Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

How To Remedy My "Old Gas" Situation In My Boat


TMF89

Recommended Posts

So due to motor problems (first trolling motor, then regular motor, then trolling motor again!), I barely took my boat out this year. The last time I put gas in it was in the late spring/early summer, and the tank is practically empty. I didn't do any winterizing (everything checked out two years ago, and with barely hitting double digits on run time this year I didn't think it was necessary). One thing I normally do though is run Seafoam through the gas tank, running the engine long enough to get Seafoam-mixed gas into the lines and engine. Didn't do that this year.

Basically the boat's been sitting for 8 or more months with an almost empty tank, with no maintenance. This same situation happened over the 2012-2013 winter, however I added Seafoam from the start, and added five gallons a week or so until the tank was full. Not optimal I know, but it seemed to work with no ill effects. Because of that, I'm tempted to do that again. However my main worry is that I can't run the boat right now (it's in our garage and bunny ears would get a lot of water all over the place), so if I added gas/chemicals, it wouldn't help the lines and the engine, just the tank. However since I know literally nothing about mechanics, that's about the only thing I can do without calling over a buddy or doing some research.

My main question is, do you guys think that'll be enough? I know enough about gas tanks to know that a big worry right now would be water/condensation, if I add a virtually full tank of gas, will that dilute the water enough to at least burn it out? I vaguely know of other issues that could arise with the gas lines/connections, but I don't really know what they are. Lol.

I know I could do things like pumping out the gas or actually getting into the engine, but both of those (again pretty much anything past adding gas/Seafoam) options would be out of my range of experience, and/or would mean I'd have to buy more equipment. Obviously that's a better option than letting my motor have a catastrophic failure, but still not ideal.

So what do you guys think? Add gas and Seafoam and let it burn all the bad stuff out in the driveway? Or is doing something else really that better of an idea? Thanks for the help guys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think what is done is done. Wait till spring, put some fresh gas in and see what happens in the driveway with the muffs.

There is almost no moisture in the air in weather like this winter. Condensation not an issue.

At worst, the carbs will be gummed up. If you are worried in the spring, siphon some gas out into a quart jar or an empty Jack bottle and see what it looks like. Should be clear and smell like gas. Should not be amber, cloudy, or separate into layers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm thinking 99 out of 100 times this is done, no damage occurs. Especially if you only missed one year and have done it regularly in the past (not doing it year-after-year is another story). Like they said above: get a full tank of new non-oxy (maybe throw in some Seafoam, Star-Tron, Stabil, etc. in case you don't get out much this year either) and let 'er rip. Just remember to change your plugs and check/top off your lower unit. Should be good to go. I like to add Star-Tron with each fill. That way there is always prepped gas going through the system and in the tank. I also like to do my maintenance in the fall because then I can just pull the boat out and go in the spring (i.e. late May this year cry )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with the others regarding the gas.

The other important part of winterizing a boat is replacing the lower unit lube... the risk is that you had a leaky seal last year, and now have water (well, ice by now) in the lower unit. When the water freezes (and if there's enough), you'll likely have a cracked lower unit housing.

If it's a "newer" motor.. you're probably ok.. but all it takes is a good run of fishing line wrapping around under the prop to do some damage.

marine_man

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've always just run as much fuel as I can usually around a 1/4 of a 24 gallon tank. Use AMSOIL fuel stabilizer in the fall. Then fill it up and use AMSOIL gasoline additive with injector cleaner in the spring. Been doing this for my current and other boats I've owned for years with no problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys! Sorry, I forgot I made this thread lol. Thanks for the advice! I'm glad I should be alright. One really dumb question though, what is non-oxygenated fuel? Is that the same as non-ethanol fuel? Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • My kid was eating in Beverly Hills and ran into this guy. Talked to him a bit and wished him luck in the game tonight.     
    • 🤔as a recovering machinist!🤣🤣that must make me a recovering welder!
    • As a recovering machinist, I can appreciate that.  If the spec is 0.001 - 0.0015, then clearly the correct measurement is 0.00125, duh…
    • I just figured that it is easy enough to just get a 3 bank so when the boat is not in use I can keep all 3 batteries charged. I have not bough a charger yet, maybe I will give it some more thought. Edit: After thinking this over, with the size, weight, and heat output of the charger (as well as the cost) I think it makes sense to just buy a 2 bank charger, I have a smaller charger i can use on the starting battery when the boat is sitting at home. Forgive me, for i am a retired engineer and I have to obsess over everything...
    • Congrats on the motor!  I think you’ll like it.   I can’t say much on the charger location but I’ve seen them under the lid in back compartments and under center rod lockers.  160 degrees is more than I expected to hear.   Curious why you’re opting for a 3 bank charger with a 24V trolling motor.  Unless you don’t feel you be running you big motor enough to keep that battery up as well?
    • I did buy an Minnkota Ulterra, thanks for the recommendations. I had a bunch of Cabela"s bucks saved up, which helped. Now i need to get an onboard battery charger. Where do you guys mount these things in your boat? The manufacturer I am looking at {Noco genius) says tht their 3-bank charger will run at 160 degrees, seems like a lot of heat in an enclosed compartment? Thanks for any input on this.
    • You're very lucky a troop of Sea Monkey's didn't carry you away.   
    • Wasn't terrible at a state park beach. Antelope island maybe.  I wouldn't recommend it as a beach destination tho.  Figured I was there, I'm getting in it.
    • The water looked and smelled disgusting with hundreds of thousands of birds sh*tting in there.  About as gross as the Salton Sea. When I duck hunted there I didn't even want to touch the water.
    • It's kinda gross with the algae in the summer but I got in it anyway.  Wanted to see the increased bouyancy at work.  You can kinda tuck yourself into a ball and you'll just float with your head above water.  When dry off you look diamond encrusted with the salt.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.