Tiling Bathroom walls along bathtub

[Northlander]

I thought I could find info on this here but did a search and I came up empty.

My question is what tools do I need and how tuff a job is it?

Im guessing a wet saw for cutting but what adhesives and grout do you guys recomend?

Once I get the new tub in and walls ready how long would a average to small bathroom take. Can I get it done in a weekend or is it more like a week?

Thanks everyone. I can catch fish (sometimes ) but Im out of my element when it comes to remodeling.

[bigdog]

For the walls around the tub you will want to use a cement board instead of sheetrock. Basically use it wherever water would normally hit. If you don't have a shower head you can just do the first couple feet up from the tub. For walls you most likely will not need a wet saw, a cutter and tile nippers should be enough, unless you have a window or something to tile around. You will also need a small notch trowel for adhesive, a level, grout float and a grout sponge (rounded corners). You can buy a wall tile adhesive and a non-sanded wall grout is typically used. Should be able to do a small bath in a weekend. Just take your time up front on the layout and draw some lines to follow.

[fishinchicks]

My friend put some of the sea glass tile around her tub in a day. She didn't go all the way to the ceiling, mostly due to the style of her tub. She didn't have to use any cutting tools, but did use nippers. It looks really cool. Good luck!

[mntraveler]

When I did mine last winter I did buy a cheap tile saw and it served me fine for a tub surround, bathroom floor, laundry floor, and another 300 s.f. floor. I pretty much agree with all the rest of the advice bigdog gave. However, if it was me and your shower is going to get used frequently (mine isn't, it's more for looks) there is no way I would put in tile over a fiberglass surround. Simply for cleaning reasons.

[Stratosman]

You can always rent a wet saw or you can pick up a cutter relatively cheap as well. Unless you have difficult cuts you could get by without a wet saw....

Make sure the walls are plumb and square, it makes it much easier and gives you a much nicer finished product.

Use a 1/2" cement board but make sure to put a vapor barrier behind, poly or rooofing felt will do the trick. Tape the seams of the cement board with an alkali resistant mesh tape, (not the kind for drywall).

Whatever you do do NOT use the premixed adhesive, it is a big no-no for wet areas...Versabond is a great mortar for your application, and it is available at your local H.D. Or any modified mortar will do the trick, get the kind you mix yourself, not the pre-mixed. One bag should do it for you.

Trowel size will depend on tile size, 12" tiles use a 1/4"x3/8" square notch, 8" or less you can use a 1/4"x1/4" trowel.

Start on the center of the back wall you're cuts are even on both sides. On the side walls lay it out with full tiles on the outside and the cuts along the back wall. I usually get a coler matched caulk for the corners and along the tile to tub transition.

Grout depends on the width of the grout joint, doesn't have anything to do with it being wall tile or floor tile....1/8" joint or less use non-sanded, over 1/8" use a sanded grount, the sand gives it strength.

For a first timer I would allow yourself 3 days, 72 hours after grout before you can expose it to water typically, so keep that in mind as well.

Good luck and have fun!!!

[mntraveler]

One more thing, I see Stratosman said to use cement board AND vapor barrier. This will create a wonderful breeding ground for mold. Do NOT use both, it is like putting a double layer of platic in your wall, the cement board will act as its own vapor barrier. The same is true for the "green" drywall.

[polarsusd81]

I just picked up a drywall book from Maynerds and I will second the comment about not using vapor barrier behind the cement board and green board. The same comment is written in the book.

[Stratosman]

Careful there...I respectfully dissagree 100% with that statement.

There is nothing about that product which suggests that it will contain moisture....it is designed to remain sound and stable when subjected to moisture. CBU's such as Durock or Wonderboard are not waterproof! Proper steps must be taken to insure that moisture/vapor does not find it's way into the wall cavity from the shower. If one or more sides are installed on a exterior wall, then vapor barrier should already be in place, in that scenario the existing vapor barrier will suffice as long as it is fully intact. Otherwise, vapor barrier MUST be installed.

Another option is to apply a vapor barrier to the surface of the CBU, such as RedGard, which can be either rolled or troweled to the surface of the CBU. Very expensive product however so seldom used in this case.

If you are still unsure, visit the HSOforum of Wonderboard or Durock, you will find in their data sheets the same info I posted above. Or the Tile Council of America.

About greenboard...since current code does not allow for the installation of green board in wet areas anyway, (showers, tub surrounds, ect.) there is no need to argue this point.

[mntraveler]

Point taken. I am by no means an expert, just relaying what the Lakeville building official told me was acceptable for my basement last winter. I would agree with Stratosman and say you should go by the manufacturer's recommendations.

[Stratosman]

Hey traveler I wasn't trying to call you out or anything, just wanted to make sure the proper information is given...

That's amazing about the building official implying that cement board acts as a vapor barrier, he of all people should know that!

[Northlander]

Thanks a lot guys.

Is there any 1 type/brand of tile that is the best most cost effective? Any I should stay away from?