help please

[beretta]

hey guys I am relatively new to bow hunting and I need a little help. Im dead on for height and shooting good groups but Im consistantly 6 inches to the left of my bullseye. My sight is directly above my arrow and I know I can move my sight but the way I look at it if my form is right and my bow is tuned it should shoot straight. My bow is tuned so it has to be my form. Can anyone tell me what Im doing wrong? Thanks for any help you can offer.

-Kyle

[Deitz Dittrich]

b-, Torque does happen. As long as you torque the same each and every time. Then there isn't really a problem in my opinion. Its torque on the bow that is causeing your bow and sights to not line up. Its not your form, its not the bow, its just a part of archery. Very few people have the arrow and center shot line up with the sight. Sight it in to where it hits!.. you will be fine and rest easy.

I know that I have 3 bows I shoot quite a bit. My target bow, my hunting bow and another I shoot just target for fun sometimes... all of them the sights do no line up with the arrow, yet on paper test they shoot bullet holes. You are trying to achieve something that may not be possible.

Torque is created by the fact that the arrow does not pass threw the center of the handle of the bow. Instead the arrow must fly beside the riser with enough clearance for fletching. Thus creating torque. Shoot with an open hand, relaxed, and confident!

[Royce Aardahl]

my pins have never lined up directly over the arrow. always out to the left. start by moving your pins 1/8 inch to the left and if you are shooting great groups in the bullseye your form is probably fine. as deitz stated relax your grip if you are holding it tight. good luck and happy hunting.

[beretta]

Hey thanks guys. I appreciate the help. Now that I think about it what you have said makes sense. I will move my sight and see what happens tomorrow. Maybe my perfect group will actually hit the bullseye. that would be pretty cool.

[Powerstroke]

I would probably disagree that it is torque seeing that all of your groups are left. IMO that says your sight is too far right.

Bullet holes are great, but they don't make you hit the target.

[ghotierman]

I learned from PSE's guru George Chapman..."the bow is tuned when it groups arrows consistently"....if you have a consistent grouping...make your pins follow your shot....is your group 6 inches left at 20 yeards? or 10? the distance you're shooting will determine how far to move your sight window.

form wise, torque can be a factor too, and also peeking the shot. i shoot left-handed, and find that if i've not shot in a few days, the first few shots tend to be up a bit and right of bullseye....whereas last round the day or two before i was shooting all x's....before i started moving pins, or thinking conspiracy at the shop and someone monkeying with my set-up, i step to the line and go through my form very deliberately...concentrating on a relaxed grip...and a following thru with the sight....i found that i'd 'peek' at the shot on release....almost the same as looking up on a golf swing...the shots were consistently right....when i'd follow thru....keep looking down the peep, pin, target...my anchor was more true, and the shots were back on center.

so...some factors....sight window alignment, form; grip, anchor, site follow thru....what ever you do to correct it...make sure your pin points to where the shot will go!

good luck

[lichen fox]

After checking all the normal tuning set-ups, I am an advocate of a paper test. Simply set up a piece of paper so it is held tightly on a free standing frame...place it three or four feet in front of your backstop, step back from the "paper" about 3 feet and shoot an "unfletched" shaft through the paper...if your bow and arrows are tuned properly there should be a "clean" hole...no tearing right, left or up or down. You can use a fletched arrow, but I prefer no feathers or vanes when doing this test. Also when you do this shoot with a completely open hand on the bow...no gripping or grabbing of any kind, (be sure you have a sling on your bow or it will be on the ground!) This is the most simple and effective test for checking the "total tune" of your bow & equipment!

[mnz71hunt]

You should always be moving your pins in the direction of the arrows. If your shooting left, move the pin left. If your shooting high, raise the pin, etc, etc.

If your groups are consistent, then chase the group. Where the arrow ends up is more important than what part of the bow your pins line up with.

Good Luck.

[charliepete2]

You mentioned that the sight was in line with the arrow, but you didn't mention what the relationship of the rest was to the string. If you draw a line from the string to the center of the limbs, does the rest line up in the middle? If it doesn't that would explain a few things.

Basicaly when I start off with a new bow I adjust the rest to center on the string like I described above. Then I adjust the height of the rest so that the arrow is level with the burger hole (where the rest screws in) and making a 90 degree angle from the string. This is the starting point that I start tuning from. Depending on spring tension in the rest, form of the archer, and a host of other factors I make adjustments. I generally rely on paper tuning tied in with bare shaft tuning. I start off by tuning to a bullet hole, but then I follow Easton's tuning guide to bring my field points in line with my broadheads.

For anyone knew to tuning Easton has a really good document on their HSOforum.

[Iceman77]

Don't worry about how the pins line up with the arrow in a static and not drawn position. The cable guard is a high torque influence. As the bow is drawn the buss cables attached to the cable guard will torque the bow inward towards the arrow which will move your sight the opposite direction. The only way to eliminate cable guard torque is to purchase a cable shoot through system. The good thing to note is the cable guard torque will be the same for every shot and repeatable therefore it really is not important. In summary move your arrow rest to where you achieve good groups then move your pins to where your arrows are hitting. All is well if you are shooting good groups.

[Ben1022]

In almost every situation, a right handed shooter will have pins that are out slightly to the left of center of the rest. The Converse is true for left handed shooters. This is due to the way you anchor and most find an anchor point w/the nose on the string and another point w/the string running close to the edge of your mouth. This is not the rule but this is where you typically find people anchoring and thus, the parallax is the reason and need for the pins to be just outside the verticle centerline of the rest.

It matters not where your sight pins are. As a test, try anchoring differently in terms of lateral movement and see where your arrows impact. Bottom line, close your eyes and draw back. When if feels comfortable, that's where the peep sight should go and adjust sights accordingly.

Ghotierman as well as George are correct, grouping is the key and the most important part. However I agree w/the papertuning aspect, especially when you're shooting broadheads.(However, I don't know if George still subscribes to the paper tuning theory). Those blades, no matter how high of profile or low, even on a mechanical broadhead, are going to affect the arrows flight and if it isn't coming off the bow straight, you're in for some headaches at longer ranges. Plus, if you're fletching and blade orientation are not uniform, you'll be all over the board at longer ranges.

We're all built a little different and that is why I likely can't pick up your bow and hit the middle and visa versa. Good luck and good shooting, guys.