The Dorkfish Challenge build along...

[Neighbor_guy]

Ok, gill plates and eye definition carved in, that will be the last of the knife work...

Next its time to get the dremel back out with the jewelers point and hollow out the mouth to give a nice open mouth look, then cut in and fit the fins.

[Neighbor_guy]

So, after the mouth was opened up, I cut in for the fins. Some use a hot knife or burner for this step. I use a rotary saw blade on the dremel.

If you look close you will see that I draw in reference lines so that I can be sure the swim fins match up on either side. I also cut in the back and belly fins as well.

[Neighbor_guy]

I then dry fit the fins to be sure they fit and lie out where I want them to...

I also take the time to mark the bottom of the swim fins for depth. That way I can be sure to seat them to the same depth when they are glued up.

[Neighbor_guy]

I will spare you guys the glue up process. It involves 2 part epoxy glue, 5 min quick set locktite is what I use. You have to work quick and its not real conducive to photos.

When next we meet it will be time for sanding sealer. Until then I am going to track down some dinner and get these fins glued in...

[Dorkfish]

Hahaha yea I have the same problem with the 5 min stuff when I first used it I put way to much out and only got one fin in and the rest got hard on me so I had to toss it all out

[Neighbor_guy]

ok, here you go, I got the fins epoxied in and the excess cuts filled as well. Then 2 coats of sanding sealer. Normally I hang em by the tail for the sealer, but in this case its a wood tail, so I had to get a little creative on how I hung it.

More step by step progress tomorrow. Starting with hot lead in the morning...

[Neighbor_guy]

After the sealer has dried its time to get into the lead. If you haven't cut yourself open while carving and required stitches this is the step that will most likely get you. Use caution when working with hot lead. I have a constant reminder on my arm to the 3rd degree burns it can produce.

The first step is to find the balance point of the decoy. I use the edge of a triangle file once you find the point where the decoy falls to the side rather than front to back mark that point with a pencil or scratch mark...

This is the starting point for your lead bed. I then drill pilot holes for the fosner bit from the balance point forward to the leading edge of the swim fins...

I like to then open up the spaces with a sharp chisel and make sure the slot is good and clean.

[Neighbor_guy]

Now get your work space ready and begin to melt the lead. I use reclaimed lead from duck decoy anchors or sinkers from garage sales for lead. You can also get lead from internet sellers or salvage yards. Also be sure to have the area for your decoy to cool set up and ready.

Decoy ready for lead and set up for cooling. (notice the rattle chamber close by)

Hot lead in the pot. When using reclaimed lead you will get slag and scum on the top that will need to be scraped off.

Molten lead after skimming, it will be almost mirror like when ready.

Very carefully poor your lead into the cavity. I fill to about 1/3 then set the rattle chamber inside and then fill in on top of it. It took several attempts to get that step right. If the lead is to hot it will not cool quickly enough and the glass chamber will pop out like a cork. Be careful not to over fill the cavity or you will get spill over. This is where the burns and splatter come into play. You also want to leave space for your body filler to hide the lead cavity.

Now let every thing cool for about an hour. Its almost time to fall in the water...

[Neighbor_guy]

Sorry for the delay, it is Sunday, or as my little girl calls it "French cleaning day" so I am going between this project and laundry/vacuuming/etc. The joys of being a single parent eh?

So, we have given the lead plenty of time to cool off and set. Now to get the eye located and screwed in. First to the tank.

I use a large tote that I have filled 3/4 full of water and added a chlorine tablet to keep it from going green.

I balance the decoy on my finger then stick a push pin directly above that point. Its important that the decoy hangs level in the water. I can also use the push pin/string to get an idea of how it will swim, fast slow etc. (You can see the scar from the burn I mentioned earlier, careful with that hot lead)

Now for the part that drives the neighbors crazy. Out to the back yard pond fishing rod in hand... Everyone into the pool (click the pic for video)

looks like a swimmer...

[Neighbor_guy]

After swimming and drying the decoy I fill in the remaining space with a layer of the same 2 part epoxy that the fins are glued in with. Then lightly and gently file off the excess after its cured. Usually I wait a full 24hrs for that part, but today I went for it.

Then its time for the base coat of paint. I always use 2 coats of flat white as a base coat. So, done for today, I will let the base coat dry and cure.

Tomorrow if everything works out right I will get the next coats of paint on. Watch for details...

[Dorkfish]

Looks great. Noticed that the tail didn't break yet

[shamalex72]

Looks good.

One suggestion would be to run the fins into the lead cavity.

I just make a couple cuts (about 1/8 inch) to each fin, it will leave 3 "tabs". Once inserted into the lead cavity you will be able to bend the "tabs" against the wood. Once the lead is poured, the fins are locked in.

[Dorkfish]

Here I put in the eyes and added some last minute details later tonight the clear coat will be applied and than it will be all done

[PGF]

Those look great you guys! NG that looks like it is swimming even not in the water, and Dorkfish, i think the nords should be able to see that one from miles away!

[Neighbor_guy]

Looks great. Noticed that the tail didn't break yet

I still have several chances to drop it on the floor or table. The ones I break usually break during the painting process.

[merkman]

Very Nice!!!!

Where's that like button when you need it!!!

Good job guys.

.

[Dorkfish]

That's on Facebook where as MJ would put it the crackheads and pedifiles are at

[Dorkfish]

Well mine normally break on the power sander when they slip out of my hands and fly 10 feet through the garge and hit the wall.

[Dorkfish]

The dorkfishes are not looking too dorky...

Can you guys epoxy in some buck teeth or sumtin'

.

[Neighbor_guy]

PAINT!!!!

After the white base coat has been applied its time to decide what you want it to look like. In this case the request was made for florescent pink

Step 1 is to protect everything that needs to stay white. The fins and tail on this decoy will remain white until very near the end of the process. So they will be the first covered and the last to have the tape pulled.

Hot Pink is very poor at covering anything. Which is good for the later stages of this paint job, not so good a bright head... So in this case the head must be painted first. That will require some tape and paper. Because we want the rest of it to remain white for now...

That will require a tent...

Followed by two light coats of pink about an hour or so apart.

Like so.

[shamalex72]

The dorkfishes are not looking too dorky...

Can you guys epoxy in some buck teeth or sumtin'

.

Following this thread, and seeing this comment, it kinda lit a little fire in me to do some carvin'. I will post a pic when its done.

[Neighbor_guy]

I suppose I should also add that pink does not finish very hard. So once its dry, I cheat... and put a light coat of clear coat on it so the tape from the rest of the process wont pull off the finish.

[Dorkfish]

I really can't wait to see the finished product all this carving and showing of decoys makes me want to get that pontoon out and go spearing

[mrklean]

I really can't wait to see the finished product all this carving and showing of decoys makes me want to get that pontoon out and go spearing

Is it to early to ask for a roll call for the Winnie GTG

[Archerysniper]

Is it to early to ask for a roll call for the Winnie GTG

Nope,I can't wait as long as bowhunt doesn't show up