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Kicker Motors - How is it done ?


TSCTSC

Question

Am revisiting this issue again since trolling is quite a big thing for me. I am thinking that it is possible to get a Yamaha 8-10HP kicker motor 4 stroke for about 2 grand, brand new with and without an autopilot. How much does it cost to rig it up so that I can continue to steer with my steering console and for it to take gas from my internal fuel tank? How does it work for you people who have kicker motors? Do you tiller steer it when the kicker is down or do you steer it with the boat steering wheel? If it is steered with the boat steering wheel, does it mean that the main motor and the kicker must be linked together? How does it affect the linkage if the main motor has power trim and tilt and the kicker does not? What are the issues involved when trailering a kicker motor? Does it need to have a transom saver too? How much HP is enough and what speeds are ideal? I know I want to troll between 1.5 - 2.5 mph. My current trolling motor at 55lbs 12V run at 1.5 mph at setting of 7-8. My main motor gives about 2.5 - 3mph at the lowest trolling speed. Any advice on kicker motors and a description of how it works on your boats is appreciated. Thanks!

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My kicker is a Yam. 9.9 4 stroke with a tiller handle but I do have a link that is easily added or removed to my main motor. Most of the time I just leave it connected and the tilt of the big motor doesn't bother it.

I got my connector bar from Cabela's for about $24. Don't be fooled into getting one for a lot more. This one is all you need. I know a guy that paid a dealer nearly $200 to put one on his kicker and it is the same bar that took me 15 minutes to install on my boat.

The best part about my kicker set up is a device called a "Troll Master" that lets me adjust the throttle from the console. Highly recommended, especially if you do not have a remote throttle for your kicker already up at your console.

When trailering, I just put the motor in the lowered position without any problem. I have seen some that bounce a bit over bumps but a simple bungee to firm it up when trailering does the trick.

Kickers are great for forward trolling, back trolling in conditions too windy for your electric, and for use on trips where re charging batteries is not an option.

ccarlson

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TSCTSC,

My kicker is not connected to my main motor and that is how I prefer it. I didn't like being "pinned" behind the wheel with nowhere to manuever to fight the fish. I have an extended handle on mine and I really like sitting in the back and controlling the boat from there.

To get gas from the main tank, you need to install a "t" valve that you can get from any marine dealer for around $30.00, along with another gas line. With this valve you just turn it to whichever motor you want to use. If you decide to go this route, let me know and I will post pictures and instructions on how I rigged mine.

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My kickers have been tiller controlled and mounted on the port side -- if you mount a tiller kicker on the starboard side you need to make sure you have enough clearance between the tiller arm and the big motor when turning to the right (not an issue if you go with remote controls for the kicker).

I like Merc 4-stroke kickers with the Twist-Grip shifting where Forward - Neutral - Reverse and the throttle are all controlled by turning the throttle handle - very convenient.

I normally run my kicker from the tiller but when trolling open water or not following a precise contour I occasionally steer with my big motor using it as a rudder. It's a nice change of pace at times but personally I have no interest in having to run the kicker from the console the majority of the time. I haven't done this yet but I'm considering getting a TrollMaster throttle and a removable steering link to give me the flexibility to run it from the console or the tiller -- but in the meantime I'll happily run it from the tiller.

As for speeds, I can forward troll about 1.0 mph and get up to about 5.5 to 6.0 mph according to my gps. Backtrolling speeds can be as slow as a crawl.

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OK....been doing some thinking. Perhaps I would go to Cabelas and get the 8-9.9HP mercs 4 strokes with electric start 20 inch shafts for about 2+k and mount it myself to the port transom. And then I will go to a dealer to buy the T valve and the connectors so that I could rig this motor to my main tank. I think I say that control rod at Gander for about 24 USD and I believe Cabelas would have that too. It did not look too difficult to rig it up. I would do with the tiller on the kicker for the time being and later on, I might experiment with the digitroll. And I think that I would probably take the kicker off whenever I am going to trailer the boat a long ways, otherwise, I would keep it in the down position on my port transom. How does this plan sound?

THanks

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You may want to check out the Yamaha T8's. Specifically designed to be a trolling kicker, they have a fast power tilt and high thrust gear mechanism for pushing/turning a big boat in the wind. If you troll for awhile with livewell pump, radio, locator, lights, etc running off your starting battery, you could drain it enough to have difficulty starting your main motor. However, the T8 has a small alternator to keep the battery charged. I have also launched a couple times after having my boat sit on the trailer for a few weeks, and discovered the battery was too weak to start the main motor. But it was strong enough to start the T8, which then charged the battery in short order.

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I'd also check out the Yamaha T8, I'd buy another one in a heart beat. I use it on my 17' Fishhawk for a kicker and I've also used it on a 12' Lund as the main motor. I also tried to find a used one and found none. I asked a dealer about used T8's and he said the only time he's ever seen one traded in was when it was on a boat or one guy who traded in a remote T8 for a tiller T8. If you like this motor you'll probably have to bite the bullet and buy new. I plan to hang onto mine for many boats.

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Well,

I personally want to get a Yammy kicker to go with my Yammy main. But I prefer the Merc as a tiller as you can switch from reverse to forward more easily. I guess it is a small issue. However, I wonder what HP should I get? Should not 8HP be more than enough? What is the max speed I could get on a Lund 16 pike with a 8HP? Thanks

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If you're looking at new motors the T-8 is great ...... but the Merc Pro Kicker is just as good and probably better.

