Summerizing sled suggestions

[Sergeant Slabber]

I am new to the snowmobile scene. I just picked a couple used sleds up this weekend and am wondering what I should be doing to get them ready for summer storage. I've added sta-bil to the gas and let that run through already. I've also got the back end sitting on some logs to get the track up off the ground. I don't know if that is necessary. Any suggestions or thoughts are highly appreciated. Thanks!!

[lawdog]

Are these sleds EFI or Carbs? You should fog the carbs and the cylinders (or just the cylinders if EFI). Also take the belt off so no corrosion gets on the clutches. Clean it and that's about all you need to do. Wouldn't hurt to grease everything and check the fluids like brake and anti freeze too, but that's not necessarily a summerizing thing, just good routine check up stuff.

[Sergeant Slabber]

One is older with a carb only, the other is EFI. How do you go about foging the cylinders, or carb for that matter? I'm thinking of getting the clutch and belt replaced so I'll probably hold off on that. And what do you think about having the back end lifted so the track isn't on the ground, is it necessary? Thanks again!

[Uncle Bill]

SNOWMOBILE STORAGE CHECKLIST

Off-season or extended storage requires preventative measures to prolong the service life of your engine and other components. Proper storage preparation greatly improves the life and look of any sled. Use this checklist as a guide to your summer snowmobile storage preparation.

Clean Machine – Clean all areas of the machine with a mild soap and warm water to completely remove all salt and dirt. Don’t use harsh detergents or high-pressure washers. Pressure washers force water into bearings and seals, and some detergents deteriorate rubber parts. Use dish soap or Simple Green™ type cleaners only. Temporarily place duct tape over areas such as the ignition switch and air box intake to keep water out while washing. Wax hood and tunnel (where applicable) with a high quality silicone wax.

Stabilize Fuel – Add Polaris Carbon Clean Fuel System Additive (Polaris part number 2871326) in recommended amount to stabilize fuel. Follow the instructions on the container for recommended amount. Carbon clean will also prevent bacterial growth in the fuel system. Allow 15-20 minutes for the stabilizer to disperse through the fuel in the tank. Start and run the engine long enough to be sure the stabilizer is distributed throughout the entire fuel system.

Protect Metal Parts / Exterior Metal Surfaces – Spray all exposed metal parts including shock absorber shafts with a rust preventative such as T-9 Metal Protectant (Polaris part number 2871064), WD-40™, or LPS-2™.

Grease / Lubricate – Remove the weight from front and rear suspensions and grease all fittings with Polaris Premium All Season Grease (PN 2871423, 14 oz. tube or PN 2871322, 3 oz. tube). Removing weight from the component being greased will help purge water and dirt from shafts and bushings and allow the grease to penetrate the entire joint. Grease the jackshaft bearing, tie rod ends and steering post.

Fog The Engine – Moisture is the number one enemy of an engine in storage. Water vapor is a by-product of combustion, and this, combined with condensation and combustion acids can result in rust and corrosion during storage. Polaris Premium Fogging Oil (Polaris part number 2870791) is high in corrosion inhibitors and is formulated to disperse readily to cling to all internal engine parts, forming a protective barrier against acids and moisture. Warm the engine to operating temperature before fogging and follow the directions on the container. Important Note: Do not start engine during storage period, as this will disturb the oil film created by fogging.

Drain Carburetor Bowls – z Shut fuel off and drain carburetors into a suitable container or shop towel by removing the water trap plug or bowl drain plug. Be sure to follow all fuel handling precautions outlined in your owner’s manual.

Drive Belt / Clutches – Remove drive belt from machine and store in a cool, dry location away from sunlight. Wipe the clutch sheaves with a light rust preventative such as T-9 to prevent oxidation. Attach a note to the drive belt reminding you to clean the clutch sheaves with a non-oil based solvent (lacquer thinner or alcohol) before installing the belt later.

Track – Elevate and safely support machine with track and skis off the ground to minimize spring fatigue. It is not necessary to loosen track tension for regular seasonal storage. Polaris offer an excellent jack stand

Chaincase Oil – Drain chaincase oil. Remove cover and clean entire chaincase thoroughly. Inspect chain and sprocket condition and adjust if necessary. Add new chaincase oil to proper specification. (Polaris chaincase oil part number 2871280 – quart).

Battery maintenance – See battery maintenance article in this months edition.

Fox Shocks – Change Fox™ shock oil annually for maximum performance and corrosion protection. Refer to your local dealer for more information regarding this subject.

Storage Area / Covers – Be sure the storage area is well ventilated. Cover the machine with a fabric tarp or a Polaris snowmobile cover. Note: Do not use plastic or coated materials. They do not allow enough ventilation to prevent condensation and may promote corrosion and oxidation.

