Questions for the pros about my lawn.

[Johnsonator]

This is my second year at my house and my lawn just doesn't look very good. The grass is thin and somewhat dead looking. I also noticed that the sod isn't even attached to the ground in some spots, and the sod contractor didn't put down much black dirt. I have fertilized twice this year with scotts and it didn't make much difference. From what I have read I think I may need to areate the lawn. Any help from the proffessionals would be appreciated. Thanks

[bucketmouth64]

If you don't have a good base of black dirt on top of the sand you will have problems. When I moved into Isanti only 2 inches of black dirt was required. I ended up replacing the sod in front yard because of what you are encountering. A base of 4 inches of black dirt was put down and the sodding party began. Takes more work with the lawns around here because of all the sand. Keep up with fertilizing, overseeding in the fall, aerating. Also, keep the height of your mower high during the summer. This will allow the grass to retain more water and not burn. If you decide to seed, or when overseeding, I've found that fescue grass seeds work best in this area. You can find it at Walmart.

[buckpredator]

For the most part bucketmouth has most of the bases covered. Is your lawn irrigated if so aerating might help now. If it isn't aerating this time of year could ruin your lawn more by drying it out further. Either way if possible you would want to aerate your lawn during a cooler stretch, this causes less stress on the turf. As far as fertilizing if possible use something with a little higher phosphorus content. Phosphorus is beneficial for new lawns and newly sodded lawns because it promotes root growth.

Of course phosphorus is banned at least in the metro without a applicators license. I'm not sure if it is banned in the whole state. so you might have to look into that. well good luck and I hope this helps.

[setterguy]

Water, water and more water is what you need. Black dirt is nice but I have seen guys grow seed in basically beach sand with enough water. You want to make sure you are putting down at least a 1/2" of water per week. Sand is also not very high in nutrients so keep up with the fertilizing and it should come back.

[Johnsonator]

Thanks for the help guys. How often do I need to fertilize, I am scared that I will do too much. Should I worry about this.

[Powerstroke]

Fertilizing can be done as many as 5 times per year. That's the most I would consider. In order to do that many applications you have to know how much fertilizer you are putting down as well as the amount of Nitrogen in the fert.

The idea is to put down 1lb of Nitrogen per application at 6-8 week intervals.

Application times are approximate, but should be some where around Mid-april, Memorial day weekend, late July/Early Aug (only if you are watering regularly), Early Sept and a fall winterizer in late Mid to late Oct.

For the average Joe who doesn't have a sprinkler system and doesn't keep up with watering very well, I would suggest 3-4. Hit those spring ones, skip the mid-summer and get the ones in the fall for good root development.

[Captain B.R.K]

Instead of posting a whole new post, I'll piggy back on to this one since I do want some Pro advice.

I just got a new lawn and am wondering how much water is needed to get the lawn to take? I have gotten so many directions as to what I need to do that my head is a spinnin

I've been told water to the point that the sod is a slip n slide out there, almost like the sod being a sponge.

Is this true?

[Neiko]

I am not a pro but I can tell you my experience. We just got our lawn put in about 3weeks ago. My guy had it watering 3 times a day and after 5 days we cut it back to about 2 a day. My wife wanted once a day because she was afraid of the water bill. I told her I would rather pay a high water bill then pay for a resodding. Well after 5 days we started getting a lot of mushrooms coming up and the dirt was washing out on to the side walk. We also kept it long so the shade would help it out. I am guessing this might have helped the mushrooms also. Well we slowly are going shorter and shorter with it. We mulch and there seems to be an area in the back that seems darker towards the blacker side not greener side. I am hoping it is because we are mulching and it is not some fungus or mold coming up. I did see I have a mole in the back and I am using some Moletox for that. I also saw a neighborhood cat staking out the hole tonight so hopefully he gets fat. As for the water we are now doing it once a day in the morning. Might beef it up if it gets hot and dry for a few days. Hope this helps a little.

[Bobby Bass]

Sod should be kept damp for the first few days with the very first day being important. If weather is very hot then soak it a twice a day. You are already past this point so just watering once a day for the first week then every other day the 2nd week. If it rains skip the day. By day 10 your sod should be binding with the soil underneath. To check just try and lift a corner of a roll of sod. If it resists she is starting to put roots down. You can then reduce watering to twice a week. A lawn needs 1-2 inches of water a week. Preferred in the morning so the Yard can dry out during the day. Do not water at night you will get disease problems. Use common sense, if it's sliding down the hill or turning brown water or stop watering.. always better to deep water once or twice then giving it a sprinkle everyday. Reason being deep watering makes the grass ( or any plant ) grow longer roots in search of water. Shallow watering encourages the roots to grow shallow below the surface. When you get a hot dry spell the roots can't find water.

[Powerstroke]

Nice post Bobby.

I agre that you should be doing 1-1.5" a week. HOw much is 1"? ZGo out and buy 2 or 3 rain gauges. Put them out in your yard in a line in the are you're gonna sprinkler. What you want to find out it is how long you need to water a certain area to get the amount of water you want.

Water 2 times a week with new sod and when it starts taking roots you can keep twice a week or slow to 3 times every 2 week, but still maintaining that 1-2" a week goal. Deeper, les frequent watering encourages deeper root systems and better drought tolerances.

It is better to water in the morning if you have the time or a sprinkler system. If you have to water in the evening try to do it around suppertime rather than before bed cause it will not dry out very fast and you invite fungal diseases.

Also a tip with new sod. It comes so hopped up from the sod farm with fert and pesticides that you do not need to fertilize or treat new sod for 4-6 weeks after it was placed. Long grass is also fine. If it goes to seed, even better. Its spreding its own seeds for overseeding. Try not to mow untill its taller than 4 inches and even them make sure there are some roots or you eat your new sod with the mower.

[LwnmwnMan2]

The biggest problem people have with their lawns is cutting too short.

I've been mowing commercially for 18 years now and can drive by anyone's yard and tell you if it's too short or too long. 85% of the problems start with height of cut.

Never cut your yard shorter than 3" and you'll reduce your problems by 10 fold.

I realize this doesn't really answer the first question, nor the piggybacked question, but it's a tip that I want people to realize.

Also, when you get fertilizer, don't go and get "Ag" type fertilizer at a feed mill. Most people on here probably don't even know where / what a feed mill is, and keep it that way.

Get something that's slow release from Scott's or Lesco.

If you only want a 98% kill rate for your weeds, spray them 1-2 days after the first frost.

I know that starts getting into hunting season, and it's to the point where everyone wants to just give up on the yard since they've been working on it all summer, but it's by FAR the best time to do it.

The schools and parks that I maintain, if someone's on a budget, I always tell them to do it in the fall.