Jiffy help

[Evenflow]

I have an older (at least 10 years old) Jiffy auger passed on to me through the family. I got it last year and was very happy with how it ran, especially once I got a new blade for it. This year I pulled it out of storage about a month ago and was very surprised to see I hadn't drained the gas out of it. Since I was getting my ice fishing equip ready I decided to start it. It took a dozen pulls or so and she blazed to life and ran great. So I ran her until she was warmed up, (using most of the little gas that was left) and moved her to her winter location. Last Saturday, I mixed new gas, filled her up and tried to start her again. She started with the choke on full and ran like she was cold, however with the choke on full squeezing the throttle didn't effect how she was running. After 10-12 seconds she would kill. She wouldn't start half choked (ever), but would start again after 4-6 pulls full choked. If I switched the choke from full to half while she was running, then the throttle would work, and any pressure on the throttle would crank her up to high speed and kill. Flipping from full to half (while running) with no throttle would immediately kill. I probably started her 30-40 times in the course of a half hour, and now I'm very sore today. But I'm not the greatest with engines, so obviously I'm stumped.
I had some success adjusting both the idle speed, and ONE screw on the carb last year to get her to run better between holes. I tried the single screw on the carb Sat and couldn't find a setting that changed the end results. The screw setup looks similar to:

O
L H

with the O being the screw

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

Evenflow

[wasssit]

does it start to drip fuel when you prime it??

[iffwalleyes]

Your carb is gummed up with the old gas you ran through it the first time you ran it. That is common old gas will start the first time but then after you have ran if for a while it stirs it up and it will plug the jets. check and see how far the carb screws are out. Do this by turning the screws in till they stop should be around 1 1/2 turns remember that number back the screws out and spray carb cleaner into the jets put the screws back in and turn them back to the proper settings. Make sure that if you filled the tank and mixed new gas with old dump it out and put in a completely fresh tank. Put a new plug in and you should be set. If it still runs poorly you are going to have to do more to the carb that previous mentioned. Try that first and see how it works. Another suggestion is to replace the Carb Diaprhams it is a simple change make sure to install the diaprah according to the picture on the package. That should take care of your problems.. Good luck...

------------------
Grip it and Rip it

IFFWalleyes
I Fish For Walleyes
[email protected]

[Evenflow]

Just to be clear, there is only one screw on the carb. (see the poor diagram in the first post) Still the same directions?
Changing a diaphragm sounds a little too personal to me, but I'll give anything a shot to get back fishing. Where would I get these diaphragms?
Thanks,

Evenflow

[crappie todd]

With any auger always change the plug at the begining of the season. Always carry a spare. A plug might pass the spark tests but won't fire under compression. Or will have no power. Plugs go bad just sitting over the summer,
There is a power screw adjustment on the jiffy motor. one for idle. The power adjustment is best done with assistance of another person.
run some sea foam in your gas to keep the carb clean.
CT

[This message has been edited by crappie todd (edited 12-23-2003).]

[Evenflow]

I have an older (at least 10 years old) Jiffy auger passed on to me through the family. I got it last year and was very happy with how it ran, especially once I got a new blade for it. This year I pulled it out of storage about a month ago and was very surprised to see I hadn't drained the gas out of it. Since I was getting my ice fishing equip ready I decided to start it. It took a dozen pulls or so and she blazed to life and ran great. So I ran her until she was warmed up, (using most of the little gas that was left) and moved her to her winter location. Last Saturday, I mixed new gas, filled her up and tried to start her again. She started with the choke on full and ran like she was cold, however with the choke on full squeezing the throttle didn't effect how she was running. After 10-12 seconds she would kill. She wouldn't start half choked (ever), but would start again after 4-6 pulls full choked. If I switched the choke from full to half while she was running, then the throttle would work, and any pressure on the throttle would crank her up to high speed and kill. Flipping from full to half (while running) with no throttle would immediately kill. I probably started her 30-40 times in the course of a half hour, and now I'm very sore today. But I'm not the greatest with engines, so obviously I'm stumped.
I had some success adjusting both the idle speed, and ONE screw on the carb last year to get her to run better between holes. I tried the single screw on the carb Sat and couldn't find a setting that changed the end results. The screw setup looks similar to:

O
L H

with the O being the screw

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

Evenflow

[Surface Tension]

Your probably gummed up but first try a new spark plug and fresh fuel.

