Jiffy Auger

[Bigdaddy18]

Just bought a new Jiffy auger this year. 10", 3hp stealth. HAs not been running the best, or i think that it should run alot better. It my be new and need to be broken in more, but when you are drilling a hole and have it running without choke, it dies out. It will only drill in full choke, then you can switch it over to half choke nad it will drill, but then if you try to switch it off of choke it dies out. Then while drilling it bogs out right before you break through the ice. Not sure why it is doing it. I have checked several times ot see it i have the choke in the right place and that is all good. Anyone have any ideas what might be going on??? Thanks for your help.

[nluchau]

Its a Jiffy. They do that. Those jiffy's are die hard though. It should run right out of the box. I would maybe bring it back or see if you can adjust it somehow. I have a Strikemaster and it ran perfect out of the box.

[SingleShot]

Although new sounds like it's running lean. For some reason some or most of the 3hp jiffy's carbs are not set right from the factory.

I have the same auger with an 8" blade. The problem is the carb adjustments, it is running lean. I quess to keep imissions low. The idle and high speed needles only have a small adjustment due to the red plastic piece attached to the needle screws. This is to keep the needles from being leaned to far and being damaged by someone inexperienced with 2 strokes. I had the EXACT same issues with mine last year. I ultimatly found the carb was set too lean. I couldn't get it to run well at the factory max settings, I popped off the red limit caps (not sure the correct name) and adjusted the carburator on the ice. After I got it running sweet I put the red ??? back on and placed them in the center position to allow adjustment in both directions. This animal will idle to the cows come home and when you hit it, it takes off like a raped ape.

Good luck!

JK

[hanson]

I'm not a Jiffy guy but if I don't let my Strikemaster warm up a little before putting the load to it, it'll stall and kill.

How long are you warming it up before drilling?

[Northlander]

Im with singleshot. My old 10" 3 horse was the same way at times and I had to play with it depending on how warm or cold it was.

[Quackaddict9]

I just bought the Jiffy stealth stx 9" last week thursday and has been running great. I let it warm up a minute or two and runs better.

[Raven]

Had the same problem with my Jiffy Model 30. Ran it for the first time this year and it would idle fine, but if you went full power, it would start to kill. If you backed off, it ran. I had to use half choke the first time out. It was set too lean. I have a Jiffy Legend 3HP that has ran great for 3 years now. Never had to do a thing to it. I had a Strikemaster Lazer 3HP before but it wouldn't run and took it back - been with Jiffy ever since.

[harvey lee]

I have the same auger and if I let it warm up on half choke for a little bit and then take choke off it runs and cuts great. It was new last year and with a few hundred holes behind it, it runs alot better now.

[Toothfish]

Quote:

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Although new sounds like it's running lean. For some reason some or most of the 3hp jiffy's carbs are not set right from the factory.

I have the same auger with an 8" blade. The problem is the carb adjustments, it is running lean. I quess to keep imissions low. The idle and high speed needles only have a small adjustment due to the red plastic piece attached to the needle screws. This is to keep the needles from being leaned to far and being damaged by someone inexperienced with 2 strokes. I had the EXACT same issues with mine last year. I ultimatly found the carb was set too lean. I couldn't get it to run well at the factory max settings, I popped off the red limit caps (not sure the correct name) and adjusted the carburator on the ice. After I got it running sweet I put the red ??? back on and placed them in the center position to allow adjustment in both directions. This animal will idle to the cows come home and when you hit it, it takes off like a raped ape.

Good luck!

JK

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SingeShot has the answer!! The caps on the jets are pollution control. They are on there to keep someone from running too rich and polluting.

[Walterwontfalter]

I have a brand new 9" stealth and it runs perfect out of the box. I just always start it EXACTLY as it states in the manual. Once it starts I switch it to half choke and let it warm up for 2 or 3 minutes. When I set it on the ice it tears through the ice and most times, not all, it cuts all the way through without bogging at the bottom of the hole. If it does I pick it up and set it gently down and it finishes it's job. Next time you use it start it and let it run for several minutes before you start cutting and see how it cuts then.

[iffwalleyes]

It is need a slight adjustment as mentioned. The carbs on the 3hp are touchy whether it is a Strikemaster, Jiffy , or Eskimo they are all the same. I would take it to a Tech. service center and have them adjust it to the proper setting. I have a 3hp 10" stealth that I am on my 3 season with and it usually always starts on the first pull in not the second. I put the choke on full to start and before I even start drilling I kick it to half and usually before I am even done with the first hole I have the choke off. I usually hit the primer about 5 times and pull if it doesn't start hit the primer about 3 more times and it will start on the second about everytime. Some augers require a longer warm up time but I have been luckey that mine requires very little. Mine the first year I owned it started perfect right out of the box but about mid season it started acting up a little I took it in and the adjust the carb and it has been running like a top ever since. Also when you take it in see if the shop is willing to lake test it because they perform differently when under a load that just idle. Some shops will some won't.

[Bigdaddy18]

I did let it warm up for like a minute to minute and a half. Half not been out yet to try it again, been busy with work. But i am going to check around and see if i can find someone that will check it out. Any suggestions for the St. Cloud area would be great. Or i thought about checking out the carb adjustments (red knobs). But don't want to screw anything up. I will let you know what happens. Thanks everyone for the help.

[iffwalleyes]

Yep best to leave those red nobs alone. They are limiter caps that are to allow you only to adjust it a little but sometime it needs more than it will allow. If those caps are removed a service center may not cover the work under warranty. Most centers aren't going to do this but it is better safe than sorry.