There won't be any diff in performance between an 8 or a 9.9. Both will troll as slow as you could ever want, both will push the boat 5 mph+.

Personally, I'm a big fan of having the kicker match the big motor --- I just like the way it looks.

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Do you have any pictures of your setup and rigging? It would be most helpful for me when I am planning the setup. Also, I do downrigger trolling so do you think the kickers will get in the way of my stern downrigger? Do you have any experience with downriggers?

Thanks

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HERE IS THE WAY I HAD MY BOAT SET UP THIS YEAR IN MICHIGAN. I KNOW, I KNOW THE ELECTRICS SHOULDN'T OF BEEN IN FRONT OF THE MANUALS BUT THATS WHERE THE ELEC. BASES WERE MOUNTED WHICH MADE MOST SENCE WHEN RUNNING ONLY 2. THE OTHER BOARD WITH THE 2 MANUALS WAS MADE TO BE REMOVABLE WHEN ITS NOT IN USE WHICH IS 99% OF THE TIME.

riggerse4jn.jpg

riggersc4bi.jpg

riggersd0mj.jpg

I ALSO HAVE MY KICKER SETUP ON TILLER WITH THE CONECTING ROD FOR THE BIG MOTOR WHEN NEEDED. WHEN I PURCHASED THE BOAT THE KICKER WAS ON REMOTE WITH ALL THE CONTROLS AT THE CONSOLE. TO ME THE BOAT IS EASIER TO CONTROL BACK THERE FOR WHAT I USE IT FOR MOST WHICH IS MILLE LACS.

I AGREE WITH THE OTHERS I LIKE MY KICKER TO MATCH MY MAIN MOTOR. I KNOW PEOPLE WHO HAVE THE T8 AND THEY LOVE THEM SO IF YOU HAVE A YAMMY I WOULD GO WITH THE T8. IF YOU HAVE A MERC FOR THE MAIN GO WITH THE 9.9 PRO THEY ARE ALSO VERY SWEET MOTORS VERY COMPETITIVE WITH THE T8! MY KICKER IS A 9.9 FOUR STROKE IT GETS THE JOB DONE BUT IT WOULD SURE BE NICE TO HAVE THE ELEC. TRIM/TILT.

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The T8 pushes my 17' Lund Pro Sport about 6 mph. There is a dealer in Red Wing offering new '05 T8s for just under $2200. Email me at bobonrainy at gmail.com and I can point you to the ads. (I have no connection or experience with that dealer...)

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Perfect! Downriggers and kicker! Thanks so much for the pics and for posting. Ur boat has everything for the big water - kicker, rod holders, downriggers, VHF etc!

Looking at the pics, it seems that you have a innovative way to get the stern downriggers out, using that long wooden plank. So this avoids the problem of a downrigger hanging over the kicker.

I also see you are basically running the kicker using the tiller right now as I do not see any control rods or cables going to it. Can I also assume that the kicker is something that you basically screw on and you can take it off quite easily too? Are there any issues with the tiller hitting the side of the boat when you are making a right turn with the kicker?

Also, are you running that kicker off your main tank?

Last question - any issues setting the lines on the 4foot booms on the rear downriggers?

Thanks again for showing your boat!

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THE REAR DOWNRIGGERS ARE ALSO ON A SWIVEL BASE SO YOU CAN ADJUST THEM AS NEEDED TO GET THEM TO CLEAR WHATEVER IT MAY BE. WITH THE BOOM ALL THE WAY EXTENDED YOU NEED A HOOK TO GET THE DOWNRIGGER CABLE/BALL IN THE BOAT, THOSE ARE ALSO VERY EASILY MADE.

AS FAR AS RUNNING THE KICKER FROM THE TILLER HANDLE I JUST ADJUST THE SPPED THERE WHEN I HAVE THE BOAT SET UP LIKE THIS AND STEER FROM THE CONSOLE. I HAVE A CONNECTING ROD TO TIE THE MOTORS TOGETHER. I NEVER TAKE MY KICKER OFF I USE IT ALL THE TIME. I SUPPOSE I COULD IF FOR SOME REASON I HAD TOO! YES THE HANDLE ON THE KICKER WOULD HIT THE GUNNEL OF THE BOAT IF YOU DIDN'T TILT IT UP WHEN MAKING SHARP RIGHT TURNS.

YES THE KICKER IS ALSO RUN OFF THE MAIN TANK. I DO HAVE A SHUT-OFF VALVE INSTALLED IN LINE BECAUSE I HEARD HORROR STORIES THAT WHEN A GAS LINE IS JUST T'D AND THE OPTI WAS UNDER FULL THROTTLE IT WOULD SUCK GAS FROM THE TANK AND AT TIME ALSO THE KICKER AFTER SUCKING THE KICKER DRY THERE IS NOTHING ELSE TO DRAW BUT AIR AND THEN YOU KNOW WHAT HAPPENS. I NEVER HAD A PROBLEM, JUST A PERCAUTION. THE NEW BOATS NOW HAVE TWO PICKUPS FROM THE TANK.

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Ahh...So the connecting rod will save me USD700 cos that was what the dealer quoted to have a remote and cable installed for the kicker.

What do you do with the connecting rod and the kicker when you are going WOT on your main motor? Do you leave the kicker in the water or do you tilt it up?

Also, when trailering, do you leave the kicker down or do you tilt it up?

Thanks!

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