[Evenflow]

Ok, last night I put in a new spark plug. When I got the spark plug I asked what they thought at the shop and they had me buy an additive for the gas. I don't remember the name, but it was a clear bottle with a green cap. I added some to the gas before I put the new plug in. After 12 pulls she started up, and was running pretty well. After about 40 seconds she bogged down and killed, then started the same pattern as described above. (starting only under full choke to kill within 10 seconds) So having no idea what to do I took off two plates (one on each side) on the carb. The first was held on by 1 screw and revealed a plastic seal, and under that a metal plate with two round depressions and two metal screens. So I put the plate back on. The second plate was held on by four screws, looked like it had a diaphragm attached to it, and under it was a float ball of some sort. I pushed in the ball a couple of times, and didn't know what else to do, so I put it back together. The strange thing is that after all of this I pulled the cord a few times and she fired right up and ran great. I made a few minor adjustments while she was running on the single screw on the carb that is spring wrapped and marked with the H and L. It ran better, but I'm not sure what exactly I was doing. I'd really like to make sure that my adjustments didn't make it so I'm running it too lean. That screw is now at about 1 3/4 turns from fully seated.

Also, I moved since the last time I used the auger. Somewhere in the move the shaft got bent. It was always bent a little, but it's worse now. I think it's still fishable, but I'm worried about ever trying to find a new one, because the auger is so old that it rotates in the opposite direction of all the new Jiffys. Anyone know of an old Jiffy I could get the auger from? Or if there is a shop that could straighten the shaft?

Thanks for all your help and have a great holiday!!!

Evenflow

[This message has been edited by Evenflow (edited 12-24-2003).]

[Rainman]

The adjustment of 1 3/4 turns is about right for your jiffy. 1.5 to 1.75 turn is typical! As far as putting new gas and a new spark plug every year I believe is B.S.(IMO) I bought my Jiffy in "93" and it still has the original plug in it and I never drain my gas out of it at the end of the season and it ALWAYS starts the next winter when I bring it out! The gas in it right now is from last year and it runs GREAT!

[Ed Carlson]

Evenflow this may help you out. These two links will put you onto download-able manuals for the power heads. I am not sure what model you have but it will translate to one or the other of these.

Operating Manual for the 30 Series, 3 H.P. Models.
http://www.jiffyonice.com/Jiffy%20Model%2030%20Operating%20Manual.doc

Operating Manual for the 70 Series, 2H.P. Models.
http://www.jiffyonice.com/Jiffy%20Model%2070%20Operating%20Manual.doc

You will not get hi-detail schematics of carb components or such, but it should help you out.

------------------
Ed "Backwater Eddy" Carlson

Backwater Guiding
"ED on the RED"
[email protected]
><,sUMo,>

[Rainman]

Surface, I didn't say that it was a terrible thing to do. Everyone always says you HAVE TO DO THIS OR THAT every year! Whatever! Sorry for posting my experience! That's why I put IMO next to it! IN MY OPINION!

[This message has been edited by Rainman (edited 12-26-2003).]

[Surface Tension]

Rainman If your auger doesn't run, how is changing the plug and putting fresh gas in BS?
Running the carb dry, adding stabilizer, fogging, changing plugs, is preventive maintenance. Old spark plugs may work fine but they're hard on an ignition system.

[Huck Finn]

I have had a jiffy model 30 for about 8 yrs now. It has been a great starter and I haven't any problems in that area, however last year it started to catch just as I cut through the ice hole and nearly twists my arm off if I'm not prepared for it.I have changed the blade and still the problem persists this year.I maintain my things pretty well so it looks just fine.Any pointers ? Perhaps shim the blade?

[Surface Tension]

Its catching on the last chunk of ice before you break through. Same as a drill going through steel, just let off on the downward pressure a bit.

[Evenflow]

Have you ever had a moment where you go "Huh? Ohhhhh...." as a light bulb turns on in your head and then your face turns beat red because you feel like an one-who-thinks-I-am-silly? I had that experience today as I walked through Gander Mountain. I was passing through the augers when it occurred to me that this auger that has been "passed down" to me is in fact not a Jiffy, but a chipper style Strikemaster. I'm not sure why I always thought it was a Jiffy, except for maybe the chipper blade. But it does explain the opposite rotation. At any rate. It shouldn't change any advice should it? I believe they are all the same motors.
So I finally got the auger out last weekend (using a new plug) and it drilled 7 holes in a row great, and then killed whenever it had any torque (cutting ice) put on it. It seemed to run ok, until it touched the ice and then would kill. I even tried another new plug and had someone that knows a bit about carbs shoot some goop into it. But no luck. Any thoughts now? Thanks.

Evenflow

[Surface Tension]

Well it explains why you only have the one mixture screw. Use that adjustment screw to where it doesn't bog. If it doesn't work theres some other things you can try. Strikemasters have 2 style gas caps. One is steel and has a vent screw and the other is plastic with a valve that vents. Vent the tank by loosening the gas cap while drilling holes.
Check the fuel line for a kink or break.
Remove the fuel line at the carb and back flush the fuel filter by spraying carb cleaner with straw inserted into the fuel line. Wear eye protection. The filter is in the gas tank. If none of that works you'll have to get the carb kit. Make sure you soak it overnight in a carb cleaner. Use a thin wire to clean out jets and passageways then spray it again and blow it. out. Take note on how you the governor and its linkage goes back together.