pertain to you, too.

[Kallista]

Ok but your post saids 40 w.. thats what i have in there now, i have 35 miles on it, i thought for winter we are supposed to go a bit lighter 30 w?

I was thinking of maybe not changing it since it has 35 miles on it, and waiting to the 200 mark like i am supposed to?

I understand it will take longer to get the oil warm, but is that the only thing it does?

So i am wrong them, having 40 w in now and then changing it to 30 w in cold weather..

I just thought you want a thinner oil in cold weather?

ok now you see i am confused lol

[McGurk]

As I understand it (can you chime in here, oilman???), a typical oil rating for summer use is around a 10w30, where the first number is a rating of the oil's viscosity at ambient (cold) temperature, and the second number is a rating of the viscosity at a running (hot) temperature. The lower the first number, the more fluid it is at a colder ambient temperature, and the higher it is the thicker it is at that same temperature. The second number in most all cases around here can be 30 or 40 for most motors. For our application, the 0w-40 will remain fluid at a colder temperature (winter use) and the 40 will be fine for the running temperatures. The synthetic oils seem thinner compared to conventional oils, but do not break down like a conventional oil, and therefore you can get away with using it in the summer months, too.

I am no expert here, though, and welcome others' input.

[BobT]

The oil weight can make a difference in winter performance. 10w, 20w, 30w, etc. are indicators of the oil viscosity. The larger the number the more viscous or thicker the oil. 10w and 20w will remain liquid at lower temperatures so cold starting will be much easier with these oils. Multi-grade oils such as 10w-30w, 20w-50w, etc. retain some of the characteristics of both weights so they can perform in a wider variety of temperature conditions.

Check the maintenance section of your owner's manual and it should show you the recommended oil to use under various conditions.

Bob

[SomethingFishy*]

Quote:

---

Ok not to be dumb but......

But ok i do plan on using it for winter, not alot maybe 1 or 2 times a week, it sits outside under a tarp.. I just bought it its a AC 07..

I have about 30 miles on it..

and i do not know what to do

All my life my brothers have taken care for everything lol

SO i need to change the oil?

What kind of oil?

is there anything else i need to do?

Sorry guys but i cant bait this, catch it, shoot it, clean it so i am a bit lost here with my quad

any help is very greatful

---

I honestly don't know what to do to "winterize " an atv. I haven't done anything differnt in mine in the winters as I usually use it atleast once a week. I change the oil ever 300-500 miles depending on riding conditions. Winter time I change the oil around november/december before the ice season and then again in the spring.

[theoilman]

I normally check in on FM most evenings.

A couple of things in this thread - you are not looking to 'store' your ATV as long as you are using it once or twice a week, do NOT fog the engine. Fogging would be for storing it without using it for the winter.

The second, consider the viscosity, synthetic?, true all-season oil, and protection and performance in your operating temperatures.

The first number of a multi-grade oil, the number next to the 'W' means its cold test viscosity (think of W meaning winter, though the test temperature is only +40degC, not realistically cold, but it is the definition). The second number after the '-' is its viscosity at 100degC (over 200degF). An additional test that is more cold weather meaningful is its low temperature pour point, below which it turns from liquid to gel and solid. The AMSOIL 0W-40 4-stroke power-sports oil (for 4-stroke ATVs, Snowmobiles, etc) has a low temperature pour point of -51degC (-60degF). Petroleum 5W- or 10W- will be lucky to give you pour points of -20degF. The AMSOIL 0W-40 is a true all-season oil for year round use in any climate. More info: AMSOIL 4-stroke 0W-40 product code AFF

Other lubricants: Manual Transmission, most ATVs the engine and transmission share the same oil. When you change the engine you also are doing the transmission. A very few are separate, but you still use the 0W-40 in most of them - it carries the GL-1 rating for manual transmissions.

Automatice Transmission - the fluids vary by ATV manufacturer and model - specific info required to look it up.

Final drive or differential rear and front for all wheel drive: Almost all call for 80W-90 or 75W-90. Use AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90. With its pour point of -50degC (-58degF) it too is ready to go in cold climates.

