Winterizing, Summerizing, etc.

[Scott M]

Hey Valv, Surface Tension, et al.,

Please post (and maybe pin at the top) some good tips for winterizing boats, and "summerizing" ice augers, as examples. That would be great for those who don't know, good reminders for those who do, and you never know what new trick you'll learn from someone. I thought of this as I start thinking about putting away the old ice auger. We've had some good times and cut some good holes. I hope I can run her a few more times this winter/spring.

For the auger: My plan is to run her dry, wipe down the whole unit, and add fuel stabilizer to whatever is left in my gas can. (Although I've heard that StaBil is only good for 90 days?)

Any other tips?

[Wildabeast]

A spark plug question. Do you use a little anti-sieze on the spark plug threads when you replace them (aluminum heads)?

[marine_man]

Charcoal - will absorb humidity under the cover

bhs91 - see reply on the Winterizing topic on the Boat & Motor Forum

Sparkplug question - anti seize can't hurt anything...

marine_man

[snoozebutton]

2-stroke or 4-stoke I recommend using the New Sta-bill Blue in the mix all season, and for storage.

I didn't know they had the blue marine variety. I used the red in mine, will I be alright with that?

[marine_man]

yes, just fine.

marine_man

[Ed Carlson]

Both the Red/Blue StaBil formulas are good products.

The new Blue is a lot better in many ways with the new rust protection and carb cleaners in it. I would recommend you try it, it has made a dramatic difference in how well my ice augers run and my boat...so I'm now completely sold on the Marine Blue formula StaBil.

[2ylabs]

Hey, here's one for some one. How do you drain the gas tank that is built in?

[marine_man]

Pump it out... or, stick a hose down the fill tube and siphon it out...

marine_man

[Bottle Fish]

Pump it out... or, stick a hose down the fill tube and siphon it out...

marine_man

It is the only way to do it.

[Ed Carlson]

You also could disconnect the fuel line to the motor, and pressurize the fill cap and force it out into a gas can. Pumping it our that way would be the other best option.

[gt696]

I have an older jiffy auger,handle on side throttle on top. It run great, drills fine until I tip on its side,the side opposite the primer, and then it kills instantly with no warning. It does not do it if I tip it on the other side. whats up????? anybody????

[Hoffer]

Someone told me to put the boat away for the year with a full tank. (17 gallon built in tank). They said its better that way because you dont get moisture buildup. I did put blue stabil in but now talked to a boat mechanic and he said it would be good to not run that gas through the engine?

So, can a person buy a cheap "gas pump" somewhere and just pump that gas into my own vehicle - side by side to the boat?

This guy also said to replace the fuel filter and water filter every 2 to 3 years. Thats like 500.00 with labor (I cant do it myself - at least I dont think I can...).

Does anyone here replace those things that often?

(2004 75HP Mercury 2 stroke).

[boatfixer]

I would have no problem running that gas through the engine. Thats the reason to use stabilizers. And who the heck is charging 500 bucks to change filters? Find another mechanic...FAST!!!

[Hoffer]

I may just run it through then...

I did do some google searching and Northern has a cool portable "siphon/pump" for like 29 bucks that looks like I could easily park my van next to the boat and siphon the gas from the boat into the car. I may just do that to be on the safe side.

yeah, I wont name the marina - just will say they are one of the "main" ones in the twin cities area.

I originally called about a "spring tuneup" they said they could do it for about 125.00. I asked them what that would include..they said they would hook it up and run it and make sure "its running good", then check hoses and grease thinsg up. I asked them if they would check filters, compression, etc...for that price - and they said no - thats all extra and they would change plugs as well - but thats extra.

Heck, I am terrible around mechanical things - but I always hook my boat up in the Spring to make sure "its running right" and i check hoses and grease things up and also change plugs...so I dont think I will be dropping it off for 125.00 for them to do that.

Thats when I also asked about fuel filters, air filters and such. he said replacing the fuel filter was "150.00 to 200.00" and the same for the air filter. So, if I did the "Spring tuneup" and had them also do the filters that would be 500.00 easily.

I guess I am just wondering how often people here change out those things and if I really need it?

The main concern is that I am spending a week in Canada in early June in the middle of nowhere and I dont want any surprises. If i was just running around here I wouldnt be so concerned..

Thanks!!

Hoffer

[walleyemaniac]

I've got a Yamaha 90hp and I make sure the tank is full when I put it away. I also add Ring Free Fuel Additive (Yamaha product) every time I put gas in my boat and since I've been doing this I have never had fuel problems in the spring. I change my fuel filter every year just to be safe, it's on the side of the motor and not that hard to do. I don't have a water filter but haven't had any problems that way. I would think you would be safe running that gas. If it starts and it's not sluggish your good to go. As for the filters I don't know how yours is set up as to how hard that would be. 500 bucks is pretty steap.

