Need your help! Troubleshooting battery / electric start 35HP Evinrude.

[mr_jman]

I recently bought a 35HP Evinrude tiller. I believe it is a 1980.

I went and bought a new marine cranking battery that has about 600-650 cranking amps. Well I charged the battery and went out and the motor started but when I went across the lake it seemed to run at only about half the power with the tiller cranked all the way. Only 12 mph, but i went across the lake and stopped to fish. After about 30 minutes I wanted to move and I couldn't get the motor to fire back up for about 15 minutes. It finally fired and ran at full speed (about 28 mph) back to the access. I loaded it up took it home and charged the battery.

Tonight I went out and the motor fired up on the first try at the access but I throttled down the motor to shift into reverse, and it died. I tried restarting with electric start and it never fired back up. SO I went home...

I did some testing back at home and noticed that after I recharged the battery, the motor started up quickly. I killed the motor and did the test a few more times and it started well. I threw it back on the charger and it showed that the battery was already down to about 25% or so.

So, do I need some type of onboard charger? Do I need a better battery? Could I have motor issues... (With the weird performance I experienced going across the lake?) Any thoughts or information would be appreciated!

- Just a note I have gas from last year still that I put Stabil in. I'm guessing this may have some role in it too..

[kerryd15]

If you disconnect the battery from the motor is there a spark? Sounds like there is a draw on the battery that's not normal. What else is wired to this battery. If there is a draw or short, try to determine if its the engine or other boat wiring. Is there a fuse panel? Have someone with an amp tester watch while you remove one fuse at a time.

[mr_jman]

The only thing I run on the battery is the motor. I just run the + and - wires directly to it and tighten them down with wing nuts. No fuses, no panels, no other equipment.

[Surface Tension]

You probably fouled a plug and the reason for the 12 MPH.

Being a new motor to you, you might not be starting it the way it wants to start.

First off don't start the motor out of the water or hooked up to water. The impeller is rubber and when started out of water it be like you getting a floor burn on your knees while skidding across a hardwood floor, yes even for a very short time it isn't good to do either.

Also the water and air temps are cold so it'll take some warm up at a high idle and possible feathering the choke to keep it running.

To ensure your not flooding while not in use or when traveling down the road, disconnect the fuel line to the outboard when your done for the day.

Connect when you get the boat in the water and the outboard trim down. Open the vent on the remote tank and squeeze up the primer bulb. Full choke and then turn over the engine. When it starts take off the choke but as said earlier you might have to bump the choke on and off to keep it running at high idle.

After its warmed up a minute or so you should be good to go.

If you get the low speed again, its time to pull the plugs. The cooler to the touch plug is the one that fouled. Replace it with a new one. Eventually you'll get the hang of how it wants to be started. If this continues and your removing the fuel line like suggested then you might need to look into it further.

As far as the battery, what type of charger are you using.

For the cranking battery any automatic 12 volt will work.

Note that it'll always take a charge but taper down shortly even with a battery that is close to fully charged.

[jentz]

There could be a few different problems.First does the motor have aftermarket starter installed.That year came both ways, someone may have installed a starter with out a stator,so there is no recharge of the battery while running(I've seem many)Weak coils could do that once the motor is warmed.The running full out but only 1/2 speed could be??Carb?But then you say that happened only once.shifting and dieing is Carb adjustment.There is only low speed adjust hispeed is fixed.The lowspeed sounds like it could be opened 1/4 turn at a time start and see what it does.Can you afford a shop to go over the motor?

[BoxMN]

Are you using 100% NEW gas? I assume so, but just saying, bad/old gas can cause starting/idling problems.

Cleaning/rebuilding carb on that motor is easy and cheap, and rebuilding fuel pump (basically just a diaphragm) is pretty easy and cheap too. If it is the same as my 96 was, and I am pretty sure it is same basic motor. Hardest part was removing the stater to get at carb. Once I rebuilt carb and fuel pump it started and ran GREAT!

Good luck!

[mr_jman]

Thanks for all the replies. I will certainly take all that advice and use it.

I went and returned the battery I had bought and went with a 1000 cranking amp battery. The motor starts right up on the push of the button. I want to get it out and test it over a sustained amount of time and use to see how the charge holds up.

- The charger is just your basic everyday battery charger with a 10A fast charge and 2A trickle charge setting.

- I believe the electric start was factory installed and not an add on after.

I just got so used to how my 1979 Johnson 15 H.P. ran and how quickly it responded to full throttle shortly after letting it warm up. I will keep tinkering with the start and adjusting the rich/lean mixture if I need to.

I could afford taking it in but I'm trying to do that as a last resort after trying everything else first. I also likely wouldn't have it back by opener if I get it in now. The previous owner took good care of it and said it started and ran very well for him (take that for what its worth).

[Ufatz]

I get the sense you are misunderstanding the role of the battery hooked to your system. Returning the one battery and going to one with higher cranking amps was wasted time money and effort. If the motor will not crank and fire with the battery you had there is a problem with the MOTOR, not the battery.

Also, if you will not take it to a qualified mechanic,at least get ALL the old gas OUT of the system....out of the motor, the fuel line and the tank. Fresh gas, clean plugs, freshly charged battery might just make things happier for you. Also, check all fuel connections AND electrical connections. But quit worrying about having a BIGGER battery! LOL.

Oh, and not to be a smart asp, but when you get a change read up a little bit about outboard motors, how they work the different systems etc. Lot of exciting knowledge out there.

[mr_jman]

Thanks Ufatz. The main reason I created the thread is because I don't know much about electric start motors (never had one before). I know and use deep cycle batteries for my electronics and trolling motor, but I am completely new to the electric start for my main motor.

Spending the time to change the battery may be defeating the purpose, but the bottom line is I will need one for the motor so why not get a really nice battery that will hopefully last a long time and comes with a FREE replacement plan if something goes wrong?

I will take it to a good mechanic if I keep having problems after trying everything that has been suggested. (I went and bought fresh gas for it tonight!) I just REALLY want to fish for opener and if I need to get the motor in then I will take it somewhere to get a proper tune-up! Just figured i'd try to save money where I can, and if its a simpler fix then taking it to a mechanic which around here is about $80/hr just to look at it!

Still, thanks for the advice as I would like to get a better understanding of how to make the motor as efficient/clean running as possible.

[delcecchi]

As I recall, motors of that vintage didn't put out much charging current, a few amps.

[BoxMN]

Mr_jman, don't be afraid to rebuild the carburetor yourself instead of taking it in. It really is a pretty simple process that can be done with normal hand tools most people have. Plenty of people here to help you as well. I made a mistake the first time I did mine (put float in upside down, doh!) and folks here helped me figure out the prob. The kit costs about $15 maybe give or take, or you could try just cleaning it, but when you have it apart I figure why not "rebuild it" which is not much different than cleaning it, in terms of effort.

Maybe wait until after opener now, but give it a shot, a motor that old is prolly in need of a carb rebuild anyway The fuel pump is also easy to do with normal hand tools, but you just need to be careful reassembling it as there are tiny parts, but it is not hard either. I am not a mechanic and I was able to do both with my pontoon tied to a dock while wearing waders the day before opener haha!

[delcecchi]

Also a couple of things. First, you can take pictures as you take stuff apart so you know how it goes back together. Second, the service manuals are quite affordable on the internet from sources on the bay.

[BoxMN]

Also a couple of things. First, you can take pictures as you take stuff apart so you know how it goes back together. Second, the service manuals are quite affordable on the internet from sources on the bay.

Del, the pics I took during it helped me out, to find I had float in upside down Good idea!