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J Rookie K

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Lets talk about rods, what types do you like. This is not ment to be " if you could only have 1 rod " type topic. List them, I want to hear about jigging, live bait rig, trolling, and any other walleye rod you guys prefer. You could tell us why you like them also.

I have owned many rods over the years, and Im still trying to match the right rod for different applications. Currently Im looking for a good jigging rod. I have a few in mind, just kinda waiting to hit the lottery grin.gif. I understand that " jigging " is broad term. Specifically, a vertical jigging rod is what Im looking for. But you dont have to comment on just jigging rods. I know this topic has been brought up alot, but with all the new rods out, and some of these custom rod makers popping up, its a good subject. I think Ill have Bill at Midwest Rod and Reel build me one.

Thanks, Justan.

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J Rookie, I have several rods built by Bill at Midwest Rod and Reel and they are all walleye rods. They range from 6ft jigging rods to 14ft trolling rods and I love them all! If you would like to take a look at them first hand stop by the walleye and bass expo this coming weekend an see us.

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Hey I did get your call last week, but I didn't get it until tuesday. I was north of duluth snowmobiling. As far as rods go, I always seem to have way to many of them. I would like to get a 5'6" or 5'2" medium or medium light wtih a fast tip for verticle jigging walleyes. I have a 6' Loomis now that I use, very nice rod. My next one will be built by Bill and All though. I also have a couple of their rods and think they are well worth the money, especially in an application like a jigging rod.


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Every one likes different types for differant styles of fishing.. Here is what I have.


Scheels Tournament IM8- 7 ft- I like this for jigging

Shimano Aero- 6.5 ft only for casting cranks.

2 7ft Berkley Roach- I never take the slip bobber off of these.

2 soft action rods for live bait.


4 Cabelas Depthmaster 8.5 ft rods. 2 for Fireline, 2 for leadcore.

2 intercast Depthmasters for fireline that I'll use as spares or guests in my boat.

My next rod will be another Scheels IM8 to replace my current crank casting rod.

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Im not sure you can have too many rods. I do have one that would make a good jigging rod. 6' Med, Grandt All Star. I bought it at a sportsmans show about 6 to 7 years ago. I just have never given it a good workout.

Still gotta get a new one. These kids gotta have gear too. Thats what I tell my wife anyway. Where and when is the Walleye/Bass expo?

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J Rookie K,

Boy do I have the rod for you. My favorite rod is a 6'3" St Croix Avid series medium action X-Fast tip spinning rod. Couple that with a Shimano Symetre reel and you have an awsome jigging rod. especially for vertical jigging.

For live bait rigging I like a 7' St Croix Avid Series medium-light fast spinning rod.

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Rod I like the most out of my arsenal is a 6'3" Loomis Walleye Series Medium action rod! Tip is super sensitive and great back bone for settin the hook.

Another rod that I recently purchased (last year) was a Shimano Compre 6'6" Spinning Medium action rod. I also bought a 7'6" baitcasting rod at the same time---great rods for the money. Both have a great action and sensitivity.

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J Rookie,

Since you keyed on a "jigging rod" I have a few ideas on the subject.

"Jigging" has become a very broad term, but don't be scared by multiple techniques(that comes with time on the water) or suckered into buying a bunch of rods either.

Simply put, if "vertical jigging" you will need a VERY sensitive and fast action rod. The top third or less is where the action lies. NOw, the hard part, meeting your personal preference. Cause there are oodles of rod manufacturers and all vary to degree in their sensitivity and action.

When vertical jigging, I like a rod I can snap the hook-set with.

Thus a fast action medium light 6 to 6 1/2 foot rod. Being vertical means just that up and down and on top of. If your rod is too long, I personally believe the hook-set, especially when severely subtle, will be jeapordized.

Talking sensitivity. Generally the higher the "modulus" of graphite the more brittle and sensitive. However, you could have a high modulus rod and a "looser scrim", lessening some the sensitivity. The scrim is how the fibers are woven in the graphite.

SOme simply are wrapped horizontally around you go up and down the rod. Others use a "cross-scrim" etc etc.

Take time to go to a store that allows you to hold a rod in your hands when in the decision making process. Always do this unless you have had past experience with a certain make and model.

HEre is a couple tips that "could" help especially with a "vertical jigging" rod.

MIght sound corny, but if you already have the reel of choice, bring it along with you to the store. Then take the time to match it with your rod of choice, checking on balance and feel.(Can use stores reels of course).

Then if it comes down to a couple rods, hold the rod tip down and lightly rub it on the carpet(if available at the retailer). You will mimic what you will feel on the water, vibrations running up the rod to the handle. You CAN notice huge differences in sensitivity this way.

