Trailering questions?

[BLACKJACK]

First trip out with the travel trailer on Friday, of course the winds were gusting to 25 mph, kind of made me nervous, some swaying but we did all right.

Questions: we have the load leveling hitch with the two bars alongs side the hitch, how 'tight' or hard do you want to raise those bars? The guy at the dealer showed me how to just hitch up the trailer, then raise the hitch with the jack about 5 inches, install the two bars, then let it down, transferring some of the weight to the two bars. The back of the pickup sags some, was wondering if raising the bars another notch would help?

Safty chains, it seems like they're too long, I had to twist them considerably to keep them from dragging, is that right? I'm pulling this 24 foot trailer with a stock 2005 Chevy Siverado 1/2 ton, do I need some shock adjustments?

[fish-n-geek]

The best way to check is far from the easiest. You want to look at your weight ratings. Measure the total weight, as well as the weight on each axle. It might take some math, depending on what scale you have access to. I pull a 24 footer with an F250 and a normal (non-weight-transfer) hitch with no trouble. If the dealer is close, I would hook it up the way you did it and then have one of the mechs take a look, to see if they have any recommendations.

-r-

[sunnyj]

I have a 26ft fithwheel that squats my GMC 1/2 ton so I added air bags to the rear axle, makes all the difference in the world. Keep an eye on your weight limit for the tow vehicle and change the trany fluid each year.

[catfish1]

we have the same set up as Fish-n-geek. And I have pulled many campers with a 1/2 ton pick-up but will never do it without my F250 4x4 ever again. The weight of the 3/4 ton makes all the differents. I do put on the stablizer bars but not the sway bars. And I also make sure all the tire pressures are right. And that everything is tied down and ready to go. I hate having trouble on the road.

Catfish1

[united jigsticker]

Black..

Do you have the 3:42 rear end in that truck.

I know most the chev half tons are stock in 2005 with that gearing.

And how does it tow for you?

I assume you have the 5.3 L

[MedicDan]

I tow a 26'(they say) actually 29.5' travel trailer with my dodge durango. This works just fine, 3 links on the weight dist. bars and I have the sway setup up, all works fine.

[BLACKJACK]

uj, I have the 5.3 liter. As far as power goes, it was fine. On the way home, with less wind, I cruised at 60 just fine. On the rearend, I'll have to check my book tonight.

Whats the difference between a 'sway bar' and a 'stabilizer bar'. Some of the older stabilizer hitches had the three foot bars on a chain that you had to pry up. My hitch, that I got from the trailer dealer, has 'shelves' that you have to pry the bar up to, then a pin holds it in place.

What I'm really trying to find out here (see my first post) is whether I need pry those bars up another notch? Will that help with the leveling of the truck? A trip to the dealer is definately in order but I'm just trying to find out from you experienced camper towers. I agree, a 3/4 ton truck would be better, but I also need to drive this vehicle the rest of the year...

[CodyDawg]

As far as driving the vehicle the rest of the year...I wouldnt be afraid of driving a 3/4 ton. I wouldnt trade my F250 even if I never towed another thing. They are fantastic everyday vehicles. They are safe and with the diesel I get upper teens in mileage.

[Norsk Fisker]

I am very new at this, but when mine was set up, the whole rig set pretty level. I thought that was the purpose of the hitch. I would try setting it up a notch. I've seen many trailers towed with 1/2 ton rigs. If I towed it a lot, I would go to a 3/4 ton but I wouldn't worry about rushing out to trade.

Happy trails.

[BLACKJACK]

I searched and found this post again, wanted to give a quick update.

After talking to numerous people, salespeople and otherwise concerning options - air bags on the truck, adding another special leaf spring to the truck, 'donuts' added to the truck suspension, I went the easy and cheap route and just moved the sway bars up two notches, to the point where instead of them sitting level, they actually look like they're resting at an angle, with the higher end toward the truck. It actually helped alot, the truck didn't get weighed down so bad on the hitch/the front end wasn't so 'light'. I'm actually thinking about moving it up one more notch. Is it possible to adjust it too far the other way?

[Finns]

In your first post you talk about safety chains being too long and you twisting them to shorten. Are you crossing them under your hitch before hooking to your truck. They should make an X under your tongue/hitch. That way if the trailer comes off the hitch the tongue would land on the X and not down on the road (hopefully).

Finns.

[bbqhead]

sounds like you have the equilizer brand hitch. i wouldnt

put to much tension on the bars. raise up the whole hitch

another hole up. you want hte vehicle and trailer to be in

a straight line. i have installed 100s of these so if you

have any ?s you can email me at [email protected]

randy aka bbqhead

[BLACKJACK]

Yes I am crossing them under the hitch.

[BLACKJACK]

Quote:

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raise up the whole hitch

another hole up.

---

What do you mean by that?

Quote:

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you want hte vehicle and trailer to be in

a straight line.

---

Thats kind of the problem I'm trying to correct by cranking up on the stabilizer bars. The truck and camper are in a straight line - when the truck is empty. When I start loading down the truck with wood, coolers, etc, then it starts to sag. By cranking up the stabilizer bars two notches, I was able to get that straight line between the truck and camper.

bbq, where are you located at? i'd actually like to show you my setup.

[bbqhead]

i live in east st paul, but work in forest lake.

i could look at it for you.

randy

[BLACKJACK]

Too far to travel from Willmar just for a lookover, and most of our trips we're heading North or west.

How about my questions on my previous post?

[bbqhead]

where the ball part connects to the reciever part, there

should be 2 big bolts that go through the reciever part.

i would raise that up 1 hole, that would take tension

off the bars. tension on the bars is good but you can over

do it.. norm on the "shelf" brackets is 3 1/2 holes showing

at the top.

randy