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Transom Saver YES or NO


wallter

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I think using a transom saver is good money spent. I made my own utilizing my drain plug hole,I dont like the idea of the whole weight of the boat slamming into motor/transom against a fixed trailer.Yes I do use straps but they do stretch. My 3.256 cents Blue.

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Do you want all that weight on your drain plug hole wich is on your transom instead of on your trailer?
confused.gif


I was wondering about same thing.... confused.gif

Motor won't slam against trailer since trailer has springs, also transom saver has to be tight with trailer and motor, not loose, so it won't "slam".

I made this example in Expert Forum where this issue comes up very often:

Check this thread, it explains a lot about them.

http://www.fishingminnesota.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=789023&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=3&vc=1

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I have a Ranger 681T the transom is over 1 inch thick and is also near the bottom of the boat also very thick. The Yamaha Trim locks up as well as down so a solid triangle is formed. If one of the coners (the trailer)moves it makes the rest of the triangle weak.Which would put way more stess on the transom than any motor bounce could. Blue

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There are transom savers available which have a heavy spring and a sliding shaft near the bottom where it braces against the trailer. Allowable recoil is determined by how far you trim your motor down after inserting the saver between the lower unit and trailer. Further you compress the spring, the less it can bounce and vice versa.

Basically you bottom out the spring and then trim back up a tick so that it's not rock solid because then you'd just have the straight bar type of transom saver. A buddy has one and it's pretty nice.

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I always used a transom saver with my Deep V Smokercraft. But, I bought a new pontoon boat this year. The motor is in the straight down position while trailering. I have not been able to find a transom saver that will work for this application. The marine dealer said that transom savers are not really needed because of the motor orientation. Anyone have any comments or suggestions?

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Valv,

It sounds like you recommend (even with a saver) that the motor ride as close to up & down as possible. I'm guessing I can adjust my saver to accomodate the up & down goal. Right????? confused.gif

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The more the motor sits vertically the less pressure un transom and saver, but you have to allow for clearance, always keep at least 1 foot distance from bottom of skeg to pavement.

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I have a Ranger 681T the transom is over 1 inch thick and is also near the bottom of the boat also very thick. The Yamaha Trim locks up as well as down so a solid triangle is formed. If one of the coners (the trailer)moves it makes the rest of the triangle weak.Which would put way more stess on the transom than any motor bounce could. Blue


My transom saver is attached to the frame of the trailer and my boat doesn't bounce up and down on the frame of the trailer as it is tied down. If yours does, you may want to work on that a bit. I have had my son follow me and he says nothing moves when I'm on the road. He said I may have a small jiggle when crossing railroad tracks. Just my .02. smile.gif

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If a big heavy boat like a Ranger is bouncing on your trailer you have trailer issues and a transom saver of any sort wont help much. Its more than likely a bunk wich shouldnt give and movement of boat on the road. I would get it looked at asap if thats the case.

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I just read bluehat28s post again and I think he is talking about the tiedowns stretching when the boat bounces on the trailer. Must be some really rough roads. I think you would have to bounce your trailer awfully hard to get the tiedowns to stretch. confused.gif

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