Food Plot

[PerchJerker]

Howdy iffwalleyes.

Clover and alfalfa are perennials and are slow starters / slow growers compared to annuals. I've planted clover as late as the first weekend in June but I try to be planted by Memorial Day at the latest - cooler temps and more rain. The later I plant the worse my plots do until fall when the temps cool down.

Planting in the spring will give you more competition from weeds, but if you mow your clover that should really help control the weeds. I used to disc in the spring, let it sit for 2 weeks, then disc again to kill the weeds and plant. Now I usually disc in the spring and plant that same weekend, then mow and spray for weeds later in the year. Seemed to me that waiting for 2 weeks wasn't doing much to control the weeds. I think the first mowing in June is the most important, but I also mow in July and usually the first or second weekend in August. Three mowings per year gives me some dang good looking clover plots.

Your best bet for weed control would be to disc up the ground really good this spring, then let the weeds come back and hit it with Roundup a month later. And again a month later. And maybe one more month later, then plant in the fall without discing it agian. Less weeds, but that has you waiting until fall to get a food plot, and like I said clover and alfalfa are slow starters.

Not sure what annuals you want to plant in July or Aug, but that doesn't sound right to me. I plant brassicas in the spring and let them grow all year even though the deer don't touch them until October. I've also planted rye grass, rye grain, and oats in the fall. You don't want to plant too early - the deer prefer it when it's young and nutritious and growing, not when it's mature. I plant cereal grains in late August at my place. The first time I planted in the fall it was the first weekend in August and that was too early.

Hope this helps, and good luck. Food plots are way fun (and way way adicting).

[jlm]

It depends on what type of soil you have and how well prepared you want your seed bed. If you are breaking sod or have soil that lumps together, it will more than likely need to be worked up several times to get a nice even seed bed. A good seed bed makes all the difference in the world if you are dragging the seed into the ground. If there are chunks of sod left, you will have problems with germination. In your first year, I would suggest that you work the land all Summer and in the Fall, plant a rye and clover mix. The rye will attract lots of deer and the clover will come very well next Spring. This will also give the clover and advantage in the Spring as it will get a jump start on weed competition. Having a good seed bed by working it a couple of times is unrealistic unless you have sandy soil. Just my 2 cents. Good luck!

[iffwalleyes]

Hey guys just got back from the woods and did some soil testing up there. I bought one of those mossy oak biologic PH gauges. My soil tested on average 6.7-7.0 so according to what I have seem that is pretty good. I did sample some soil I was woundering if I should still send in a sample or two to Mossy Oak and have them do a analysis. I kind of think that I should so that if I need to add any chemical I know what to add and how much. Or do you think that with the ph levels I have I would be good to fertilze and plant?

[Mark Christianson]

Get the soil tests done.

As I was told by a food plot seed company, "Don't assume what your soil needs."

[iffwalleyes]

I was kind of think that probably would be the best. I actually have been getting the samples ready to ship after my first posting. I can always monitor it better after I actually know what I got.

[jlm]

I would still do the soil test, however, I would not send it to Mossy Oak, I would take it to your local Ag center where they will send it away for you. It more than likely will be cheaper, you are supporting the local economy, and you are establishing a relationship with the folks you should be buying seed and fertilizer from. I am very critical of most seed companies as they mark their products up very high. In most cases you can get the same seed for a fraction of the cost locally. Just my 2 cents. Good luck!

[iffwalleyes]

Oh well I already sent them in. $7.50 for a test I didn't think that was too bad maybe it is. jlm what do you uses for clover then do you used any of the blends out there or do you just get some from a seed company? Do some of the local seed companies have seed specifically for food plots?

[Mark Christianson]

I just talked with the local Ag place last week near our property.

They wanted $20 per sample to test.

Thats a bit pricy IMO.

[leechlake]

I don't see it posted on a previous page but in another thread on this topic Albert Lea Seed House was mentioned. I think their HSOforum can offer you a pretty good list to choose from from hay to food plot mixed.

[Beeber]

iffwalleyes:

The cost all depends on what you are testing for. A good soil test should include pH, OM (organic mater), N (nitrogen), P (phosphorus), K (Potassium), and for Brassicas S (Sulfur). I see you are from Valley City? If you are looking for a closer testing facility NDSU has a very good soil testing service. A good source for seed is Agassiz seed and supply out of West Fargo.

Regards,

[jlm]

I have given up on clover plots. Although the plots turned out lush and green and did very well, the deer in my area are not attacted to it. That is not to say it will not work in your area. Yes, a blend of clover varieties is your best bet. There are several varieties available at your local ag seed dealer or elevator. Take your soil sample to them and they will make you a blend as desired and per their recommendation. You can also get your standard pasture mixes which have a variety of seeds such as clover, alfalfa, etc. Get ready for this one all: ROUND UP READY ALFALFA! You heard me right, it will be available next year according to my ag guy. What a good deal, now weed control will not be a problem.

[Cooter]

Our rye from last fall is green and getting pounded right now!

[iffwalleyes]

Yep I know NDSU has testing ability probably should have went there since I am a Alum. but I already sent everything off. I talked to my Ag Buddy from college and asked him who I should contact he said to get ahold of Agassiz. They have a very helpful HSOforum and I got lots of info from there. I called them today and they gave me some good advice so I will be getting the bulk of my seed there their clover blends looks really good lots of good stuff. So I finally have my list narrowed down so I know what I am planting. I have 5 things I am going to try this year.

