Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Ice house-finally done; well almost! (PICS)


End of the Line

Recommended Posts

I havent added it up but I know its over 14K and under 15K and thats for every last screw and accessory. And I borrowed the LP tanks off my camper, and the hood and stove were free from an old camper I had. I got the counter tops free as well from a project I had here before, along with the teflon sheet. I bought the heater used for a $100 and a few other smaller deals. grin.gif I only wanted to build one so I figure do it right. wink.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, everyone wanted to know how much it weighs and even I have to say I am a little surprised at the results.

It came it at 4560 lbs with ALL MY GEAR. Then I realized how much stuff I had packed in there already. Dishes, ice chisel, 2 deep cycles, TV, sleeping bags, gas auger, swivel office chair and the list goes on. So when I got home I unpacked everything that was loose at weighed those items only. Turns out I have 590 lbs of stuff. So the house with 2 full LP tanks and 2 deep cycles still weighs in at just under 4000 lbs. I guess considering my truck weighs well over 5500 lbs. this isnt the worst. crazy.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

end of the line where did you get the plans for your wheel lift system and how did it work this season replay here your send me a e mail at [please-post-in-this-thread]@IW.NET OR IF YOU HAVE MORE PIC OF THE WHEEL SYSTEM DO YOU HAVE SPRINGS AND SOME TYPE OF LOCK SYSTEM FOR WHEELSLIFT WHEN TRAVELING DOWN THE ROAD IT LOOKS GOOD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The plans are my design and the season went great without any problems, other than I never get enough time to use it. grin.gif The design for the lift is a fabriaction shop of someone else's as well as the axles. I had the rest of the trailer frame built to my design to accomodate my layout.

There is no springs of any kind. Once the house is lifted, there are 2 saftey arms that pivot back in place and then you just slide in a saftey pin to keep it in place on each side; that's it.

The only thing I am changing is for next season, if I dont sell the house and keep it, is to put on an electric pump and use the hand pump for a back-up only.

Don't be surprised to see it listed here for sale, I already want to build another one. I might try another design to keep improving the mouse trap! grin.gif

Hope this helps, I dont have any other pics of just the axles. If you have questions guys your always more then welcome to call me my number is in this thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey my dad and i are planning on making a 8 x 10 ice house this spring with skids on the bottom. We are trying to spend as little as possible and planning on making 2 fold down beds from the wall. Could you give me some ideas about how to make the floor and wall frames and how far the studs have to be aart and that stuff. My email is [email protected] thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
    • Sketti...  not out of a jar either!
    • Lol yeah I watched that
    • I went ahead and watched some of the MLF coverage.  Wheeler didn’t make the cut but the bigger story was the Poche/Avera fallout.   Kinda funny listening to both sides of the story and putting together the scenario, reading between the lines.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.