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chevy pickup to buy or no


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looking at a 2001 chevy 1500 silverado 5.3 motor auto trans. some rust. in our price range about 7000 bucks. has new front brakes and a fan belt. at a dealer we basically got financing and just have to say yes. 140,000 miles any horrible problems with these motor, tranny, heatercore everything works that we can tell want the truck for pulling a boat and ice fishing replacing a junky mini van we drive about 40 miles round trip for work. we know gas will be more but our van has cost us more in repairs than gas any thoughts

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Here is a list of things that were repaired on my 2000 GMC Sierra with the same motor. First line is the mileage. I bought it with 116K miles, so you can see what I fixed after that. Traded mine to the dealer for 5K 3-4 months ago.

33823 fix hood lamp, replaced front yoke (warranty), rear u-joint, replaced rear slip yoke, replaced left front output seal and shaft

49262 new fuel pressure regulator

54213 new tires

76359 recall #05068 for ABS front sensor corrosion per letter, inspect sensors and clean and seal mounting area

88973 new front right pinion shaft seal, front end alignment

95968 new left pinion seal, alignment

103233 replaced spark plugs, cleaned throttle body and mass air flow sensor, serviced transmission, replaced rear diff. fluid, changed tfr case fluid, recharged A/C, checked belts, check front end and shocks

105826 alignment, replace front brake pads and rotors, replace left front tie rod

105854 new tires

106532 replaced intake manifold gasket set and fuel pressure regulator

110515 Replace rear transfer case seal

118000 Replaced 4x4 switch on dash

120488 Replace the Water pump

140,200 Replaced Air Conditioner Accumulator and filled refridgerent

142,000 Replaced rear Rotors, brake pads, and Emergency Brake shoes. Also install new Monroe Reflex struts/shocks front and rear.

142,000 Driver side Emergency Brake rear cable replaced.

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I would hope you can do better than $7,000 but maybe not. What does the NADA or Blue Book say for pricing??? I would think a private owner purchase (with maintenance records) would be better. Bartman gives a detailed list of what he did to his so you can get an idea of what to expect. I do know that they did rust on the rocker panels, cab ends and around the wheel wells on the box. Having said that, if you want it get it and make it your own.

Mike

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Yes, my truck was fine. It was just getting to the point that I didn't want to be concerned about something major happening on a long trip.

On the way home from Vermilion last year my rear end was over flowing out of the overflow valve. I had the fluid checked and they said it looked clean (just made me nervous)

I only had a small bubble of rust on the rear wheel well, but to cover that up I ordered the Fender flares from e bay.

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I have a 2000 gmc with the same motor it has 371000 miles. I've put a rear end in , I'm on my third tranny first one at 154000 the second was a reman at 280000. Done two fuel pumps , a water pump couple of fuel pressure regulators, wore the driver side seat out. It's had the morning 5.3 tick sence 100000 miles. Just did both front hubs. I truly believe if you change the oil at 3000 miles this motor will not die. I have put every mile on this truck and it gets worked. I would not hesitate to pick another up.

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Mines a 01 GMC with 129K on it still rust free and no big issues since I bought it 5 years ago with 88K... Does need brakes soon and has a tick when first started but common and no apparent problem... Mines a daily driver and half my miles are pulling the boat or quad but it's paid for still looks sharp and reliable, I know at some point will need a tranny and fuel pump but cheap repairs over payments on a new truck.... Rest of the chevys in our family are all over 250K and still going strong....I'll keep mine for another 200K and replace it with another....

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • got this tackled today took about 3 hours to get both sides done. Didnt even get to use a torch....   Thought I was golden with just jacking it up and I could get to everything but no luck. Had to remove the entire axle hub and brake assembly to get to what I needed. Was a pain but still better then taking off the entire pivot arm.    Axle bearings were already greased and in great shape thankfully. Got both leaf springs installed and its ready for the road again.   Probably going to have my electric brakes checked, I am not touching anything with the brake drums. Based on what I saw it doesn't look like my electric brakes have been working anyway. Brakes are nice to have if its slippery out
    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
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