[boatfixer]

No Compression check? between that and the spark tester, those are the first 2 things I usually do. Whatever it takes for them I guess. And the Air filter??? What air filter????? If you are unfamiliar with marine engines, thats one thing, I understand, but they should know better than to offer replacing the air filter you dont have for 150-200 bucks.

You are doing the right thing by asking questions. Save your 125 bucks and see if runs good on your own. There are many things you can do yourself with that engine. Spend your money on a good service manual and save the bigger stuff for a competent honest service shop.

Change plugs, filters as needed. Gear lube annually. Grease annually. Water pump impeller every few years. Just check for loose, worn stuff periodically.

[LightningBG]

I may just run it through then...

I did do some google searching and Northern has a cool portable "siphon/pump" for like 29 bucks that looks like I could easily park my van next to the boat and siphon the gas from the boat into the car. I may just do that to be on the safe side.

I always use a "jiggle tube" siphon. Works awesome. In fact, it works so good I use it to put the fuel in the boat too. I can drain a 6 gal can in under 2min (faster than the nozzle) and never spill a single drop in the water (boat is in the water all summer, no gas pump on lake). And I can just set the can up on the side of the boat and not have to lift it the whole time. The jiggle tube costs about $10. Can get them at northern and some other places.

If you need a hand wrenching, let me know. I'm no mechanic, but I'm pretty handy with the tools and have about any tool I can think of.

[Hoffer]

Hey Boatfixer and Lightning -

Thanks for the replies! This is what makes this site so great - knowledgeable people and willingness to help. I may have brought my boat in to this place and paid 500.00 bucks for not much - you guys saved me! So, lets say I wasnt listening right...could there have been another filter that mechanic was talking about other than the fuel filter? Cause I know he mentioned 2 filters...

Regarding the water impeller - I have that mentioned on this site before. So, how hard is that to replace...keep in mind I have limited knowledge. The issue is that there are just very few boat places around this neck of the woods. I am in maple Grove - and both Crystal and Link in Rogers are gone.

I actually brought my other boat up a few years ago to the BP gas station by my house. I have been bringing my car up there for years. They did my wheel bearings for about 120.00. I may just bring my boat up there this Spring an have him do the wheel bearings again and then see if he can do a fuel filter.

Lightning...thanks for the advice on the siphon. I will check that out. I have a 17 gallon built in - but when I go to Canada for a week - I have to go through about 5 other six gallon gas containers. Its hard to sit boat side and try to fill a funnel holding a heavy 6 gallon tank of gas. I am going o check out Northern today. The one I saw on line for 30 bucks looked pretty nice too - it had an actual gas pump kind of handle with an on/off lever. It would be great to just keep in the boat and use it to gas up...like you said I like the idea of not spilling gas into the water too!

Thanks also for the offer...we are probably neighbors...might have to get you over sometime.

Thanks again.

Hoffer

[LightningBG]

I think that engine might have an inline fuel filter, if so, should be super easy to change, they cost $5-$15 for most that I have seen. Would need the serial number to get the exact one. Chances are a local service station wouldn't have one on hand.

As far as other filters....Gas/water separator?

I'm thinking it MIGHT look something like this, tough to say without the exact serial. #21 should be the fuel filter.

Again, please keep in mind, I'm no mechanic. I normally just take stuff apart and stare at it until I figure out whats going on.

[Hoffer]

Hey thanks lightning!

Great schematic.

When I pick up my boat from storage - I will take a look at where the fuel filter is and see if I can try to figure that one out on my own..doesnt look too hard.

In the meantime, I found a certfified mechanic on mercs that will do the following for 400.00

1. New fuel filter

2. new water impellar

3. compression check

4. Brand new wheel bearings for trailer - not just repacked.

I didnt think that was too bad...but then again - I just dont know if it all needs to be replaced or not. i would probably just do it for preventative manitenance for the canada trip.

On a different note, while at Northern today - I saw LED trailer replacement light kits for 65 bucks. I wonder how hard it is to replace those on your own? I would like the idea of fully submersible lights and not having to replace bulbs all the time!

[walleyemaniac]

400 bucks doesn't sound to bad. To replace the impeller you have to drop the lower unit which I think is 4 or 5 bolts and then another 4 or 5 hodling the pump cover on, slide the old impeller off the shaft, slide the new one on (squeeze the fins inside the housing the same direction the old ones were) put the cover back on, and slide the lower unit back on. Not to hard. But I would have them check it if it's been a few years. Don't foreget the lower unit lube, should be changing that every year as well. The lights aren't to tuff either, and if you have any questions on the wiring it's all pretty basic, color coded, I'm sure someone on here will be able to help you figure it out.

[Stoneman]

What is best way to store boat batteries for winter?? 31 and 24 series. I just give em a good charge and leave in unheated garage, charging them again acouple of times in winter.

[Surface Tension]

What is best way to store boat batteries for winter?? 31 and 24 series. I just give em a good charge and leave in unheated garage, charging them again acouple of times in winter.

That will work fine.

I take mine out of the boat and put the charger on every couple months .

During winter when the power goes out I use them with a inverter in my home.