Building a casting deck...

[igotworms]

Anyone have any pointers on how to build a casting deck into a 14ft alum. boat? I've looked for restoration books and searched for info, but I'm coming up empty.

Any ideas would be appreciated

[VMS]

I had an old Alumacraft 14 footer that did not have a front seat in it (like the lund WS14 series did). so...I built a frame out of 2x2 lumber and some 2x4's. I cut the 2x4's to match the floor curve, then built the frame up to the level of the front-most seat. From there, I used a 3/4 inch piece of marine plywood, marine carpeting, and cut to fit. A couple of wood screws to the framing, and it was all done. Easy to remove in the fall to store the boat up-side down on the trailer too. I also built a front deck for a trolling motor. In that job, I took a 2x2 angle aluminum, cut a couple of triangular pieces out of one side to bend the curve for the boat, measureed down the distance I would need to in order to make the deck flush. Then, took the 3/4 plywood, laid it on top of the gunnel and traced the curve of the boat. Cut a bit smaller, carpet, and machine screws to the aluminum framing, and rivets to the aluminum frame to the boat.

Fun little project, and definietly worth the time.

Steve

[Valv]

Do a search in the Equipment Forum, this topic has been posted many times.

Whatever you do do not use treated lumber on aluminum.

[Walleye Guy]

Be careful when putting a casting deck on a small boat. Back in my youth I built a casting deck for a 14 ft Alumacraft that went across the first two sets of seats. It was well thought out with a nice pedestal and swivel seat.

What I didn't account for was the tippiness of the boat that I created by moving my center of gravity. The 14 foot boat I put this on was a 50's vintage Alumacraft with pretty low sides and a fairly round bottom. The boat wasn't designed to have somebody basically standing at the top of the gunnels.

I quickly abandoned the idea after I dumped myself in the lake about 20 yards from the dock.

Your boat may be more stable than the one I used.

[sparcebag]

Post deleted by sparcebag

[fishin58]

What would be the "problem" be with treated wood if there is a "problem" or why why why not treated plywood?

[sparcebag]

Post deleted by sparcebag

[rookie44]

I have seen aluminum eaten away a year after we wrapped some treated 6x6 posts!It might take a while longer on a boat because it's thicker.We just make sure the treated wood has ice&water or tar paper on it beore we wrap it with aluminum.

[Valv]

These are not rumors, if you have to state facts bring proof of it. Aluminum will react with the chemical used to treat lumber, combined with water they will corrode aluminum, it is a fact, studied, proven, and labeled accordingly.

Please don't give replies that can damage others property, you are welcome to experiment on your own though, then let us know how it did turn out.

[sparcebag]

UPDATE: I just sent a Email to Forest Service Products,about treated lumber in contact with aluminum.When results return I will post "THE FACTS right from their reply.

[fishin58]

wow! I would have never even thought twice about using treated wood for a boat, great post...I think with your research ya saved a lot of people some big headaches. So what would be the recomended plywood for a project like this??

[Valv]

Marine plywood would be the best but cost is very high.

The best choice is a standard sheet of plywood covered with a coat of resin or epoxy. This would make it light and waterproof. Treated lumber is very heavy, no sense to add twice the weight when you get better results with standard wood.

[fishin58]

Ok Valv.. with standard ply wood..I am looking at doing the rhino lining job, would this seal it up?? I am thinkin it will be better than most but I can be wrong once in a while!

[Valv]

That's a good question, I am not sure maybe somebody else already did it and can pitch in, otherwise coating it with resin is an easy job, just get some fiberglass resin (no fiberglass), an old or cheap brush and coat the whole sheet.

That will make a waterproof durable cover for it. Or you could do bottom half with resin then top with rhino coating.

[VMS]

I would think the Rhino Lining would do it.... That stuff is as hard as rock when it's dry.

I like the expoxy/resin idea too..

I suppose if you really needed some weight, you could go get some linseed oil and put that on until it no longer is absorbed with by the wood.

Steve

[Steve Bakken]

Valve's right about the plywood. Marine is expensive and both marine and treated are much heavier. We use BC grade plywood which has no voids in it like some of the lower grades do. We treat them with the resin and also have done several with the "rhino lining" with excellent results. In the 20+ years that we've been doing this, there haven't been any that rotted back out yet.

[Valv]

UPDATE:

sparcebag was correct, apparently not all treated plywood is harmful to aluminum, here's Steve Bakken's note:

They have revised the chemical composition of "green treat" to be compatible with aluminum. If you buy it, just make sure that it is labeled PTMC and not ACQ.

[sparcebag]

Thanks for the correction! But before I speak I do get the facts before I mislead anyone! Also I believe the lumber is yet labeled ACQ but on the tag on the end of the ply or lumber look for PTMC Pressure Treated Micronized Copper.If you want to use regular ACQ you can just follow the directions!!!!Printed on the pamphlets distributed by the manufacturer,and should be available at the place of purchase.The new ply has been available in California for a few years.now accepted it will be marketed nation wide! you can order it on line out of Ca.If you would want CCA ply it can be ordered out of Texas.Where it is yet sold.