Enough said:

My favorite vertical jigging rod to date(yet expensive)

is the G-Loomis IMX series in fast action medium light, cork handle.

By the way, this is the most versatile rod I have ever used. I use it stream fishing, vertical jigging etc etc. Very strong rod as well. Keep that in mind. A guy doesn't necessarily need a different rod for EVERY application. Mor money for gas, bait, lures and jigs I say!lol

Have fun with the purchase!


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Thanks for the insight Jim. This wasted time called work, has me wrapped up all weekend. So no Walleye Expo for me. If it was at Canterbury, I could swing in after work. After my purchase, and field tests, Ill give a thumbs up or down. Redwing is calling.

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I don't think you can go wrong with one of Bill and Als rods.

Midwest Rod and Reel does a very nice job on their customs. I plan on getting rigged up with one for pitching and verticle this season. Plus I am considering a custom cat rod. Just have to decide what I want!

Bill showed me a rod that they are building for a guy. It has very little handle. The idea is that your in touch with more of the blank and the weight is reduced increasing sensitivity. Makes good sense to me. They can make just about anything a guy wants in any action or lenght with choices from tons of blanks. You can also choose the number of eyes and where to put the reel set on the blank for the best balance.

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If your in the Prior Lake area Justan give Bill a call he would be more than willing to show you some rods at his house. And maybe give you some ideas on the rod thats right for you. You cant belive the options you have with a custom builder. This weekend at the Walleye and Bass Expo we sold two women, two ultra-lite panfish rods and the one lady said "this is more fun than buying a bowling ball." Give him a call you will be glad you did!

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I agree with most of what Jim W has said, one thing I do to check a rod's sensitivity is I gently place the tip of the fishing rod on my kid's Adam's Apple and have them say Walrus and see if I can feal the vibrations.

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Well most of the rods I have are made from Hagens out of Mitchel, SD. Their rods have a St. Croix blank with Fuji guides/rod butts. IMO they are one of most sensitive rods out there for a little bit cheaper than a Gloomis rod. I would have to say that a Gloomis rod would be the optimum choice though. I do know that Hagens used to make their rods out of Loomis blanks but then switched over to St. Croix. I could tell the difference having a Loomis rod then getting a St.Croix the next year. The Loomis seemed like it had a Tad bit more sensitivity and they also seemed unbreakable.

FYI Hagens also makes the same exact rod for Scheels All Sports. I think its only their guide series of rods tho.

But between my Dad and I we have about 10 rods from them. And we haven't been disappointed one bit at all.

We have 2-7' fast action spinning rods that are great for casting/trolling cranks and using bottom bouncers. We got 2-6'6" x-fast rods. I really like them for jigging and casting smaller cranks. Then we got a 6' fast action tip with medium light flex for lighter jigs and a 5'10" that is awesome for using floats. And one 5'6" ultra light rod for bluegills and crappies.

As far as bait casting rods go, dad has a 6'6" x-fast tip for bottom bouncers and trolling for pike and I have a 7' fast action for bottom bouncers and casting for pike. Then last year I got a 7'6" med/hvy musky rod from them. That is a awesome casting rod for bigger lures and also works great on the planer board.

My favorite rod would have to be the 7' casting rod. I put a Abu 5500 C3 reel on there and its gotten a work-out over the last 4 years Ive had it. If I had to pick a favorite spinning rod of mine I would pick the 6'6" rod. I really like for vertical jigging for eyes since it has a soft tip and very nice backbone to it.

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Rino - Try that sensitivity trick with a broom handle. I bet you can feel the vibrations. Would you consider a broom handle a good tool to use as a sensitive fishing rod? I wouldn't either wink.gif Here are a few terms that can be used to describe a fishing rod...


Where most of the initial flex in a rod blank takes place. Fast Action rods will flex mostly in the upper 1/3rd of their length. Moderate Action rods in the upper 1/2 of their length. Slow Action rods flex along their entire length. Action is independant of material. That means that a rod with IM6 graphite, generation III graphite, or fiberglass could all have the same action.


Most often used to describe the durability of a rod. The ability to withstand impact or stress.

Scrim (For Jim W.)

Lightweight cloth, mat or fiber added to rod blanks to locate structural fibers and resin in a prepeg. Can also be used to contribute to hoop strength.


A function of stiffness and weight. Used to describe the "feel" of a rod.

So basically, when you start talking about a sensitive rod, you want a stiff rod (fast action) that weighs very little (Fuji titaniums, split grips, etc.) Of course, one could build the "ultimate" sensitive rod, but it's no good if your hands and senses are too dulled, or you don't know how to interpret the vibrations the rod is sending you!

I could go on and on, but I'll leave it at this for now...

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