2005 F150 5.4 3v Question

[fishnowworknever]

For anyone who has done this themselves or any Ford mechanic:

I'm trying to determine what this "tick" is from. I've got it narrowed down to 3 things I think it could be.

1. Exhaust manifold leak

2. Cam Phasers

3. Lash adjusters/Lobes

My concern is the cam phasers...I know I can do this myself but I'd hate to do the work and not fix the issue.

To anyone that is interested in the "noise"

[Alagnak]

Mine has the same sound and seems to be loudest on drivers side while walking by. I just assumed it was an exaust manifold leak so I'm also interested in the responces.

Been that way for a few years. Runs good so I haven't messed with it.

For anyone who has done this themselves or any Ford mechanic:

I'm trying to determine what this "tick" is from. I've got it narrowed down to 3 things I think it could be.

1. Exhaust manifold leak

2. Cam Phasers

3. Lash adjusters/Lobes

My concern is the cam phasers...I know I can do this myself but I'd hate to do the work and not fix the issue.

To anyone that is interested in the "noise"

[bassfshin24]

I have the same thing with my 2005. Not as loud but it's there.

[holmsvc]

I have a 2005 F150 as well.

A guy I know that traded his F150 in to the dealership was told that tick was cam phasers and they took over $1,000 off his trade in value.

[Scott K]

Is it worse hot or cold? Only cold, exhaust.

Warm engine, rev it up to 1200 rpm, does it go away?

If it goes away, its a cam phaser, if it gets worse, or doesnt get quiter, it is lash adjusters.

[fishnowworknever]

Doesn't matter hot or cold. It is louder once warmed up. Does not go away over 1200...

Thanks for the info there Scott.

I'm going to dig into it soon...I'll post updates.

[gquist]

Hard to tell from the video but it sounds like a lash adjuster but it might be a bad manifold leak also, look at the manifold and see if any of its mounting studs are broke off or if you see any black soot around the manifold to head area, the studs corrode off and they leak, big job trying to get in there and drill out the broke off studs, they can leak at the manifold to exhaust pipe connection also.

If the exhaust is OK pull the valve cover and inspect your rockers for loose roller wheels or clearance between the wheel and the cam, you will need to turn the motor over to check all of them as some of the valves will be open some time, if they check OK I would guess its the phazers.

[fishnowworknever]

gquist

I did look at the manifold and also had a Ford mech look at it...no evidence of an exhaust leak. Personally that's what I thought it was for the longest time...

So I'm going to take the valve covers off and check the rollers/lash adjusters and replace all if needed.

My theory is, if I'm in there already I should probably change out the phasers as well or do I leave those as is if I do find evidence of a bad lash adjuster or follower...? To me it makes sense to swap them out but you know the saying...if it aint broke...

[gquist]

Well, that adds a lot to the job, the timing cover has to come off if doing the phazers, there was a tsb on the phazers for 2004 and early 2005 trucks, if your truck falls into that catagory you should replace them while there,if not I would just fix the lifters, if there is no other problems seen when you get the cover off

[fishnowworknever]

Ok I got both cam / valve covers off. Question regarding the timing chain tension...since this engine uses oil pressure for the tensioners should there be some "slack" in the timing chain if I've had the truck sitting for a while and pulled the VCT solenoid? Some oil came out of the hole where the VCT solenoid sits...that made me think there was still a little pressure going to the cam phasers? I have no idea if that ties in with the tensioner.

(FYI - I have the "wedge" tool so I won't need to take the front cover off unless I need to replace the tensioners...)

[JOHNBIGDOG]

There should be little to no slack in the timing chain as there is a spring in the timing chain tensioners to pre load the chain. Also there is a ratchet mech to prevent the chain fron loosening up, so if that wedge tool slips out one hast to remove the front cover to set up the tensioners again.

You should be able to remove the bolt for the phazer and drop it down and out of the chain. If memory serves me right one of the bolts is lefty tighty. If you break it the dealer should have some.

[fishnowworknever]

Ok here is the "slack" i'm talking about.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Left side tensioner and arm?

[Scott K]

More then likely the hydraulic tensioner is bad, or you have a cracked chain guide.

[fishnowworknever]

So there should not be slack like shown in the video?

Is that front cover a p.i.t.a to get off?

Thanks for the responses.

[Scott K]

The front cover is easier to remove then the valve covers were to take off. The difficult part is making sure the timing chains are dead on during reassembling.

[Jeremy airjer W]

there should be no slack.

The hardest part will be getting the crank pulley off. After that once most if not all the accessories are removed its just nuts and bolts to get the front cover off. Make sure your timing marks are lined up before you start pulling any timing components. Its been a long time since I have done chains on one of these but I seem to remember a tool to hold the cams in the correct position? The chain will have two links that are a different color, these will line up with the marks on the crank and cam gear.

[fishnowworknever]

Thanks again for the information guys.

Hoping to have this wrapped up before the end of the weekend. I'll post an update and video of a, hopefully, much "quieter" running truck

[fishnowworknever]

All 12 lash adjusters are seized on the driver's side...

[fishnowworknever]

23/24 lash adjusters were seized. Scott K you nailed it.

[Alagnak]

So what would one expect in terms of damage or lost performance if they were left seized and not replaced?

[fishnowworknever]

Well I finished it up this morning. I don't think the truck has ever ran this quiet and smooth.

[fishnowworknever]

So what would one expect in terms of damage or lost performance if they were left seized and not replaced?

I can't really answer that question, but one would think it's possible for more "important" parts to possibly fail. For instance a cam follower / rocker arm...these are taking the full force of the cam lobe and valve stem with little to no "cushion" provided from the lash adjuster as the cam rotates.

Someone stop me now if I'm on the wrong track.