Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

What power auger to get?


TSCTSC

Recommended Posts

Trapperdirk-

I might have been typing too fast on that reply of mine. blush.gif

I know you fish in Canada where the ice lasts longer and is thicker than most of us have to deal with in MN, especially this year. Add to that thick ice, bigger fish (larger pike, walleye, and lakers) requiring a bigger hole to reasonably catch them. 3hp + 10" is the way to go, I can't argue with that. For most of us Minnesotans, its overkill.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have the Jiffy and a Nil's? Talk about the complete opposite Augers! Lightness and fast cutting vs heavy and slower cutting. I also agree with the 3 HP being the goto for extreme ice conditions, but I have never seen them here, especially in the last few years? I cannot believe after handling a Nil's that you would deal with the weight and bulkiness of that big Jiffy? confused.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote:

You have the Jiffy and a Nil's? Talk about the complete opposite Augers! Lightness and fast cutting vs heavy and slower cutting. I also agree with the 3 HP being the goto for extreme ice conditions, but I have never seen them here, especially in the last few years? I cannot believe after handling a Nil's that you would deal with the weight and bulkiness of that big Jiffy?
confused.gif


LOL lad well I do have one of each . They each will have they're respective jobs and duties to perform and if anybody traps on here they will be first to tell you its a hardtime fitting a ten inch square 330 conibear down thru an 8 inch hole for starters . LOL I like big holes on cold days and big game species but the Nils will get use on other days especially on search and destroy missions .

I also was on a small splake lake the other day and it had alot of crud inbedded in the ice and I didn't like the thoughts of putting the Nils blades going into that even though I have a spare cutting blade . I'm starting to wonder if I'm going to get thick ice this year myself though because at the moment even just chiselling is working so far but ice it be and walkable but most years I hit the 3ft mark by seasons end and years ago 4ft wasn't out of the question . This year is the first year I recall getting on the ice so late and the bigger lakes ice if any is mighty thin . I'm only on small back lakes at the moment .

TD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It depends on how big a hole you want and how much your willing to spend. Definately the Nils master is the best for speed and it makes a 8 inch hole. If your looking for a cheaper 8 inch Strikemaster would be a good choice. If your looking for a 9 or 10 inch I would go with the Jiffy Stealth Stx.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote:

And to the Eskimo cutting more holes faster than the Strikemaster? Must have been a odd occurence, because the Slice the Ice competition, the Strikemaster comes out on top.


What I was really getting at is I had my auger started and cutting with a lot less trouble than the guy with the Strikemaster. And the truth is so what if they can pop a hole 3 seconds faster than the competitiion, in the grand scheme of things does it really matter?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.