First time winterizing!! Help!

[Hoffer]

aanderud

Very interesting! and I appreciate the help and advice. I am sure this will help others on this thread as well.

I guess my next question is what does it mean to just change these over?

My mind just doesnt grasp the concept of what these bearings really are etc..

Is it just a matter of screwing off the old hubs and bearing and screwing on these new ones??

Sorry if this question may seem very basic - but I am simply not mechanically inclined at all.

Thanks again

Hoffer

[Hoffer]

One other question on winterizing.

when it comes down to "fogging" I have usually hooked up the hose and put the mufflers on the engine and started up the engine so it is running. I would then spray the fogging agent in to the carb until it shuts down the engine.

Is this necessary? Could I instead spray some fogging agent into each of the cylinders and then just turn over the engine a few times to distribute?

By the way...the engine is a 2003 Merc 75HP 2 stroke with the 3 cylinders.

Thanks

Hoffer

[fishersofmen]

I'm wondering if I should leave the trim up (with the support bar) or if I should drop the motor all the way down? I will be storing the boat outside and was thinking I should drop it down so the chrome shafts that push the motor up aren't exposed all winter.......

[delcecchi]

I'm wondering if I should leave the trim up (with the support bar) or if I should drop the motor all the way down? I will be storing the boat outside and was thinking I should drop it down so the chrome shafts that push the motor up aren't exposed all winter.......

You want to drop the motor all the way down so there is no possibility of water/snow/ice getting in the exhaust or water passages and cracking something when it freezes. Also all the cooling water will run out that way.

[Kyhl]

Yes, all the way down. You want to store any hydraulic cylinder in the fully in position for the reason you mentioned. You don't want the shaft exposed to elements where it can become pitted.

[h8go4s]

In my case, I drop my boat off at a storage site and I don't want the motor snagging on something when they move it around, so I tilt it up. I've never noticed a problem with corrosion on the shafts. If you're worried about it, just squirt a little grease on a paper towel and wipe it onto the shafts.

[delcecchi]

In my case, I drop my boat off at a storage site and I don't want the motor snagging on something when they move it around, so I tilt it up. I've never noticed a problem with corrosion on the shafts. If you're worried about it, just squirt a little grease on a paper towel and wipe it onto the shafts.

That would be a concern to me if it is stored outside. Inside, no problem.

[Tom7227]

Hoffer,

I live in White Bear. If you drive over to my house I will show you how to repack your bearings for only $79.

Tom

[Hoffer]

Tom

Thanks for the offer!

Do you ever get over to Maple Grove?

If so...I would bump that up to 100.00

[aanderud]

aanderud

Is it just a matter of screwing off the old hubs and bearing and screwing on these new ones??

Hoffer

Hoffer, the turbo lube hubs I showed a picture of above with the 90wt oil in them are full hubs. They're around 50-55 bucks each but the benefit over paying someone to repack your bearings is that you will never have to pack bearings again. You just fill these with oil now and then.

To install them, you pull your wheel off, pull the hub off of your axle (there's a nut holding it on, under your dust cap or bearing buddy), put this hub on your axle and install the spindle nut and threaded oil cover, and then install your wheel. It's really an all in one solution, you can't just swap these in for your bearings on your current hubs. Google "turbo lube hubs manual" and there's a manual on tiedown.com that shows on page 5 just how easy a hub is to install. It's probably literally less than 15 minutes per side including tire removal and reinstallation.

Here's a screen shot.