Cutting Melamine?

[deerminator]

Does anyone have any tips on making clean cuts? Never done it before and am looking at making a DIY set of laundry room cubbies for laundry baskets with a countertop over them. What I read online is that I should expect significant chipping even with a sharp circular or table saw blade unless I first score the cut lines with a box cutter and then cut part way through on each side. Or buy a special $150 blade made for cutting melamine. Any pointers based on experience would be appreciated.

[jentz]

Use masking tape,Tape the area of the cut,mark your line on the tape and cut.The side down will be the best looking cut cause the circular saw blade cuts into that side where the up side will be rough casue the circular saw blade is leaving the material causing the chipping.Masking tape stops that.CUT SLOWLY let the blade do the jod a decent plywood blade with many teeth.

[hawgchaser]

Ditto what jents said. The only difference when I cut it is that I put a circular saw in backwards and score the cut line on the finish side (after taping). Seems to reduce chipping since you're cutting wood rather that the melamine when you make your through-cut from the reverse side.

[PurpleFloyd]

What kind of equipment are you using to cut it? You certainly are not going to get a high quality cut from a circular saw. With the right blade, the right straight edge and a lot of time you might get a marginal cut at best.

If you have a good quality table saw and if you get the right blade you can get chip free cuts with a zero clearance insert and the proper feed rate. Unless everything is dialed in you will still get chipping on the bottom side. If you want to edge band it and want both sides clean you can cut first with the saw and then follow up with a jointer or a router and get a chip free surface. A panel saw with a scoring blade works and my CNC gives a great finish with the right speed and the right bit.

How are you finishing the exposed edges? Are you building face frames or iron on edgebanding?

[deerminator]

Thanks guys. I was thinking of something like the below. The DIY HSOforum doesn't talk about any of the finishing you mention PF, just cutting the boards with a sharp saw to avoid chipping if possible. It's basically cutting the melamine to the right specs and using drywall screws to build the cubes.

[crothmeier]

Check out a Freud Diablo saw blade if using a tablesaw. You should be able to pick up their Melamine blade for under $80 and they cut excellent. I've used their blades and router bits with great success.

[PurpleFloyd]

Thanks guys. I was thinking of something like the below. The DIY HSOforum doesn't talk about any of the finishing you mention PF, just cutting the boards with a sharp saw to avoid chipping if possible. It's basically cutting the melamine to the right specs and using drywall screws to build the cubes.

Gotcha.

In the end it all comes down to expectations. If your available tool is a skil saw then I would just buy a blade with as many teeth as you can get, make sure it is carbide, and then find a straight edge that you can clamp on the sheet to make sure you have a straight cut. Put the sheet on saw horses, tape if you want as pointed out above and make your cuts. If you are just going to paint the exposed edges then one thing you can do is get a belt sanding belt and cut a piece of melamine to fit inside of it(we call it a sanding block) and use that to ease the edges of the melamine. You can ease the edge enough to get rid of most of the chips and you should ease all the edges anyway as they are sharp.

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One note on Melamine- If you have any sheets that have any of the melamine skin sticking out past the particleboard core make sure you go over it with the sanding block I described earlier because that stuff is razor sharp and if you run your hand across it it will slice you and it will be deep and bleed a lot, possibly leading to stitches. Just be careful and respect the product.

Other than that you really don't need anything else and it is a fairly simple, straightforward process.

[Cheers]

Seems to me the meelamine is way over kill and will be $$$$ . Why not just use the pre finished shelving material that you can buy for cheap at places like Menards

[Down Deep]

If you have a plan and know what demensions your cuts need to be ask you supplier to cut the boards.

[deerminator]

Thanks Purple Floyd. Good advice. I would be using a circular saw and for sure would take your advice on how to cut and buying a new blade for the job. I agree with your expectations statement. I am thinking if the chipping is minimal and in spots you wouldn't readily see, that I could invest the quick work in touching it up enough for a laundry room. Also, I don't think any of the exposed sides would show per the plan.

Down Deep, I like that ideas. I had the local lumberyard make all the cuts for a soap box derby car I helped my son build a few years ago. Worked slick. But when I asked them about this project, they were kind of hesitant when I described what I wanted. They sell 12 foot long, 2 feet deep sheets of the stuff but said the saw they would use is more for making rough cuts on lumber where you don't need to be as picky. The depot at home shared the same thoughts. Still, I might consider asking if they had some scrap melamine around they could cut and show me what it would look like.

Cheers, melamine seems to be a pretty cheap option actually. I'm not sure its any more than shelving boards and its hard to find any as deep. I also asked the lumberyard about my options for wood and they said I could use a quality plywood and that they could cut that. So that may be an option too. I would just have to paint or stain.

[jentz]

Lumber yards will do rough cuts, when you bring in exact specs they shy away,Looks like 2 full shelves with 6 dividers I used a wormdrive skill saw so much I can make those 12 cuts before anyone can set a table saw.Any good carpenter can.Nice clean fits.With a straight edge its takes more time but will guide you if your not comfortable with a circular saw.I just did a full closet shelved like you show.The only problem I see you haveing is fastening either the top or bottom edge of the divider pannels.A kraig jig will do that.A good brad nailer.You'll see what I state when you get there.

[PurpleFloyd]

I think the best suggestion in the thread was the closet shelving.it is melamine anyway with a finished front edge.

With a circular saw and a straight edge that would be my first choice.

[hydro]

One note on Melamine- If you have any sheets that have any of the melamine skin sticking out past the particleboard core make sure you go over it with the sanding block I described earlier because that stuff is razor sharp and if you run your hand across it it will slice you and it will be deep and bleed a lot, possibly leading to stitches. Just be careful and respect the product.

Other than that you really don't need anything else and it is a fairly simple, straightforward process.

PF, Sounds like you've been there on that one. Me too.

[deerminator]

Ah, I see on the shelving now. Yes. I would buy the stuff with the finished front, top and bottom sides. Another option is hiring someone like PF or jentz. In fact my neighbor and contractor was just over at our house an hour ago looking over the work his crew did on repairs to our place from the Summer storms. I mentioned this project to him and he assures me he could have one of his cabinet pros build something similar for not much more than the materials would cost me if I wanted to do it right on my own. Not to mention the time. Not to mention what the end result might be for me. I know, I know. Of course he wants to sell me something but he's also been very honest with me and a great contractor. You pay more when you go with him but he gets it done right the first time and his guys show up when promised. So I am going to see what he and his cabinet guy propose first. Thanks for the replies.

[CAMAN]

I'll jump in and say if you do have some chips and gaps in areas you can use some white silicone caulk and run a small bead in each corner and run along it with the tip of your finger. Works pretty good at hiding mistakes.

[jentz]

Derminator I can t qoute your post.But if your not confident with your work and its in sight where you'd want it looking good.The contracter post above would be best.Even if they just cut your materials and made the deal you assemble.That would give you some do it yourself into it.and cut costs.I cant see it more than 15 minutes of cutting.Go for it!!

[deerminator]

Yeah, thanks. I will see what they say. I will ask them if they would also cut if for me. But if it's not much more, I may just hire them for the entire job and spend my time on other things I have the right tools and skills for. Especially if my contractor just refers them and I don't pay that markup.

The soap box car was a lot of fun. And the best part was the lumber yard had already made all the challenging (for me) cuts. I just provided them with the templates. So we could focus on assembling, tinkering and finishing. Things like finding the right steering wheel, customizing the seating area, painting, etc.

Thanks again for all the input. Will post on here what the finished result ends up being eventually.