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Line Counter reels.


Agronomist_at_IA

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For rods I run a mixture of Jason Mitchell for leadcore, 5' and 10'6". For boards I use St. Croix 8' Eyecon trolling rods, and I will supplement that with two more Jason Mitchell 8'6" when I can use 6 rods.

My reels are Okuma Convector and Diawa Sealines. The Okumas have a better drag and a much nicer handle, the Diawas have a better clicker system.

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Sorry. I don't see them listed on your all encompassing list of fishing tackle posted with your name.

Did you forget them?

Fatz; you might have missed his previous post.

Yes I do list my gear under my handle that I currently use. It's something that all the members on a golf forum that i go on once in awhile started to do years ago. They started to put the gear that they use in the handle/signature area. This way people can see what a guy is using and PM him with questions on the gear or get the users opinion on gear that he is trying out or using.

Reason for this is that some guys on the golf forum have become total @$$hats over simple things.............like someone buying a $500-$1000 driver or set of clubs and someone states an honest opinion only to be berated and criticized over the review because its difference of opinion with other users. (OEM & custom stuff)

FYI, i have been PM'd by people asking about gear in my signature. It's actually nice that way, because i can give and honest opinion without getting jumped all over. So while it may be funny to you, it does save me some grief by not having to deal with the drama on the open forum of posting an opinion.

Not that bad of an idea (maybe) whistle

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I like my 20dx's I bought them from Jason Mitchell last summer after a trolling seminar. My other 2 l.C's are scheels stamped okumas. My mag's have better drags and power handles than the stamped scheels ones.

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I run all Diawa line counters ,,,got my drag upgrades from TunaToms and couldn't be happier with how smooth they are now ,,,,I will continue to buy Diawa reels that way if some thing breaks or parts get lost I have replacement parts ,,,I currently have 23 diawa line counter reels

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I mainly run all Diawa Sealines. I have 4 27's and 4 47's.

I do have a couple Accudepths that I don't run very often. My past experience is that the actually counter part breaks on the Okuma's and the gears shell out on the Accudepths. I finally shelled out one of the Sealines this year after 10 years or so.

Granted I do not troll nearly as much as I used to and my reels are a couple models behind but that is what I use. I bought the Accudepths to go on a couple of trolling rods I don't use unless I have 3 people in the boat which isn't very often so I figured I'd save a few bucks. Seems to be working so far.

mw

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Daiwa sealines are solid reels. I'm refurbishing a pretty dang old 900h (big game reel), I'm less familiar with the modern line counters, but I can only imagine they're made with the same quality and similar design.

FWIW, the only thing on my reel that is getting a "serious" upgrade is the drag. For the reel, the drag system is a little weak. Replacing the washer stack and utilizing carbon fiber washers + some quality drag grease will give this beast as smooth a drag as your lever-drag reels and increase maximum functional drag by ~75%.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
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    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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