[NAMASafetyDirector]

Kallista, as good practice on any vehicle before winter you may also want to test the coolant to make sure the freeze point is at the right level. Your wheeler is new so it should be good but too weak of coolant mix can cause alot of damage if it freezes in your engine/radatior esp. if you store it outdoors. You can pick up an easy to use tester at any parts store to take a sample of any engine coolant that will tell you what temperature your coolant will withstand without freezing. It's just a peace of mind thing that you can do.

[BobT]

Kallista,

All of the fancy talk with big words and technical terms aside, I'll try and put it in a nutshell for you. It's no different than your car, your boat, or any other machine you may have.

If you are planning on putting it in storage for the winter:

1. Use a fuel stabilizer. Read the label instructions on the fuel stabilizer and mix the recommended amount in the fuel tank on your ATV. Start the engine and run it long enough to work the mixed fuel through the system. In other words, take it for one last ride. This will help keep your fuel fresh so it doesn't gunk up your engine and carburation system as it sits over winter.

2. Use an engine fogger. Read the label instructions on the engine fogger and fog the engine as recommended. This will help protect your engine from moisture damage due to condensation while sitting over winter.

3. Remove the battery and place it in a warm place for the winter where you can periodically put a trickle charger on it a couple times during the winter to maintain charge. I store mine in my basement and charge them about once a month.

4. This may be carrying it a bit far but it doesn't hurt to put it up on blocks to take the weight off the tires as well.

5. First thing in spring, change the engine oil. Oil can break down over time (not as much a problem with today's oils), contaminants that were once suspended in the oil will probably have settled, and there could be moisture in the oil due to condensation over winter.

If you are planning on using it throughout the winter months:

1. You really don't have to do much of anything but depending on your service schedule, what weight oil you are using now, and your needs, you could change your engine oil. The thing to keep in mind is that the heavier the oil, the harder it will be for the starter to turn over the engine during cold weather and since your battery's capacity drops as it gets colder, you have a double whammy. It'll be easier to get it started on really cold days with lighter oil in the crank case. Your owner's manual should have the manufacturer's recommended grades and service factors based on expected temperatures and seeing that you live near Ely, I would consider this. Mine is an air-cooled engine and I use the same 20w-50 oil year-round. I change it on a schedule but then I pick and choose the days I use it during the winter and don't expect it to start when it's really cold like below -10F, although so far I have not had problems.

2. Depending on how much you plan on using your ATV during winter, you could consider using a fuel stabilizer. This will help keep the fuel fresh so it ignites easier, which can be a blessing on cold days. At the same time I believe the colder temperatures by themselves will help stabilize the fuel to some degree. I don't bother with this myself, mine recommends 91 octane or higher fuel, and I haven't experienced any problems, yet.

3. Check your tire pressure. As temperatures drop, air pressure will likely drop slightly in your tires.

In either case:

1. If you have a liquid cooled engine, check the coolant to be sure it will withstand the cold. In Ely I would want to be sure it tests to at least -40F. When water freezes it expands and this could crack and engine so you want to ensure the coolant won't freeze.

2. If you want to take it a bit further you could check and/or replace the differential (final drive) gear oils, especially if you have used your machine in deep water. You don't want ice in the gear cases. Sounds like you haven't used yours much yet and I suspect you haven't taken it into deep water so I would assume they are ok but then, it is an assumption. The easiest way to tell is after your machine has been sitting for a few days open the drain plugs to see if any water drains out or if the gear oil is milky. This would indicate water contamination and you should then change the gear oil. You owner's manual should have recommended oil types and weights.

Bob

[Roofer]

WOW, great instructions and tips.

By the time I do all that I could build a new garage. LOL J/K

[Gadgetman]

my honda fourtrax recommends a different plug for cold weather uses, so I always change plugs for the winter.

with 35 miles I am sure your polug is fine but see if the suggest a different plug for cold

[Kallista]

Ok will do and thanks to all of you who posted and helped me...