This is what I plant to use from Agassiz:

1. Bighorn Deer Mix

Ladino - 30%

DE Rape - 20%

White Dutch Clover - 15%

Medium Red Clover - 15%

Alsike Clover - 10%

Tetraploid Per. Ryegrass - 10%

This mixture is a special blend of selected legumes and grass designed to provide optimum forage quality for deer throughout the season. It should improve health and production of local deer populations, improve wintersurvival rates, attract deer to an area, and allow for better spring condition of deer.

2. Annual Food Mix

Hybrid Grain Sorghum - 50%

Hybrid Sorghum Sudangrass - 35%

German Foxtail Millet - 10%

White Proso Millet - 5%

3. One of their several Alfalfa blends

4. Turnip Seed

Then I am going to try some Whitetail Institute's NO PLOW. I have spot next to my stand that gets very little light so I am going to give this a try and see how it does.

Those are the main ones that I am going with this year. I will be taking pictures of the process and will post some of my results as things happen. I feel pretty good about my plan for this year. I think that it is really going to help out the herd in my area. Since most of the area is woods with little ag work going on in the area. My next year I will get a buck like Big Lake Ba$$ from last year.

Thanks for all the help guys.

[iffwalleyes]

Ok I got my soil results back today. I end up needing to add some lime. I should be able to add the lime and seed all at the same time should I. I am planning to till everything up and add my lime and some of the fertilizer and till it all again. Then I will add the rest of my fertilizer and the seed and drag it in. That should work shouldn't it?

[PerchJerker]

I wouldn't fertilize until you seed - you won't have anything planted that you want to benefit from the fertilizer. But you could lime whenever you want.

I lime and fertilize at the same time (while I have the spreader at each plot), which is right before I seed.

[jlm]

I agree. One other piece of advice, be sure to spread about twice the amount of seed needed if you will be dragging it in and not using a planter/drill. When using a drag, only about 50% of the seed germinates due to the uneven planting depth. Better to go overboard then not putting in enough! Good luck!

[iffwalleyes]

Right Perch I am planning to till, seed, lime, and fertilze all at the same time. So I guess I will till everything once. Add the lime till it in a second time. If necessary I will till one more time and then I will seed and fertilze and drag it in. I was planning to seed heavy but thanks for mention the tip though jlm. Does that sound like good plan?

[Mark Christianson]

Its the same game plan I have this coming weekend.

Bring on the treats!

Just got back from Menards with a load of lime and fertilizer.

[JoeT]

Going for a food plot myself this year. Had part of my 40 selective clear cut 2 years ago, getting a dozer in a few weeks to make two small fields thinking both between 3/4 to 1 acre each. Then going the tiller program (low budget). Thinking to dump lime in right away I have heard you always need lime anyways. Run over it with a home made drag behind the wheeler, not sure what or when to plant yet.

[PerchJerker]

IFFWalleyes -

When my plots were new and needed a lot of tilling I would till them, drag them to smooth them and break up the clumps, then let them sit for a week or two for weed seeds to germinate. After a week or two I'd spread my lime and fertilizer, disc LIGHTLY to get the lime and fertilizer in the top 1-2 inches of soil and uproot any weeds that were germinating, and hopefully not bring up too many new weed seeds. Then I'd drag the plot to smooth it and get a firm seed bed, then broadcast my seeds, then drag it lightly to cover the seeds.

Now that my plots are well tilled --- and I have a sprayer for weeds --- I disc the plot, then lime and fertilize, then drag to smooth and firm, then seed, then drag again, all in the same day. Much less labor, much faster process.

If I plant in the fall now I spray round-up in the summer, then don't even till the plot in the fall (don't want to bring up new weed seeds). I drag it to scratch up the surface and get rid of the dead weeds, then broadcast my seeds and fertilizer and drag over them.

jlm makes a great point about seeding heavy if you're dragging. although with brassicas you don't want to overcrowd them - with clover and oats it's not much of an issue.

Good luck.

[PerchJerker]

JoeT - make sure you get a soil test report or two before you lime -- you need to know what you're starting with to decide what you can / can't plant.

Some good ideas for starters are clover blends - whites, and reds if you have lower ph. Also, brassicas like turnips and rape and kale are annuals and grow really well and are heavily utilized by the deer in the fall, but for a relatively short period of time -- maybe during hunting season, maybe not during hunting season.

Clover and brassicas are small seeds that should be planted no more than 1/4 inch deep, which is ideal for a homemade drag. Good luck.

[jlm]

JoeT- You can probably get away with just planting your first years crops if you have dug up new soil that was once wooded. It is virgin soil so most plants will do well, including weeds. You might want to use the same method PJ spoke of earlier with tilling weeds as they germinate over and over. This will help with weed growth. If I were you I would till it many times throughout the Summer and plant a Fall attractant crop such as rye, oats, etc. Good luck!

[cyberamish]

Anyone have a good iidea on how deep I need to go to plant a field of sunflowers? Do I have to drill them or can get away with scratching up the surface down to 1/2" and dragging over them? Also does anyone have any experience with some of the "dwarf" sunflowers? I have seen them in catalogs and they say they grow to only 24" and still produce a good amount of seeds. I thought they might be perfect for drawing in some sharptails and/or ruffies and then I could disc them up in the fall and plant oats.