(Personaly, I don't remove and clean my chaincase cover.

I simply drain and refill the chaincase. Adjust chain tension.)

[Harmonator]

Have you ever heard of anyone just starting it with the track elavated and letting it good and warm and allowing the track to rotate etc? Would this work or not? Uncle Bill has some great advise and i do most of them.

[nitroant]

You will everything from what was posted above to " I drive it under the oak tree and wait till the snow comes again" from people about how to prepare your sled for summer storage. I don't go over board, but I do most of what was posted above and have not had any problems. I have not heard of anyone having more or less problems based on what they do prior to storage. The one thing I have heard about starting your sled every once in a while in the summer is that it is not good because it pulls moist (humid) air into the engine and then the mositure sits there and rusts. Makes sense, so I do my storage as soon as possible once the season is done just try and minimize the amount of moisture in the air. If the guy who had the sleds before you didn't do any maintence to them prior to storage, the damage may have already been done and there may be no way to stop it now. As far as keeping your track off the ground, it won't hurt anything to do it.

[Uncle Bill]

You should fog your engine crankcase as well as the cylinders.

Starting the motor in the summer for any reason would mean you would have to re fog your crankcase, re fog cylinders, re drain carbs. Makes no sense.

P.S. This reply is not directed to Nitroant or anyone specific. Just the theory that starting your sled every so often in the summer is not a good one.

[Sergeant Slabber]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, it's really helpful for this novice! Can you buy fogging oil at just about any parts store, or is there something special I need? Are there directions on what to do since I've never done it before? I know I sound like a major greenhorn...that's because I am! Thanks again!!

[ChuckN]

You can get a can of fogging oil pretty much any hardware store or auto parts (Fleet Farm, etc.)

I add Stabil to my gas first, run it for awhile to get the stabil into the system and once the engine is good and warm I spray fogging oil right into the carbs. If you have an air intake system, that is good, but most of my Cats over the years I had to take the carb boots off and spray fogging oil into both carbs quickly until the motor dies. Then take the spark plugs out and fog the heck out of the cylinders, put plugs back in, pull the motor over, take plugs out and spray again. I like a good coating of oil.

I never start the sled in the summer. Once they are fogged, they don't run until snow is flying.

I also drain the carbs dry. There is a large nut/bolt on the bottom of the float bowls to drain the gas from the carbs. Spray a little fogging oil into the needle/seat for lube and good to go.

Slabber, I noticed you have one EFI....only fog the cylinders. You don't want to inject fog into the air intake system of an EFI motor, could damage the injectors.

[Uncle Bill]

You can buy fogging oil (in a spray can) at NAPA or just about any auto parts store. To fog the crankcase, spray the fogging oil into each carberator boot untill the motor is ready to die and then kill the engine. To fog the cylinders pull your plugs, spray fogging oil into each cylinder, turn the engine over a few times but do not start it or even fire it. Leave the kill switch in the "kill" position.

I find it easier to pull my carbs, and then drain the feul, than to try to drain the carbs while attached to the motor. Just pull the carbs away from the compliance fittings and leave all cables attached. Drain and reinstall.

Also stuff generic fabric softner sheets in the airbox and exhaust and all around under the hood to keep mice away.

Good luck, hope this helps.

[Sergeant Slabber]

Wow, thanks again for all the helpful hints and quick responses. I guess I have something to do this weekend now! I can't wait to actually use these sleds next winter.

[hanson]

I would most definitely recommend doing the maintenance described by the folks above.

Since my "dilemma" from last year is over with and paid for, I'm a little more comfortable talking about it.

I have an 02 ZR600 EFI Cat. Pulled it out of the garage last fall to start it and I darn near ripped my arm off. The engine was seized up.

In all my years of owning sleds, I've parked them against the back wall of the garage and forgot about them. Clean the carbs out in the fall, fresh gas and ready to go. Well this cat of mine wanted to act a little differently and I had a major problem on my hands.

I brought it into the dealership and explained what happened. The sled was warrantied by an extended warranty company so I had my fingers crossed and prayed to god while my sled was in the shop. I had many phone calls with many people from the dealer and the warranty company and they eventually covered the repair work in full. And for that I am thankful.

I ended up getting my crankshaft rebuilt with new bearings, new pistons, rings, wrist pins, needle bearings, and a full gasket set to go a long with the rebuild. Total damage was darn near $2500!!

What caused it? I dunno other than not properly preparing the sled for summer storage! The bearings on the crank had rusted up and seized the motor and I'm not sure why. There was obviously moisture in the motor and there ya go!